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  1. #21
    Fireside Member
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    Well I mostly got our Progressive Industries hardwired EMS installed today. I say mostly because I took most of the skin off my fingertip trying to get the mounting screws fastened to the floor. I mounted the EMS behind the breaker panel. I think the design of the mounting points was not well thought out. If one follows the installation instruction mounting would be one of the last steps I believe. Well the stress relief connectors block two of the mounting points. In my case reaching behind the unit and angling the mounting screws was a bear. When my screw gun slipped off the head of the screw I took most of the skin off the tip of my finger. Next trip out to the 5th wheel I will clean up the blood, attempt to get the last two mounting screws in and mount the remote display. On the really positive side I did get all my wiring pulled for our solar install and the coax cable run for the Weboost. I followed Erick's (Mr. & Mrs. G ) install post and removed the wall behind the toilet. I found removing the wall the most stressful section of the solar wiring install. Big shout out to Erick for diving in first! For $1 a month this forum pays big dividends.

    If anyone needs a bunch of sawdust just pull out your breaker panel, remove a wall or look behind the pass thru wall. Amish craftsmanship my foot.......

  2. #22
    Site Sponsor andrewssteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by safron View Post
    I recently purchased my 2017 Solitude 379FLS. Very happy with it so far. I can tell by the construction is was built by some people who care. I can't say the same about my previous class A (built by another company that I won't mention here). I do remodeling and home repairs for a living so I consider myself to have a fairly good eye when it comes to general construction methods.

    After purchasing the Solitude I wanted to go with Progressive industries hardwired unit, since I had previously installed one in my class A. I came to this forum and wanted to see where others had installed it. Couldn't find any pics, so I thought I would offer some of my install. Hopefully this is helpful to the next person looking to install the EMS-HW50C hardwired surge protector in their unit.
    So here it goes...
    In the forward storage compartment you'll find this middle panel which can be removed:
    Attachment 9782
    Behind that middle wall panel is easy access to the 50 amp line (thick black line in photo) coming in from shore, the water heater, water pump, etc.
    Attachment 9787
    This back wall makes a perfect location to mount the surge protector since the 50amp line runs right along side. You'll also see I attached a short 1x6 piece of wood to securely hold the surge protector
    Attachment 9789
    I ran the digital display over near the storage compartment door so when connecting up shore power I can easily see the readout.
    Attachment 9790
    This is the last pic with cover attached and everything working.
    Attachment 9791
    One thing to note about my install and pics above. You'll notice the surge protector is upside down. This is due to the shore power coming in from the right side of the photos. The line/input happens to be on the left side of the surge protector so this means the box gets flipped upside down for the install.

    Hope this helps anyone else looking for where to install their surge protector.
    Thanks for the pics. Did you just saw the 50 amp line in two with a hack saw?
    Steve and Renee
    2018 Solitude 310GK, disc brakes, Morryde SRE4000/XFactor with heavy duty shackles
    2012 Ram 3500 SRW 6.7 Diesel, air bags
    18k B&W Companion, non-slider
    640 watts solar, 400 amp-hour Lion Safari UT 1300 battery bank
    Aims 1500 watt inverter/charger with ATS
    Somerset, WI

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewssteve View Post
    Thanks for the pics. Did you just saw the 50 amp line in two with a hack saw?
    I would recommend just buying a short (4' or so) 6/3 romex (available at building supply houses like Home Depot) and pre-wiring it to the output side of your EMS. Then disconnect (do not cut) the original 6/3 service wire from the distribution panel and wire it to the input of the EMS. The 6/3 wire is very stiff. Pre-wiring the EMS while it is outside of the trailer makes the job easier (only have to wire up one side while in place inside the trailer). Also, by not cutting the original service wire you can remove the EMS and reinstall the original wire if you ever want to.

    Chris
    Last edited by CoChris; 04-24-2019 at 02:30 PM.
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  4. #24
    Site Sponsor andrewssteve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoChris View Post
    I would recommend just buying a short (4' or so) 6/3 romex (available at building supply houses like Home Depot) and pre-wiring it to the output side of your EMS. Then disconnect (do not cut) the original 6/3 service wire from the distribution panel and wire it to the input of the EMS. The 6/3 wire is very stiff. Pre-wiring the EMS while it is outside of the trailer makes the job easier (only have to wire up one side while in place inside the trailer). Also, by not cutting the original service wire you can remove the EMS and reinstall the original wire if you ever want to.

    Chris
    Brilliant! I'm indebted to this forum and participants like you.

    Thanks.

    -Steve
    Steve and Renee
    2018 Solitude 310GK, disc brakes, Morryde SRE4000/XFactor with heavy duty shackles
    2012 Ram 3500 SRW 6.7 Diesel, air bags
    18k B&W Companion, non-slider
    640 watts solar, 400 amp-hour Lion Safari UT 1300 battery bank
    Aims 1500 watt inverter/charger with ATS
    Somerset, WI

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewssteve View Post
    Brilliant! I'm indebted to this forum and participants like you.

