Broken Spring Hanger!

[Gyro Gearloose]

Brian (Country Campers) did suggest boxing the hangers as you have sketched. I think Jim (MidwestCamper) mentioned something similar. To me . . . this is the leading contender for reinforcement. I am wondering whether this or the V clip would offer more strength. Plates across the ends would certainly be easier to weld.

I would still like to get some attachment up the sides of the square tube spacer . . . since either V clips of box ends to the hanger still attaches everything to the lower surface of the square tube.

Rob

Rob,

Here is a quick conceptual drawing of what I think you are saying, that will also weld to the 2x2" tube. This is easy and provides a lot of options and strength (??). If others have input or like the concept let me know and I can try to draw it up in CAD when I get back from NorCal Rally. I would need to modify the design slightly for my rig because i don't have the 2x2.



Pat

[DougW9876]

Rob,

Here is a quick conceptual drawing of what I think you are saying, that will also weld to the 2x2" tube. This is easy and provides a lot of options and strength (??). If others have input or like the concept let me know and I can try to draw it up in CAD when I get back from NorCal Rally. I would need to modify the design slightly for my rig because i don't have the 2x2.


Pat

That is a great idea, I think it would make a very strong connection.

The problems I see with the current hangers is that they are made of 2 pices of realatively thin steel, they should be a U shaped single piece welded to the bottom of the frame. The sideways forces then would not be working against a weld joint but against solid steel. The other problem comes from the spring mount holes being so far from the frame which gives the springs a lot of leverage against the spring hangers, these holes should be as close to the trailer frame as possible.

[Dentil]

Rob,

Here is a quick conceptual drawing of what I think you are saying, that will also weld to the 2x2" tube. This is easy and provides a lot of options and strength (??). If others have input or like the concept let me know and I can try to draw it up in CAD when I get back from NorCal Rally. I would need to modify the design slightly for my rig because i don't have the 2x2.



Pat

That's what I like about this forum. I was anticipating that with "the masters" discussing this, sooner than later there would be a blueprint or PDF for the proper repair of this problem area. Anticipating the final "service bulletin". Thank you.
Dennis

[Cate&Rob]

Rob,

Here is a quick conceptual drawing of what I think you are saying, that will also weld to the 2x2" tube. This is easy and provides a lot of options and strength (??). If others have input or like the concept let me know and I can try to draw it up in CAD when I get back from NorCal Rally. I would need to modify the design slightly for my rig because i don't have the 2x2.



Pat

Hi Pat,

Thanks for volunteering to do the CAD drawing (I was kind of hoping that you would ). I can't "computer draw" as accurately as you can, but I will sketch up some ideas and post them for further discussion. I encourage others to do this too. This is heading towards coming up with a viable solution to a proven problem . . . as Pat & I and others did with sorting out the "right" spring combination for a 303.

Part of the problem is the coroplast. In my case it has been moved to the bottom of the 2" spacer and in most cases it fastens to the bottom of the frame rail on the same plane as the hangers. So welding or fastening cross bracing above the top surface of the hanger (which is the bottom surface of the frame rail) becomes a problem.

DougW9876 - The hangers are U shaped and welded to the underside of the frame on four sides of the top plate of the U. In the pictures of broken hangers, you can see the top section of the U still welded to the frame.

I have asked LCI for more info on their "V Clip" . . . nothing received so far.

Rob

[DougW9876]

...DougW9876 - The hangers are U shaped and welded to the underside of the frame on four sides of the top plate of the U. In the pictures of broken hangers, you can see the top section of the U still welded to the frame...

Rob

As is obvious, I did not see the other piece still on the frame but, dang, they must have burned the heck out of that thing while welding for it to weaken that much. I have not seen a U shaped spring hanger break like that before.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Hi Pat,

Brian (Country Campers) did suggest boxing the hangers as you have sketched. I think Jim (MidwestCamper) mentioned something similar. To me . . . this is the leading contender for reinforcement. I am wondering whether this or the V clip would offer more strength. Plates across the ends would certainly be easier to weld.

I would still like to get some attachment up the sides of the square tube spacer . . . since either V clips of box ends to the hanger still attaches everything to the lower surface of the square tube.

Rob

Hey just wanted to make sure I'm not taking credit for others that had the same idea of boxing in the hanger so making sure "Country Campers" and " MidwestCamper" get the credit due that have the similar train of thought of boxing the hangers. I have seen a lot of good ideas in the thread. I'm just trying to take my thoughts and the thought of other in the thread and try to take it to a solution based on every ones input. So all thoughts and input are welcome. If we start to go off the rails the we will adjust.

So that's my disclaimer...

