Another Anserson Hitch question

[minnow101]

In my discussions with Andersen, they have stated it is ok to cut the holes. On the newer GMs the holes are all under the flat plate but the forward holes encroach on the tubing attachment points. They even sent me pictures. Based on the dialog here, I assume the picture with holes is a Ford and the one with the pucks just outside the hitch is a RAM. It is clearly no a newer GM...

As an Anderson owner myself, I've defended this hitch in various forums I belong to. As anyone that either owns one or has researched buying one can attest too, there is no lack of detractors & nay-sayers(mostly from those that have never owned one, I might add)

If and when it becomes common knowledge that Anderson is giving the Okie Dokie to removing 2" of supporting material from each side of the base the hitch, I can just imagine the hue and cry this will create from those folks. Much more importantly, I would need more assurances than a company rep. just verbally telling me it's OK. Have they done this and has this been tested in real world towing circumstances. Finally, if this is a great idea, why hasn't Anderson offered for sale this modified hitch directly from the factory.

I'm certainly no engineer and this modification may be perfectly fine. From a common man perspective, I'm just a skeptical when you start with a 35 pound hitch and start drilling large holes and removing material from it. It wasn't that long ago that Anderson added additional bracing to this hitch, but now it's OK to drill out (2) 2" holes in the base?

[johndeerefarmer]

As an Anderson owner myself, I've defended this hitch in various forums I belong to. As anyone that either owns one or has researched buying one can attest too, there is no lack of detractors & nay-sayers(mostly from those that have never owned one, I might add)

If and when it becomes common knowledge that Anderson is giving the Okie Dokie to removing 2" of supporting material from each side of the base the hitch, I can just imagine the hue and cry this will create from those folks. Much more importantly, I would need more assurances than a company rep. just verbally telling me it's OK. Have they done this and has this been tested in real world towing circumstances. Finally, if this is a great idea, why hasn't Anderson offered for sale this modified hitch directly from the factory.

I'm certainly no engineer and this modification may be perfectly fine. From a common man perspective, I'm just a skeptical when you start with a 35 pound hitch and start drilling large holes and removing material from it. It wasn't that long ago that Anderson added additional bracing to this hitch, but now it's OK to drill out (2) 2" holes in the base?

As a "farm boy engineer" if I was going to drill two holes in it then I would be TIG welding additional bracing along both sides of the hole for added support

[JonBoy]

The Andersen rep I talked with said the pucks in the F350 are covered and to secure safety chains to hitch support bars. Attachment to truck bed seems better, but in actuality, is potential hitch failure caused by hitch collapse or detachment from gooseneck ball?

[BabyBober]

Chains are thought of as a safety mechanism if the trailer pops off the ball, that is why a traditional 5th wheel doesn't need them.

[johndeerefarmer]

Chains are thought of as a safety mechanism if the trailer pops off the ball, that is why a traditional 5th wheel doesn't need them.

What's your point? The Andersen is unconventional and has a ball.
Mine will have safety chains attached to the safety loops on my B&W gooseneck. Attaching them to the Andersen hitch is not correct or adequate. Doing this would be the same as attaching your safety chains to the 2" stinger that you bumper pull with instead of the frame.

[929erfan]

I for one have a b&w turn over all in my ram, and use safety chains attached to the hooks in the bad that go they to the hitch underneath!!! Although I don't worry very much about trailer hopping off the ball due to weight I do attach safety chains to hooks that came with hitch in bed! Better safe than totaled!!!!!

[BabyBober]

What's your point? The Andersen is unconventional and has a ball.
Mine will have safety chains attached to the safety loops on my B&W gooseneck. Attaching them to the Andersen hitch is not correct or adequate. Doing this would be the same as attaching your safety chains to the 2" stinger that you bumper pull with instead of the frame.

HI: I was responding to JonBoy and his comment on the safety chains. You are correct the Andersen Hitch is unconventional and in most states does not require chains. I am glad you plan to use safety chains with your B&W goosneck as you stated. Extra safety is always a good thing.

