Diesel Truck Oil Change Intervals

**tomstacey616** · 10-08-2018, 08:41 AM

Originally Posted by rexrace

I just changed the oil in my 08 D-Max last night for the first time. I was just about to pour in the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Synthetic oil when I checked for the CJ-4 rating and guess what? No CJ-4 rating. So off to the parts store for something better. Rotella Synthetic with CJ-4 proudly displayed on the front of their bottle https://4wdlife.com/best-oil-for-pow...ell-Rotella-T6 Guess what oil I'm running? The owners manual is very specific for the CJ-4 rated oil and even goes as far as saying problems with anything not CJ-4 rated will not be covered under their warranty. I'm surprised at Mobil 1. I thought they of all people would meet the CJ-4 requirement.

Just my. 02

A buddy of mine works for Ford and confirmed for me that the Mobil 1 is CJ-4 compliant, also, their website shows it. https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...o-diesel-truck
No worries my friend, use what you wish...

**Leon T** · 10-10-2018, 08:46 AM

I change when my computer says it's time, usually right around 6,000 miles. I use the Walmart branded oil (Super Tech) because it meets the specs laid out by my engine manufacturer and it costs me less money. All other service (Allison tranny, transfer case, etc.) I perform when the manual tells me they're due.

Chev does the first two oil changes for free so I let them do the first two and I have done them myself since. I service all my own stuff so I know it's done right.

**Steven@147** · 01-14-2019, 10:42 AM

To revive an older thread, I did our first oil change on our new 2018 Ram 3500 6.7L Cummins. The mileage was 10,000 miles and the monitor said there was 38% left on the oil and fuel filters. It also said we had run a little over 500 gallons of diesel through the truck. Now the owners manual says 10,000 miles is the normal standard for oil changes, but never over 15,000. the fuel filter every oil change or up to 15,000 miles.

The dealer wanted $400 for an oil change with filter (12 quarts) and change both fuel filters. I thought that was too much so searching I found on Amazon a filter package for 6.7L Cummins engines containing all three MOPAR branded filters oil, engine fuel filter and rear frame fuel filter for $97. I used Shell Rotella T5 15W40, this is what the owners manual says to use, Walmart had it for $18.57 / gallon so the oil was $57. I found out later Tractor Supply has it for $18/ gallon. Well I bought all the stuff for $154, so I figured an hours work , I'd be done and save $246.

Not so fast my friend! The oil filter was screwed on by a gorilla and just wouldn't break loose and come off. Using a strap wrench either through the hole in the right fender well or from the top down through the engine you just cant get enough room to break it loose. Screwed with this filter for over an hour, partially collapsed the side of the filter with the strap wrench but finally got it off. After flling the new filter with oil it screwed on just fine hand tight. The oil was a little black, well used.

Next on to the fuel filters, the engine one first. Now mind you the engine had not been run for a long time. You open a valve on the bottom of the filter assy to drain the fuel before taking the cap off the filter containing the fuel cartridge. They even have a drain line running out the bottom of the engine so you can catch the drained diesel fuel in a can. It probably drained out a pint before stopping, I let it drain a long time, so I unscrewed the top cap and splash, diesel fuel all down under the truck and all over the front differential. Crap! Yeah that worked out really well! That $400 is starting to look not so bad after all. Got the new cartridge in, screwed on the cap and got the spilled diesel fuel cleaned up.

Now on to the rear fuel filter attached to the bed cross frame back by the rear differential above the driveshaft. This is a fuel filter much like a screw on oil filter with a separate water in fuel sensor screwed on to the bottom of the filter. It also has a draining valve on the bottom of the filter "through the water in fuel sensor" to drain it prior to loosing the filter. So after what I went through with the front engine fuel filter, I opened the drain and let it set with a catch can for a long, long, long time! Disconnected the water in fuel sensor electrical connection, then using a strap wrench loosened the filter and gush, diesel fuel all over the floor and rear driveshaft. CRAP!

Now mind you I am following the manual on how to change the filters. Come to find out the rear fuel filter has a big pin that sticks up in the middle of the filter where it screws on. This pin contacts a spring valve on the filter receptacle that closes the fuel line while changing the filter. If you take off the fuel filter slowly it keeps the fuel line open longer and gush, if you take it off fast the valve snaps shut preventing a gush! Also if you unknowingly unscrew the water in fuel sensor from the bottom of the filter first, this keeps the spring valve open until you get the filter itself off and more gush! They don't tell you that in the manual!! Fortunately I was taking the whole filter off as an assembly so I had a little gush!

