Do you leave the gas on?

[Barbara & Dave]

... it is determined that your pilots were lit, ...

...VTX-Al

I doubt if any GD units have pilots, they're all new enough to have electronic ignition.

Dave
(runs with gas on)


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[livinthelife]

I doubt if any GD units have pilots, they're all new enough to have electronic ignition.

Dave
(runs with gas on)


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Only pilot light we have is the one in the oven, and we have to manually light it when we want to use the oven. The stovetop is electronic ignition.

[JCZhome]

It's an individual choice. However, I will share with all of you what they shared with us in the RV Maint. Tech. class a couple of weeks ago:

The propane tanks should be turned off anytime an RV is being moved down the street (this was about where they showed slides of RVs burned up on the side of the road). A blow out can and does take out the propane lines and that starts the fire. Owners report that their travel trailer or 5th wheel are fully engulfed before they can even get it pulled over.

On average, for every minute that an RV refrigerator is open it takes approx. 1 hour to recover the temp. loss.

Before an RV can be inspected, it has to be plugged in and turned on a minimum of 12 hours prior to the inspection to check the refer temp.

Traveling with food, the food itself will help to maintain the inside temp. of a refer but you can also freeze a couple of those plastic ice blocks that are available in nearly every walmart or Target, freeze them the night before and leave a couple in the freezer and put a couple in the refer. Along with the food that's already cold in there, it's always been fine after a days travel provided nobody opens the refer during the day. Otherwise, you can use those same plastic ice blocks, freeze them and use them in a cooler to keep your food cold until you get where you're going.

Just some thoughts/suggestions for people to try. After the photos that I've seen over the past couple of weeks, I think I'll turn the tanks off. The old adage......rather be safe than sorry.

[srobins]

There appears to be conflicting recommendations when it comes to traveling with the propane on or off. I have personally always turned the propane off when traveling. To that end, we recently experienced the right rear tire (Westlake) blowout on our 297RSTS at just under 60 MPH. There was damage to the skirt of the trailer, and a small hole in the slide out. The tire also ripped the propane manifold and hose leading to the refrigerator off of the frame of the trailer. The force was sufficient enough to pull the hose leading to the refrigerator off of the male quick disconnect fitting. The male fitting remained in the manifold. If we had been traveling with the propane on, gas would have continued to flow out of the male fitting with the possibility of sparks from the steel belts in the tire hitting the payment and igniting the propane leaking from the hose.

[WhittleBurner]

I believe there is an emergency shutoff valve on them to shut them off if a sudden major leak occurs.

[VinceB]

I was just at an rv seminar at General RV and according to their service manager, it’s safe to travel with the refrigerator on propane. It was explained that the new(er) travel trailers have an automatic emergency cut off switch if there is a loss of pressure anywhere in the system.
I’m still new to all of this, so with all of the conflicting reports I say: Let your conscience be your guide.

[Tim340]

The connection to the propane tank has a built in over-flow device that will shut down propane flow if a line is cut or a fitting breaks. This is the same "shut down" that you will encounter if you open the tank valve too quickly and create an out rush of propane that the over-flow valve sees as uncontrolled flow.

Rob

I travel with the propane on for the refrigerator only.
Tim

[srobins]

I was just at an rv seminar at General RV and according to their service manager, it’s safe to travel with the refrigerator on propane. It was explained that the new(er) travel trailers have an automatic emergency cut off switch if there is a loss of pressure anywhere in the system.
I’m still new to all of this, so with all of the conflicting reports I say: Let your conscience be your guide.

It would be interesting to hear from Grand Design on this question. I am familiar with what is typically referred to as a Velocity Fuse that will shut off flow if the velocity in a line exceeds a predetermined level. I am curious if this is incorporated in our RVs, and if so, what amount of flow would be required to trip the device. I am assuming that if we are running the refrigerator, water heater, furnace, and stove/oven all at the same time we are probably flowing a significant amount of propane. In a situation like this you would not want the device to trip unnecessarily, but still trip if a hose or fitting is broken or damaged.

[livinthelife]

Any one want to hazard a guess as to how much power the fridge takes (if we want to do the inverter thing)?

[srobins]

Any one want to hazard a guess as to how much power the fridge takes (if we want to do the inverter thing)?

I have the 8 Cubic Foot model in my 297RSTS. According to the Dometic specifications for this unit, it draws 440 Watts. Here is a link to their specification sheet.
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/pro...specifications