Titan disc brake install tips and tricks

[SouthTX]

Go look at the rear axle of your truck. Chances are there's lines attached to it. Attaching a line to the rear of the trailer axle would seem to about as safe as you can get other than running it up inside the coroplast attached to the frame.

I did. Its a steel line. I think it is all kind of a tradeoff. I wanted as much protection for the lines as possible, but, as Rob mentioned, the drop hoses are the most likely points of failure. My original plan was to run a hose across the back of the cross-member, but the shop couldn't find the right fittings to make it work so I can live with the steel line on the axle.

[el Rojo]

The problem I had was using short (3' to 6') brakes lines purchased from the local auto parts. I wanted everything plumb and level, I know anal. Anyway, I tightened the clamps to the trailer before I put the last 1/4 turn on the brake line unions. This caused a few leaks. I had to loosen the clamps, tighten the brake unions then re-tighten the clamps to the trailer...very easy fix but took 3 days to figure out.

Red

[Eugenebytes]

Make sure to double check all of your hydraulic fittings. Several of mine were scored inside on what should have been smooth copper leading to little leaks once I had it together. Check your cables as well as the 90 degree elbow that's on the calipers. 2 of my 4 had bad fittings.

[BigGuy82]

Go look at the rear axle of your truck. Chances are there's lines attached to it. Attaching a line to the rear of the trailer axle would seem to about as safe as you can get other than running it up inside the coroplast attached to the frame.

I ran mine along the frame rails and then right on the coroplast. There is no need to run it above the coroplast or run it along the axles. Why not above the coroplast? Think leaks. Why not along he axle? Why put it on an axle that bounces up and down? The thing is to insure that where you secure the clips you are not hitting a tank or just securing to the coroplast, which won't hold anything. I secured my clips to existing fasteners that were holding the coroplast to the frame. If you don't think this is the way to go, talk to the folks at Performance Trailer Braking. They install hundreds of these things and this is how they do it.

If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll crawl underneath tomorrow and get some pictures of the lines.

[roady1]

Since I am going to be starting this project soon I would like to see some pictures. No rush to do it for me as it will be a few week's before I start mine.
Thanks in advance though for offering.

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[BigGuy82]

The problem I had was using short (3' to 6') brakes lines purchased from the local auto parts. I wanted everything plumb and level, I know anal. Anyway, I tightened the clamps to the trailer before I put the last 1/4 turn on the brake line unions. This caused a few leaks. I had to loosen the clamps, tighten the brake unions then re-tighten the clamps to the trailer...very easy fix but took 3 days to figure out.

Red

You can run the lines anywhere you please by buying 25' of steel line from Amazon (complete with fittings), using a tubing cutter and making your own flares with a flaring tool you can rent from AutoZone for free. No need to use 3' or 6" line - make a 4" if you need it.

[Cate&Rob]

Securing the brake line to the underside of the frame rails using the fasteners that hold the coroplast, means that the brake line is at risk of being crushed by a jack or jack stand lifting or supporting the frame and means that the brake line has to be disturbed if (when) the coroplast has to be dropped for service work. Best to keep away from both these future problems, in my opinion.

Rob

[BigGuy82]

Securing the brake line to the underside of the frame rails using the fasteners that hold the coroplast, means that the brake line is at risk of being crushed by a jack or jack stand lifting or supporting the frame and means that the brake line has to be disturbed if (when) the coroplast has to be dropped for service work. Best to keep away from both these future problems, in my opinion.

Rob

Not at all. There is absolutely no danger of jack damage - the line is not on the underside of the rail. It goes along the side of the ibeam, then over the top to the coroplast. In fact, I'd be more worried about jack damage by running along the axle, plus unless you have flex tubing between the terminus of the line and the axle, the axle movement will very likely break the line. If the brake line needs to be disconnected to drop the coroplast, it's a simple job for any mechanic. I did it the way Performance Trailer Braking recommended and I have a totally professional, functional installation. If you do it the way they instruct you to, you can't miss. Also I'll be sending pictures tomorrow. I'll take shots all the way from the actuator to the calipers so as to answer any questions. Take a look and let me know what you think.

[BigGuy82]

Pictures of my brake line routing.

Actuator mount and line mounting along frame to coach bottom:



Can only do a max of 5 files per post. Sending the rest on second post.

[BigGuy82]

Brake lines along the rear basement wall and fastened to coroplast:



And finally, a picture of a stainless steel line clamp (not the cheap plastic ones included in the kit) secured firmly to the underside of the frame using the factory installed screws used to secure the coroplast.



As you can see, there is no danger of jack damage, the rear basement wall acts as a shield from road debris and the stainless steel clamps securely fasten the line to the coach. I can't stress strongly enough the importance of using stainless steel clamps instead of the flimsy plastic ones included with the kit. The plastic ones will break and you will have brake lines hanging.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.