Well after spilled diesel fuel clean up, I took the old filter over to the vise. The water in fuel sensor has to come off the bottom of the old filter and screwed onto the new filter with a new O-ring. It has a big hex nut maybe 27mm or so, and its plastic! So carefully getting the sides of the plastic hex nut clamped in the soft jawed vice and tried to loosen it from the filter. Nope no go! Tried a little more force and the plastic nut turned in the soft jawed vice. Crap! Reset the sides of the nut in the vice and tightened it a little more and tried again, yup came loose. Now with a new O-ring screw on the sensor to the filter, place a new O-ring on the top of the filter and screw it into the receptacle a few threads to make sure its started straight, then spin it on fast to seal the filter and open the fuel line spring valve to minimize the diesel fuel spillage.

After more floor and driveshaft clean up from spilled diesel fuel, and changing my sweat shirt from diesel fuel running down my arms, I'm ready to test start the engine. Cycle the push button start to run position only (without pushing the brake pedal) three times fills the new filters with fuel, forth time start the engine. All seems ok, no fuel leaks. I'm done 3 hours later!

Thought you might enjoy some laughter at my expense! Anyway I saved $246.

**Canyonlight** · 01-14-2019, 11:03 AM

Steve - reading your post makes feel much better about have me dealer service our P/U. Now I do not feel bad at all about spending about $200 for an oil and fuel filter change. I think I can smell your diesel soaked sweat shirt from here !

Dan

**WhittleBurner** · 01-14-2019, 11:21 AM

That makes me feel real good about getting the oil and filter changed at the dealer down here in Florida last year on our GMC diesel for 80 dollars and that was with using synthetic oil. They also wash the truck when their done.

**RobM** · 01-14-2019, 11:51 AM

I had my free two oil changes done at the dealer, but with the mess they made filling the DEF for free, I don't really trust them...especially when it comes to the grease fittings. As far as I can tell, there are 9 on the new Chevy's, 11 on my old 2002. Funny that the greasing of the fittings is not one of the things they do for free on a new vehicle...I don't think the expertise is there anymore to find the fittings, even at the dealer.

**Steven@147** · 01-14-2019, 12:26 PM

The guy at the dealership I talked to said that just an oil change was $200. Yeah probably let them do it for just the oil. To also change the fuel filters (2) was another $200. He said one of the filters went up in price and was now $60 for the rear filter. Of course that is with their mark up.

Grease fittings - one time i had a service guy tell me on one of my vehicles the grease fitting on the right wheel wouldn't take grease. There isn't a grease fitting on the right wheel. I had him show me - It was the bleed fitting on the disc brake caliper.

No matter, got it done. What added insult to injury, when I was struggling with getting the oil filter off, the wife goes in the house, comes back with the pickle jar rubber gripper pad and says wrap this around the strap wrench for more grip! It Worked! I'll never live that down!
Now just came in the mail today "Redeem your Ram Care member benefits" Your membership currently has 4 oil changes and 4 tire rotations remaining. It doesn't say free but I didn't know I was enrolled in Ram Care Benefits!

Its Monday

**redspeed3`** · 01-14-2019, 12:46 PM

If it helps any, your story serves as educational material for me. Now I know what to look out for when I do the same procedure on my 2018 Ram.

I just looked into that Ram Care oil change offer. I was curious if I had the same thing. It seems they sell a "essential care package" where one can pay $265 and get up to 4 free oil changes + lube or 2 years coverage (which ever comes first). Perhaps your dealer threw that in for free when you bought your truck? Notice they don't say fuel filter - which seems to be the hardest part that you dealt with.

Thanks for your story!

Michael

**Steven@147** · 01-14-2019, 12:49 PM

Just for fun! I got this a long time ago from a good friend on a car lovers forum.

The Man of La Misery (sing to the tune of "I did It My Way")

To reach, the unreachable bolt,
To turn, the unturnable screw,
To press, with my last ounce of pressure;
To lie, in my gravel driveway!

This is my quest!
To fix my own tower! (trailer)
No matter how hopeless;
To do my own work!

And the world, will be better for this,
For that one man, torn and covered with oil (fuel),
Would not give up, till the bolt came out in pieces;
To torture, himself through it all!

This is my quest!
To fix my own tower (trailer)!
No matter how hopeless;
To do mine own work!
To be willing to lie in the mud and the snow!

Still strove, with his last fingernail,
His hands, now all covered with scars,
Will not give in, till come hell or high water;
To voice his opinions on high!

To reach, the un-reach-a-ble (drum roll) BOLT!

**TheLexx** · 01-14-2019, 01:41 PM

You may want to look into installing a Fumoto valve to replace the oil drain plug. It makes changing your oil a lot easier. You can hook up some clear tubing to the Fumoto valve nipple and run that into old milk jugs. It makes doing the oil change a lot easier.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...a/drain-valves

As for the oil filter, there are ways to remotely mount your oil filter to a more convenient location.

https://www.amazon.com/Pacbrake-PacP...a-607645578385