[Stormin' Norm]

Thought I would share my very recent experience with getting a new Andersen 3220 hitch to pull my new Reflection 303RLS (just picked it up Friday!) with a 2017 Ford F350, long bed with factory 5th wheel/gooseneck prep kit installed. It has been quite the experience for me, and to some extent perhaps, for Andersen as well.

I had previously posted in another recent thread, but thought I would move the discussion over to this newer one. For the record, here are links to couple other Andersen discussions (I'm sure there are more):

http://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/9888-Which-hitch-do-I-want

http://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/showthread.php/4173-Andersen-hitch

My communications with Andersen have been with Jason Green. His name and contact info were provided by someone in one of the earlier threads, but here they are again.

[email protected]
(208) 681-2251

For me, the only real solution to adding safety chains is that they must be attached to structure of the truck, and not rigged around or under the hitch frame itself as suggested by others. Here are my key findings, which I know may be duplicating some things others have observed. Putting them all down here for completeness.

1. Holes must be drilled in hitch base plate in order to provide access to puck locations where safety chain attachment fittings are installed. In this example, the hitch is installed with the raised hitch ball closest to the rear (tailgate) of the truck, and the holes are also drilled in plate to align with rearmost puck positions in the truck.

2. Only Reese Elite Series kit fittings will work with this modification (e-trailer P/N RP30137). The Curt kit (e-trailer P/N C60609) will not work, since the chain loops are elongated and will interfere with the sides on the base plate channel.

3. The Reese fittings are not perfectly circular, and are 3 inches at widest point.

4. In order to avoid requiring extremely precise hole locations so the that hitch will fit over gooseneck ball and two 3-inch wide Reese chain fittings at same time, a 3.25” diameter hole was used to allow for any small hole placement offset. This also provided for avoiding metal-to metal contact between base plate and chain fitting once hitch was installed. Andersen rep. stated this diameter hole will be fine for structural integrity of the hitch. (I admit I had an out-of-body experience here, for me, in taking this at face value, but lengthy and detailed discussions with Jason led me to make the leap of faith and drill the holes. Also as noted by someone above, I would add a welded reinforcing ring around the holes, and suggested this to Jason, as he did say they are looking at a design for this situation.)

5. From measurements made on centerlines of puck holes in the bed of my truck, with the hitch installed and centered, the correct locations for placing the hole centers are 2-3/4” from the sides of the rails, and 9-7/8” from the rearmost end of the base plate. (Andersen initial sketch measurements were 10-3/8” from the rearmost end of base plate.) ***MAKE YOUR OWN MEASUREMENTS AND VERIFY!*** Andersen gave me a drawing they prepared from measurements they made that showed the 10-3/8" number, but that simply did not align for me.

6. In the currently provided Andersen optional safety chain kit, P/N 3230, neither the snap hook nor the shackles provided will fit into the opening in the Reese safety chain fitting. Andersen subsequently provided me with larger shackles that did fit.

I ended up drilling the holes myself after marking, center-punching, drilling a small pilot hole, and using hole saw with oil. Then filed smooth the edges. The drilling did damage the coating around the edges of the holes, so one thing I might have done differently was add tape over the area before drilling to help minimize this.

Here are two photos showing end result; I have more showing intermediate steps, and chain kit incompatibility if requested.



So, as brand new, first time 5'er owner, with a grand total of about 40 miles towing it home from dealer, practicing maneuvering, and going through some gyrations backing it into my rather complicated driveway (that required me to remove the rear Ground Control 3.0 leveler jacks to clear my street curb, LOL), I have no other reference point to compare the ride to... but I had no issues on fairly smooth roads and some pretty high-angle backing and turning moves, and feel pretty good about it. Time will tell, I guess.

Sorry for lengthy post.

[JonBoy]

Stormin' Norm, That is a good post to PO a potential Andersen hitch buyer. Why haven't they solved the issue. I'm in Minnesota and from what I understand one of the states requiring safety chains, which I plan to use regardless.

[Cate&Rob]

Stormin' Norm - Great write-up ! With the hitch ball aft of the truck axle and the adapter on the trailer pin as shown in your picture, are the rear wings of the pin box not getting really close to the tailgate ? From your picture, it looks like you are towing from nearly as far back as my slider hitch would be in the aft maneuver position. Just curious . . .

Rob