How to destroy a fifth wheel hitch

[Cate&Rob]

I should have installed the hitch myself, but since it was my first 5er, I was nervous about messing something up!

About 5 years ago, I felt that I should hire “professionals” to install stuff that I had never done before. Then I talked with the “professionals” and . . . about 4 1/2 years ago I was drilling 1/2” diameter holes in the bed of a truck with 50 miles on the odometer because I didn’t trust any of the “professionals” to do it right. Trust you instincts.

Rob

[Ctdecuir]

Wise words, Rob. I know who will be installing the next hitch I purchase!

[CWSWine]

Was at the dealers pickup so fittings and saw they had 3 foot red flags on the bolts that lock the hitch on GD 220. Probably not a bad idea and maybe others dealer should take note.

[Rapid1]

We had a similar situation when we picked up our 307 last year. We have a Pullrite Autoslide hitch which requires an adaptor plate to be installed on the pin box. It includes the wedge to lock the pin box to the hitch. As you make a turn, the hitch head turns and slides on the hitch base towards the back of the truck bed.

In my case, the dealer failed to install the adaptor plate. As we were maneuvering out of their parking lot, there was a loud bang as the truck jerked forward when I slowed to a stop. My salesman was riding in a golf cart next to us. I saw is eyes get big as saucers. He said don't move and headed for the garage to get a service tech. By the time he got back I had determined the adaptor plate was missing. Fortunately, no damage was done.

I have the same hitch and knowing that the dealer couldn't move the trailer with it on, I removed it myself and reinstalled it when I picked the coach up. I think it is part of the program to check and be sure, yourself, that everything is as it needs to be before you move at all. Sorry, but your inspection of your unit and it's expected operation falls on you. Most, if not all dealers move coaches around with a fork lift, where special hitch attachments or operational characteristics will need to be removed or disabled.

Again, not trying to offend but trying to make sure we all check ourselves to make sure our setup is exactly as it should be, not relying on anyone else.

[cmillsbl]

Rapid1- no offense taken. I agree completely. My first "lesson learned" before I was even off the dealer lot.

[butch50]

I have the same hitch and knowing that the dealer couldn't move the trailer with it on, I removed it myself and reinstalled it when I picked the coach up. I think it is part of the program to check and be sure, yourself, that everything is as it needs to be before you move at all. Sorry, but your inspection of your unit and it's expected operation falls on you. Most, if not all dealers move coaches around with a fork lift, where special hitch attachments or operational characteristics will need to be removed or disabled.

Again, not trying to offend but trying to make sure we all check ourselves to make sure our setup is exactly as it should be, not relying on anyone else.

I have a Reese Sidewinder and it uses the wedge also. When I took the trailer in for warranty I put the lock bolts in and take the wedge off and it goes into my truck tool box.

When I pick it up I take lockout bolts out and put the wedge on myself. That way if something happens it is my fault. I carry my torque wrench so I can torque it down to specs. I had to buy my own lockouts as they didn't come with the pin box. I had to go to Fastnal (Lowes didn't have the size I needed) and buy the bolts as I needed 9" X 1/2" bolts. I had to buy 10" grade 8 because the didn't have 9". These were some expensive bolts. The standard Reese Sidewinder came with lockout bolts but not my Airborne. The standards are a lot shorter.

The reason the dealers put in lockout bolts is most places use a forklift (or similar) to move the trailers around.

[GLSchmidt]

Latest update on this: so far the dealer seems to be stepping up. They are arranging for transport of the trailer back to their shop so that they can do a complete inspection of the pin box and structure to determine how much needs to be repaired/replaced. Also making arrangements to replace the damaged parts of the hitch.

[Ctdecuir]

Great idea, Butch. I remember sweating it - seeing our dealer use a forklift to move our 230RL and knowing that the pivot point was at the trailer (with lockout bolts removed). I will put this on my ever-growing list of things to check and manage when visiting the dealer for warranty work!

[grampscamper]

It's great that the dealer is accepting responsibility and fixing everything, as they should. In addition to replacing the obvious damaged parts on your hitch I would closely examine the parts that aren't so obvious. The twisting force on the hitch would have been extreme to shear those bolts off.
All the best with the repairs.
Bob

[Dawgfever]

Man oh man, the learning curve on RVs is steep and sometimes expensive. Makes one wonder “what’s next?” as every trip can be an adventure. ��