Trailer Sway Update

[timsos]

Thanks for all the advice, I am going to pay a guy to come check it out and see what the problem is as I am out of state. When I come back I want to hook and go. I think I am going to go ahead and order me a propride and be done with it, I’ll let this guy see if he can get it right with the husky first. I can honestly say it’s easier to hook up and go with a semi than a travel trailer. As far as tires go if that 65 is the rating then they are going to get changed out, that’s a bit ridiculous. I really hope that’s not the case.

[goducks14]

I have to respectfully disagree with the advice to have "not less than" 40" on the front fender as that indicates that it is OK to unload the front axle when adding weight to the rear. It doesn't take much and reducing the weight on the front axle can cause many trucks to feel like you're driving on ice. I never had much success setting up a WDH using a tape measure to check the wheel well heights.

I suspect that lightening the front axle may very well have been the OP's original problem.

If the front fender height is say 40" unloaded and you drop the coupler on the WDH and don't hook up the spring bars the front could be 41". You want the front back to 40" or as close as possible but you don't want 39"-39-1/2". That means you have too much tension on the WDH. Puts too much weight on the front suspension.
I think you're reading my original post wrong.

[SouthTX]

If the front fender height is say 40" unloaded and you drop the coupler on the WDH and don't hook up the spring bars the front could be 41". You want the front back to 40" or as close as possible but you don't want 39"-39-1/2". That means you have too much tension on the WDH. Puts too much weight on the front suspension.
I think you're reading my original post wrong.

Negative. The only reason the front will be higher is if there is less weight on it. We're just going to have to agree to disagree.

Best,

John

[jim1521]

You are both saying the same thing.

If it was 40" unloaded (front axle), you want to get it back to 40" loaded. If it is greater than 40" you have not transferred enough weight to the front axle. Continue to adjust the WDS until the front is back to less than or equal to 40". 39 1/2" is close enough.

Now, having said that, it's not the best way to do it. For sure it's a starting point but the only accurate way to do this is on a CAT scale. The goal is to distribute the weight as evenly as possible between the two axles. The drive axle will probably be slightly heavier than the steer axle; as long as they're within a couple hundred pounds of each other you're good to go.

[SouthTX]

You are both saying the same thing.

If it was 40" unloaded (front axle), you want to get it back to 40" loaded. If it is greater than 40" you have not transferred enough weight to the front axle. Continue to adjust the WDS until the front is back to less than or equal to 40". 39 1/2" is close enough.

Now, having said that, it's not the best way to do it. For sure it's a starting point but the only accurate way to do this is on a CAT scale. The goal is to distribute the weight as evenly as possible between the two axles. The drive axle will probably be slightly heavier than the steer axle; as long as they're within a couple hundred pounds of each other you're good to go.

Jim - almost, but not quite the same thing. Its not about the weight *distribution* per se - just don't take any weight OFF the front axle. Doesn't make any difference how much is on the rear (disregarding little details like axle ratings), just don't make the front lighter than it started out. Adding weight (or shifting from the rear, if you will) to the front is OK, just don't subtract any from the front (by failing to transfer weight with the WDH). The drive axle can be considerably higher than the unloaded weight and that's OK. Note too, that there is usually a substantial difference between the front and rear axle ratings and the rear can handle lots more.

We are in agreement on the CAT scale, though. My experience - and I don't know that it is true for all trucks/configurations - has been that reducing the front axle weight by as little as 20# is enough to change the steering/handling. Note that 20# is generally the resolution of a CAT scale. This amount of weight is to small to be measured by the height of the wheel wells.

It took me a long time to figure out how to set up my WDH properly and I still don't claim to know it all, but I know that if the front when loaded weighs less than when the truck was unloaded, the handling will be negatively affected. This may not be true for all trucks/configurations, but is a good starting place and the hitch can be tweaked after driving.

Best,

John

[Rapid1]

As long as the front is the same or more weight, you have distributed tongue weight to the front. Most trucks are higher in the back than the front so dropping the back, will also affect the front height. Just because the front is slightly higher, doesn't mean you haven't transferred some weight. But is it enough weight? Measurements only get you in the ballpark...weighing is how this is fine tuned. So, your both right...weigh it...empty and loaded...and strive for level, tow vehicle and trailer. You can usually tilt the hitch to keep level, but the bars can then impart more weight to the front. Keep in mind minimum chain links for binding issues, most say no less than 3 but I have always dialed in for at least 4. I always used chain bars...this might be a little different with bracket bars but the goal is the same. Never needed a sway device as long as the tow vehicle is loaded correctly and the tandem is level.

[jim1521]

Jim - almost, but not quite the same thing. Its not about the weight *distribution* per se - just don't take any weight OFF the front axle. Doesn't make any difference how much is on the rear (disregarding little details like axle ratings), just don't make the front lighter than it started out. Adding weight (or shifting from the rear, if you will) to the front is OK, just don't subtract any from the front (by failing to transfer weight with the WDH). The drive axle can be considerably higher than the unloaded weight and that's OK. Note too, that there is usually a substantial difference between the front and rear axle ratings and the rear can handle lots more.

John, that's a GREAT point that you make. I did not get what you were trying to say earlier. Rapid1 was speaking in inches, and you were speaking in pounds. While inches is one metric, pounds is the more important metric. So in reality it's really more important that the steer axle returns to the unloaded WEIGHT, rather than the unloaded HEIGHT.

[SouthTX]

John, that's a GREAT point that you make. I did not get what you were trying to say earlier. Rapid1 was speaking in inches, and you were speaking in pounds. While inches is one metric, pounds is the more important metric. So in reality it's really more important that the steer axle returns to the unloaded WEIGHT, rather than the unloaded HEIGHT.

NOW, we're saying the same thing. Setting up these hitches is as much art as science.

[goducks14]

Read thru Fords towing section in the owners manual. I think you'll find that Ford recommends to return at least 50% or lost weight back to the front end but not more than 100%. If 40" is the unloaded height you don't want 39". Won't matter about what the front weighs or not. If you bring the front back to 50% or less then you've achieved all that necessary.

[TucsonJim]

And just when you think you have it all figured out, other drivers start flashing their brights at you because you're blinding them.

Jim