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01-24-2018, 01:45 PM #1
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Builders and Engineers- seeking your thoughts
Greetings folks- I have never actually spent a night in an RV, but expect to do so soon. Anticipate becoming a GD owner in the next 12-18 months, and then full-timing it. As a former builder and current medical technician, I'm more interested in the structure and components of RVs than the decor (although that is very nice too). Here are a few things I've been wondering about. Any and all answers appreciated:
1. Moisture control is currently a hot topic in the "green building" world. Seems like it could be a big problem in RVs- impermeable exterior membrane enclosing a small, well-sealed interior space, with capacity for high humidity. How do you keep an RV from becoming a petri dish? Seems like there is great potential for mold and mildew problems.
2. The slide outs really make the spaces quite livable. What do the manufacturers do to avoid compromising the strength of the structure of an RV when you are bouncing down the highway with 8' to 14' x 7' slider holes in the sides? No probs with racking or flexing/bowing? It doesn't seem like the end walls of the slider fit tight enough to provide stability, or do they?
3. The mechanisms for the sliders are interesting too. Do the tracks ever jump a tooth or two? If so, is it owner-fixable in the field? (Must be, since I never saw an RV going down the interstate with the slider extended!) Does the weight of a kitchen and pantry ever compromise the mechanism? Seems like a lot of weight to ask those little tracks to move.
4. One more, moisture again. The 2018 GD 5th wheels have two "air scoops" in the front cowling. I'm guessing to avoid moisture problems under the roof? Are there dampers on them? Seems like potential for a small hurricane in the attic, if you happen to pulling it in a rainstorm at 60 mph.
Thanks, I realize I've got a lot to learn about these things!
Karl
Wilmington, NC
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01-24-2018, 08:31 PM #2
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This is a huge problem for some, and not even a nuisance for others. A lot has to do with how and where you live. I have had no condensation/mold/moisture problems until my son brought his 3 buds up for a long weekend of skiing. Then we got condensation. 5 bodies breathing instead of 2, 5 showers instead of 2, meals for 5... you get the picture. We don't have a dish washer nor a washer and dryer. We tend to live in drier climates. Mitigation methods include installing a dehumidifier, Damp-Rid bags, and moving to the desert. It is an issue that must be acknowledged. But for me it is a very minor issue.
I just reread the question after I parsed it. RV structure bouncing down the road, usually 12” steel I beams set up on 2 -3 7000 pound axles with appropriate suspension. Add flexible 5th wheel hitch, you get flex and good strength. These systems have been compromised, but for the average RV user they are adequate.
I thought this question was about how the slides ride. The riding strength comes from the way the slide “seat” into the wall. When properly adjusted fully retracted the exterior trim fits snugly up against the wall. It's a seam all the way around the sides and the roof. The flooring sits on a rub bar that is pretty substantial.
The slide out boxes are pretty solid, I am not an engineer so I can't explain why this is, but I have been with slide outs for 7 years and have never had a problem with bowing or flexing. In my studies of RV forums I do see some issue, but they are rare.
There have been issues with RV frames flexing and bowing. They are pretty rare but it does happen. The main way to mitigate this problem is to drive slower. This causes less stress when the RV gets bounced. You bounce anything hard enough it will break. Understanding that these things are not the strongest helps you understand that you have to gentle. If you are gentle they will last a long time. If you bounce them down a rough road everyday they will come apart.
Yes tracks can jump a tooth. Mechanisms have been compromised. Yes that's a lot of weight, but it doesn't rest on the tracks, the tracks are only traction to move the slides over the weight bearing components. One of the keys to keeping the slides from jumping tracks is to only move them when the RV is level, mover them completely out, or completely in without stopping and starting.
Racking, has a lot of connotations. So I guess I need a clarification on this one.
I am not familiar with this. Need picture or more specific information.
Welcome to the forum. There is a lot of knowledge and experience here. If we don't know the answer we will make something up.
In reality, the folks here will give their very best advice and information. You are required to look at the responses and judge for yourself their validity and truth. I have said what I believe. Others will have a different opinion, that's what forums are all about, interesting discussion.Dallas
2017 Momentum 376TH, 2019 Ford F450, Dual Rear Wheel, 4x4, diesel.
2015 Harley-Davidson Street, XG750
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01-24-2018, 09:29 PM #3
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Perhaps the air scoops you see are the battery vents.
I purchased a Danby 30 Pt dehumidifier, manufacture recommended by another member. Last night I used it. The humidity in the trailer was 78% after a day of on and off rain. It was nasty humid in the trailer.
