I want to move the electrical ground connection in my front storage

**blueroad55** · 04-19-2018, 07:49 AM

I'm adding a second battery to my 303 and found that the ground connector is buried in the corner where it's difficult to get to. I'm considering moving it a few inches closer to the center of the front compartment and maybe use a bus bar to make future connections easier.

1. is there another thread that I haven't found that would help with this?

2. if there isn't another thread, can anyone help with the procedure for making sure I make a good connection to the frame?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Don

**Cate&Rob** · 04-19-2018, 08:02 AM

Don - I used a stainless steel carriage bolt through the (wood) back wall to become my common ground point for batteries, inverter and auxiliary circuits in the front compartment. Secured to the wall with a nut and large flat washed and then another nut and washer securely clamping the wire terminals between the two nuts. The existing chassis ground wire goes to this common point and I confirmed a good connection with my ohm meter. Negative cables from each battery also go to the common point so that there is only one cable connection to each battery terminal. See attached from a while ago . . .

Rob

**blueroad55** · 04-19-2018, 08:11 AM

Rob, Thank you for the help on my question and all the other questions on the forum!!

**gbkims** · 04-19-2018, 08:16 AM

I moved mine. I ran a #6 wire from the original frame ground to new ground bus bar.
Made sure the paint was scraped off under the lug at the frame and put a bit of NoAlox on the steel for low resistance connection.
Rob's ss stud was what 1st came to mind. BlueSea has various ground products from single stud to terminals
Power Post: https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...ost_Connectors
BusBars: https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/BusBars

Gene

**TucsonJim** · 04-19-2018, 10:49 AM

I'll be installing buss bars for both ground and power connections this weekend. Mine is a travel trailer, but the concept is the same. GD likes to make lots of connections using either twist on connectors or small stud connections. Take a look at this power distribution connector:

As for chassis ground, they run one wire from the frame and then tie into it with a twist on connector:

I just purchased Fastronix power and ground distribution bars for cleaning this up. They come in either 5/16" or 3/8" terminals and have a screw on cap:

If you're going to be moving the ground connection and cleaning things up, I'd look into the BlueSea products that Kim points to above or a solution like I'm going to use from Fastronix.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jim

**Cate&Rob** · 04-19-2018, 11:34 AM

Jim - The pictures of your OE wiring just make me cringe! From a marine ABYC perspective there are so many things wrong, I wouldn't even know where to start. The red, black and white wires coming together with single crimp "dry location only" terminals covered in road grime is just mind boggling. What do these connection points look like on trailers towed on salted roads

.

Your buss bar plan is good, but it won't be water tight so you are going to have to plan for that. To paraphrase the marine requirements, the wire to terminal must have two means of connection. (Standard terminals as in the picture only have one crimp) The easiest way to meet that marine requirement (not that you have to on an RV) is to get the terminals that have a heat shrink tube attached to them. The shrink tube to the wire insulation is a valid second means of connection and takes the strain off the terminal barrel to wire connection. A ratcheting crimp tool with proper inserts is equally important. (See picture) The simple squeeze pliers don't enclose the connector barrel to properly crimp it. This is why the wires are often loose in terminals secured this way.

Take lots of before and after pictures

.

Rob

**TucsonJim** · 04-19-2018, 02:57 PM

Rob - I have the same pliers for multiple gauge work. And I just received a bunch of heat shrink tubing. All current connections will be removed and properly crimped and heat shrunk connections will be made, just like I did in the 7-way box. I'm not going to re-wire the trailer to standardize the colors of the wire, but I'll use red shrink on all the positive connections, and black on the negative.

The road grime has me a little confused. All these connections are underneath the front storage bay, and above the A-frame. They shouldn't have a lot of grime or water flung up there. I guess if I'm running on wet roads, the rear tires of the TV will create a dirty mist that can settle in that area. The area is pretty accessible, so routine cleaning will need to be part of my maintenance schedule. What do you think about covering the terminals with some kind of sealant? If so, do you have any recommendations for any certain type?

I'll certainly photograph the progress.

Jim

**Cate&Rob** · 04-19-2018, 03:37 PM

Originally Posted by TucsonJim

What do you think about covering the terminals with some kind of sealant? If so, do you have any recommendations for any certain type?

Jim - I wouldn't try to seal those connections. I have tried that in the past with "liquid electrical tape" and silicone . . . and all this does is create pockets that hold moisture. Plus making it really difficult to take apart if you ever want to. It looks like the studs and nuts are stainless and your electrical terminals will probably be coated copper or brass. These materials won't corrode. I would go with remembering to flush this area with a little soap and water every once in a while. The only thing I might use at assembly is some dielectric grease.

Rob