Pat

[Gyro Gearloose]

Hi Pat,

Thanks for volunteering to do the CAD drawing (I was kind of hoping that you would ). I can't "computer draw" as accurately as you can, but I will sketch up some ideas and post them for further discussion. I encourage others to do this too. This is heading towards coming up with a viable solution to a proven problem . . . as Pat & I and others did with sorting out the "right" spring combination for a 303.

Part of the problem is the coroplast. In my case it has been moved to the bottom of the 2" spacer and in most cases it fastens to the bottom of the frame rail on the same plane as the hangers. So welding or fastening cross bracing above the top surface of the hanger (which is the bottom surface of the frame rail) becomes a problem.

DougW9876 - The hangers are U shaped and welded to the underside of the frame on four sides of the top plate of the U. In the pictures of broken hangers, you can see the top section of the U still welded to the frame.

I have asked LCI for more info on their "V Clip" . . . nothing received so far.

Rob

Hey Rob,

Maybe I'm confused? I was thinking that the coroplast was at frame level. Is yours special, or do all the units with the 2x2 have coroplast at the bottom of the 2x2? Even if a cross member needed to to be moved lower this would still be stronger than the alternative x-Factor (I may be wrong) because of the boxing.

FYI, If I go quiet for a few days, it might be because I will be leaving for Mt. Lassen on Friday. Also trying to get ready to go.... "I'll be back"...(said with an X California Governor accent).

Pat

[Cate&Rob]

Hey Rob,

Maybe I'm confused? I was thinking that the coroplast was at frame level. Is yours special, or do all the units with the 2x2 have coroplast at the bottom of the 2x2? Even if a cross member needed to to be moved lower this would still be stronger than the alternative x-Factor (I may be wrong) because of the boxing.

FYI, If I go quiet for a few days, it might be because I will be leaving for Mt. Lassen on Friday. Also trying to get ready to go.... "I'll be back"...(said with an X California Governor accent).

Pat

Hi Pat,

The 2" square tube covers the whole lower flange of the I beam, so there is no where to attach the coroplast except to the underside of the square tube, just like it was to the underside of the frame rail, with cutouts around the spring hangers. There is a lot of loose wiring running just inside the frame and spacer (particularly on the curb side), above the coroplast, so welding in this area would require caution.

Above the spring hangers, there is an I beam flange brace welded between the flange and the web. I'm wondering if this surface could be used as an upper weld attachment for a reinforcement that came down over the hanger on the outside. Ideally the spring eye bolt would go through this reinforcing plate . . . but that would require custom length shoulder wet bolts and would screw up the Correct Track. Maybe we don't need the Correct Track hex adjusters? and the reinforcing plate welded to the frame above replaces them . . . then, the bolts will fit .

Rob

[Gyro Gearloose]

Hi Pat,

The 2" square tube covers the whole lower flange of the I beam, so there is no where to attach the coroplast except to the underside of the square tube, just like it was to the underside of the frame rail, with cutouts around the spring hangers. There is a lot of loose wiring running just inside the frame and spacer (particularly on the curb side), above the coroplast, so welding in this area would require caution.

Above the spring hangers, there is an I beam flange brace welded between the flange and the web. I'm wondering if this surface could be used as an upper weld attachment for a reinforcement that came down over the hanger on the outside. Ideally the spring eye bolt would go through this reinforcing plate . . . but that would require custom length shoulder wet bolts and would screw up the Correct Track. Maybe we don't need the Correct Track hex adjusters? and the reinforcing plate welded to the frame above replaces them . . . then, the bolts will fit .

Rob

Rob,

So it sounds like we only need the hanger end caps to go above the hanger on the outside of the frame so the coroplast is not affected.

Post #1 pic2 shows the frame pretty well and the frame bracket you are talking about. Having a piece of metal welded to the brace that came down to the spring eye bolt is something I think we don't need (maybe I don't understand what your saying). This would also open another can of worms with the correct trac. Gets away from KISS and I think it will be putting material where it's not adding any added value. But I will give it more thought. I think the end caps in an Lshape going up outside of the frame to the frame brace. This would be way stronger than the V-clip and it would help transfer energy up to the frame. Not as well as both sides up to the frame but far better than what is there. One other added bonus the welds for the end caps would be one one of the easiest vertical welds.

I'm also trying to see if there may be a viable bold on solution that is not to complex make and install.

So in my mind what we are trying to solve for is trying to keep the legs of the hangers from flexing back and forth and transfer that flex energy to the frame where it will have the least amount of flex. If the hangers are more ridged, then energy will be more in the springs and that kind of steel we want to flex. Just kind of thinking out loud here.

Pat

[J&G garage]

Pat I’m looking forward to discussing this with you next weekend. I have been pondering this for a long time and really like the V clip idea over other forms of hanger reinforcement. It seems eliminated a lot of issues that some other reinforcement methods bring.