    Thanks.

    -Steve
    Happy to help. Just trying to pay back/forward a little of the great advice I have learned here.

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor orbiker's Avatar
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    I saw somewhere that the EMS-HW50C had an issue with the voltage being adjustable.

    Someone posted about Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C Hardwire pod adjustment. The voltage reading is 6 volts too high, which creates a fault code if the supplied voltage is 125 out of the generator.

    There was a post about adjusting a pod somewhere under the cover. Thanks, KEN
    Backpacker and tent camper all my life, including BSA as a kid and adult.
    Motorcycle trips across the USA with a tent - 1978 to Present.
    02-10-2005 - 2002 F350 SWD PSD and 2003 Citation 10'8S mostly for Crater Lake Ski Patrol.
    10-29-2015 - 2016 Grand Design 380TH. It's HUGE compared to a camper.
    10-19-2018 - traded truck for a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie CC 4 X 4 Long Box.
    03-16-2019 - Traded Momentum for a New 2018 374TH-R Solitude
    FULL TIME RV'er Nov 2021

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbiker View Post
    I saw somewhere that the EMS-HW50C had an issue with the voltage being adjustable.

    Someone posted about Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C Hardwire pod adjustment. The voltage reading is 6 volts too high, which creates a fault code if the supplied voltage is 125 out of the generator.

    There was a post about adjusting a pod somewhere under the cover. Thanks, KEN
    Hi Ken

    I do not know about a "pod" or if there are different versions of the EMS-HW50C, but on mine the voltage measured adjustment are the two multi-turn pots on the control board. One pot for each leg. Mine voltage was off some (about 3.5 volts if I remember correctly) on one leg (about 1 volt on another). I adjusted (and matched) the voltage readings before installing it. I do not know if this helps you any.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  8. #28
    Site Sponsor orbiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbiker View Post
    I saw somewhere that the EMS-HW50C had an issue with the voltage being adjustable.

    Someone posted about Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C Hardwire pod adjustment. The voltage reading is 6 volts too high, which creates a fault code if the supplied voltage is 125 out of the generator.

    There was a post about adjusting a pod somewhere under the cover. Thanks, KEN
    Quote Originally Posted by CoChris View Post
    Hi Ken

    I do not know about a "pod" or if there are different versions of the EMS-HW50C, but on mine the voltage measured adjustment are the two multi-turn pots on the control board. One pot for each leg. Mine voltage was off some (about 3.5 volts if I remember correctly) on one leg (about 1 volt on another). I adjusted (and matched) the voltage readings before installing it. I do not know if this helps you any.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_9217.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	92.2 KB 
ID:	20032

    Chris
    So Chris;
    The little screw on the blue pod are for the adjustment.

    Does it take much of a turn and do you do the adjustment with power on?

    Thanks, KEN
    Backpacker and tent camper all my life, including BSA as a kid and adult.
    Motorcycle trips across the USA with a tent - 1978 to Present.
    02-10-2005 - 2002 F350 SWD PSD and 2003 Citation 10'8S mostly for Crater Lake Ski Patrol.
    10-29-2015 - 2016 Grand Design 380TH. It's HUGE compared to a camper.
    10-19-2018 - traded truck for a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie CC 4 X 4 Long Box.
    03-16-2019 - Traded Momentum for a New 2018 374TH-R Solitude
    FULL TIME RV'er Nov 2021

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbiker View Post
    So Chris;
    The little screw on the blue pod are for the adjustment.

    Does it take much of a turn and do you do the adjustment with power on?

    Thanks, KEN
    OK. I am a little slow. It is "pot", not "pod". Short for Potentiometer. A type of variable resistor. Yes, the little screw onthe side (end pointing up in the picture) is the adjustment. If I remember correctly, they are ten turn pots, but it takes very little turn to adjust the voltage.

    You are working with live, 120v power for the adjustment. If you are not experienced and/or comfortable around dangerous voltage, I would NOT recommend you adjust them yourself. I hooked up the remote display (so I could see the voltage reading) and the input to line (120v) power (I used the same input to both legs), and I hooked up a good (known accurate) voltmeter across the inputs. I then adjusted each pot until the display for each legs voltage read the same as my meter. Again, remember you are working around live power with a lot of exposed terminal. Be very careful if you do this yourself.

    Chris
    Chris & Karen
    Fort Collins, CO
    2017 F-350 SRW 6.7 Lariat Value CC LB 4x4
    2018 Solitude 310GK - Sold 7/2023

  10. #30
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orbiker View Post
    So Chris;
    The little screw on the blue pod are for the adjustment.

    Does it take much of a turn and do you do the adjustment with power on?

    Thanks, KEN
    Yes the screws on the blue pots. One is L1, the other is L2.
    Yes, power on. Turn a bit and let the remote display update, then adjust till you match your DMM voltage reading.
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

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