4-Seasons Protection Package (unheated 2500RL cargo bay)

[Scout27]

Steve,

While looking at your pictures in your twisted line thread, I saw the pic of your 2" duct to the underbelly. As I had stated after my factory tour, they have now changed to a 4" duct on the 2500RL for the underbelly. I've tried to attach a photo of mine where you can see the 4" duct disappearing into the floor. My furnace has (4) 4" ducts coming out of it. I tried to attach your photo along with the one I'm trying to include here for comparison but I'm not computer savvy enough to copy yours. Anyway, it shows that GD is continuing to evolve each floorplan as they discover improvements they can make.

[D2whoharp]

Update: I un-bolted part of the coroplast near dump valves and discovered the 2 inch heat duct for the enclosed belly terminates near the black tank valve. So there clearly is no attempt to route heat duct to the front near pump and fresh water tank. Also the water line coming from pump is up against the cold trailer frame as it proceeds rearward; so I added a 6" wide fiberglass batt between line and frame.

This has me thinking that it might be worth having a look under the coroplast of my 2600RB and checking heat flow around the utility center. I kind of took it for granted that all this worked as advertised. How difficult is it to remove the coroplast?

[Chiefblueman]

It's not too hard to take it down, a lot harder putting it back up.
Our Reflection has the "Arctic Package". The underbelly reflective barrier, about the thickness of a piece of paper, ended about 2/3 of the way back leaving the living area open. The underbelly is now insulated all the way with reflective bubble insulation.

[D2whoharp]

It's not too hard to take it down, a lot harder putting it back up.
Our Reflection has the "Arctic Package". The underbelly reflective barrier, about the thickness of a piece of paper, ended about 2/3 of the way back leaving the living area open. The underbelly is now insulated all the way with reflective bubble insulation.

How did you secure it?

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[Chiefblueman]

I cut the insulation long enough to span the trailer side to side and to the top of the frame rails. There are enough things to tuck around to hold the insulation up. It really can't go anywhere. Taped all joints, then put the coroplast back up.
While I was in there I rerouted some wiring, insulated all the plumbing and modified the underbelly heat duct to distribute the heat. It was a bit of a project.

[D2whoharp]

[QUOTE= insulated all the plumbing and modified the underbelly heat duct to distribute the heat. It was a bit of a project.[/QUOTE]

Insulated using foam pipe wrap?

How did you redirect the ducting. I was thinking a perforated duct running back to front with the outlet end plugged or restricted might work. This would require a bit of trial and error to get the outflow to match the inflow of air. Maybe more trouble than it is worth.

[Chiefblueman]

I used this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5812/204760811

The 315 had a 2 inch flexible duct to the belly with 2 tees and an open end, so 3 outlets. When the furnace ran, about 90% of the heated air came out of the first opening which is aft of the black tank, 10% out the second between grey tanks, pretty much nothing out the end ahead of the fresh tank.

I read here that the plumbing in the island was vulnerable to freezing. I formed a sort of duct around the plumbing to the island by stapling insulation to the bottom of the floor, then fed the open end with the first tee. Second tee now between black and kitchen grey, added a third tee between bath grey and fresh, then open end ahead of fresh and aft of third grey tank. Then I ran the furnace and formed dampers out of aluminum pop cans fastened over the ends of the tees, varied their openings to even out the flow. Now I have heated air coming up the plumbing chase to the kitchen, not much but detectable with infrared thermometer. There is a small but steady stream of heated air from the rest of the openings. This rests above the bubble insulation that wraps up the sides of the frame rails. I left the opening through the floor for plumbing that is near the furnace open to help with flow to the return.

I initially thought I had a plumbing leak so I dropped the coroplast. The water was coming from water thrown up by the wheels entering gaps in the coroplast, openings for the slides and spare tire shaft as evidenced by dirt streaks and gritty stuff on top of the coroplast. No plumbing leaks were found. I sealed and baffled the openings with a combination of rubber, urethane caulk and spray foam.

It's a mess down there. Wiring and plumbing haphazardly installed. Some wiring laid on top of moving slide parts. I tidied things up as best I could without completely redoing the whole thing. Project took me 2+ weeks on my concrete driveway, but now I believe this trailer will float!

[D2whoharp]

I used this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5812/204760811

The 315 had a 2 inch flexible duct to the belly with 2 tees and an open end, so 3 outlets. When the furnace ran, about 90% of the heated air came out of the first opening which is aft of the black tank, 10% out the second between grey tanks, pretty much nothing out the end ahead of the fresh tank.

I read here that the plumbing in the island was vulnerable to freezing. I formed a sort of duct around the plumbing to the island by stapling insulation to the bottom of the floor, then fed the open end with the first tee. Second tee now between black and kitchen grey, added a third tee between bath grey and fresh, then open end ahead of fresh and aft of third grey tank. Then I ran the furnace and formed dampers out of aluminum pop cans fastened over the ends of the tees, varied their openings to even out the flow. Now I have heated air coming up the plumbing chase to the kitchen, not much but detectable with infrared thermometer. There is a small but steady stream of heated air from the rest of the openings. This rests above the bubble insulation that wraps up the sides of the frame rails. I left the opening through the floor for plumbing that is near the furnace open to help with flow to the return.

I initially thought I had a plumbing leak so I dropped the coroplast. The water was coming from water thrown up by the wheels entering gaps in the coroplast, openings for the slides and spare tire shaft as evidenced by dirt streaks and gritty stuff on top of the coroplast. No plumbing leaks were found. I sealed and baffled the openings with a combination of rubber, urethane caulk and spray foam.

It's a mess down there. Wiring and plumbing haphazardly installed. Some wiring laid on top of moving slide parts. I tidied things up as best I could without completely redoing the whole thing. Project took me 2+ weeks on my concrete driveway, but now I believe this trailer will float!

Lol. Thanks for the details. Something for me to do in retirement. Which officially starts April 1st.

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[Chiefblueman]

Congrats on your upcoming retirement! Mine started June 1 of last year.

[D2whoharp]

Congrats on your upcoming retirement! Mine started June 1 of last year.

Thanks.

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