I turned it on at dinner time and set the humidity target at 45%. Before going to bed I dumped the 1/2 full 6.7 pint tank. In the morning the tank was almost full again. I can’t believe how much water it pulled out of the air. The RH was a comfortable 45% in the morning.Jerry & Linda
Emma & Abby our Mini Golden Doodles & JR our Amazon Parrot
2017 Reflection 337RLS, Build Date 01/2017, Titan Disk Brakes, Goodyear G614s 235/85/16 G Rated tires
2022 F-450 King Ranch Ultimate, 4,868 lb Payload, Bedrug Bedliner, Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5th wheel hitch
http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/FLGANCSCsm.jpg
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01-25-2018, 04:23 AM #4
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Wow, that is impressive Jerry! I need a dehumidifier in my house crawlspace, so I guess there is no escape from them in the coastal SE. It's a 200 mile round trip for me to look at a GD and I've only done that once so far, but I went back and took a closer look at the pictures and what I thought were air scoops are only paint or decals. Oops! : )
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01-25-2018, 04:40 AM #5
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Thanks for taking the time to respond to my ruminations, you've been reassuring. When we started looking at the full time option, the RV horror stories were a little off-putting. Hated to think I might be burning thru fifth wheels every 4-5 years. Feeling more confident about narrowing the search to a GD. This looks like a great forum. Lots more questions...
Karl
Wilmington, NC
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01-25-2018, 05:33 AM #6
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- A rolling stone....we're in Tucson, Az. now.
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I'm not familiar with the "air scoops" either?
Interesting topic and once again, my comments and experience would parallel Dallas (D2Reid) with one exception. We do not have dual pane windows (based on previous experience, I sure wish we did however, we bought "used") and so I had all of our windows lined with the ceramic window film. I had the ceramic film put in my truck, including my front windshield (clear), to cut down on the heat for my dogs. I was so impressed with how effective it is to minimize the heat issue in the truck that I also had it put on every window of my 376TH. We have two people and two dogs in here and while in Tex. we got down to 12F and 18F a number of times in Dec. and early Jan. before we came to Florida.
We were in Texas attending the RV Maint. Tech school and the RV Inspector school. It was actually the other students that first questioned me about how is it that we don't have any condensation early in the mornings. I can only attribute it to the ceramic window film. We did have it, slightly two different times, when we took our morning showers and forgot to turn on the exhaust fan in the bathroom. Other than those two times, we've not had any condensation inside this rig when others on both sides of us were covered in condensation.
Another side benefit that's not claimed and I'm certainly not a scientist but I've noticed, when walking by the window across from the bathroom or going up the stairs to the living room (right beside the window and very close) or sitting in the dining area (surrounded on three sides by windows) that we do not feel the cold like we did in my previous 5th wheel (before we had dual pane installed in that RV).
One last note.....on that last 5th wheel.....I experienced the same RV without dual pane windows and then later with dual pane windows (it was negotiated at the time of purchase) and dual pane windows make a big difference not just in temperature control but also in how often and how long the A/C or heater run! Now we've learned that the ceramic window film also makes a big difference. If I had a choice, I would opt for dual pane and then I'd probably take it a step further and have the ceramic film installed. Just my personal experience and my humble opinion.
As a foot note, I will say that I think this Momentum is insulated very well considering it's the structure of an RV.SOLD my 2017 Momentum 376TH being pulled by a 2014 Ford F-350 Lariat, FX-4, Crew Cab, Longbed, Dually. Not pulling the 5er, catch me on my 2013 CVO Harley Ultra Classic.
Map = states that we've stayed at least one night in our RV.
http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/AR...TNTXUTWYsm.jpg
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01-25-2018, 05:39 AM #7
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- A rolling stone....we're in Tucson, Az. now.
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Just a note......in my mold remediation training in my career, we learned that for a dehumidifier to work most efficiently it needs to operate in a confined space. We always close the door to the room it's in, close the toilet seat, cover the sink and/or shower drain (it will draw the moisture that's easiest for it to pull). If we had to put it in a kitchen, we'd dump any dishes that had water in them. So while I'm sure it would draw some moisture from a crawl space, I don't believe it would operate efficiently.
SOLD my 2017 Momentum 376TH being pulled by a 2014 Ford F-350 Lariat, FX-4, Crew Cab, Longbed, Dually. Not pulling the 5er, catch me on my 2013 CVO Harley Ultra Classic.
Map = states that we've stayed at least one night in our RV.
http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/AR...TNTXUTWYsm.jpg
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01-25-2018, 06:54 PM #8
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Yep- it's tough to dehumidify the neighborhood! The new approach is to insulate the foundation wall and seal the crawlspace with a 10 or 12 mil vapor barrier to within 3" of the top. Then caulk and insulate the plate and rim joist. The idea is to keep warm, humid air out of the crawlspace where it tends to condense. If there is ductwork under there (mine is in the attic), all the connections get sealed with mastic to make it as airtight as possible. Its a lot of extra work and expense that is driving many contractors to take another look at building on a slab.
Sounds like you've done some fire and water damage remediation? That was the work that drove me into healthcare!
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02-16-2018, 11:54 PM #9
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I was reading a post on the Facebook Grand Design forum about mildew or mold between the mattress and OSB. I live in south and haven't seen it yet. Is this a common problem? There is a pad called Hypervent to keep air flow and moisture drying under the mattress but it is expensive ($11 per linear foot for 39" wide). Is this necessary or should I just check for mildew under mattress occasionally? Also, should you remove bedspread sheets while in storage ?
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02-19-2018, 08:20 PM #10
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Those scoops are for routing air up over the top and around the rear to push the 5th wheel and truck. Good for 3-4 more MPG I hear.
Actually there are no scoops to draw in air. Just for looks.
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