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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper
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    With the auto leveler system on my fiver I just use "drop front" and it takes some weight off the hitch so I can unhook. I don't mind a little weight still on the hitch as I pull out from under the trailer. I've never had the trailer come too close to my bedrails doing this.

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper chunker's Avatar
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    Personally I would be careful to make sure the load is off the hitch before pulling out. Too much weight on the hitch and when the trailer "falls" off the landing gear could be damaged. Too much weight on the landing gear and lifting the truck could drag the landing gear with damage. Me, I'll get a gap between the lube plate and hitch before pulling out.

  3. #13
    We Have a Great Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    Instructions we got with our hitch was to watch for a 1/16th" gap to unhitch.
    Marcy & Gary
    2014 Grand Design - Reflection 303RLS
    2022 GMC 3500 Denali Duramax Longbed SRW
    2015 GMC Denali 3500 - Retired
    2003 F350 - retired
    Michigan
    We're in trouble now, the dog are bloggin'!
    https://3dogsandatrailer.wordpress.com/


  4. #14
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunker View Post
    I just picked up a 2015 GD Solitude and my girlfriend has a 2012 PT Crusader, both 5th wheels. Hers has the Trail Air roto-flex and mine a standard Lippert? I think pin box. I have the B&W Companion hitch. With both it is very difficult to tell when the load has come off the hitch when attempting to disconnect when I have new 10" Curt lube plates on. The plates are a standard white nylon or plastic and 3/16". On a previous 5th wheel, 2011 Raptor and a Reese 16K hitch, when I raised the front legs there was a distinct gap between the hitch and pin box, also used a lube plate on it. I really don't want to go back to a greasy hitch but getting tired of going back and forth to wiggle the release arm on the hitch to see if it's loose yet. Towing both are nice and tight which is good and the old Reese was very sloppy and chucky.

    With the B&W hitch and these pin boxes is there a secret to easier unhitching? Hitching is easy.
    __________________
    I have marks on my landing gear to get me close (both the adjustable portion and driven portion)- use them to get close to the correct hook up height, which in my case with my new Reese Titan 20K hitch is 1/2" below the plate so the trailer needs to ride up to lock. I also find I need a smidgen of down pressure to unlock too so I use the same marks again. This hitch has a built in plastic lube plate. Tolerance are so tight that using a separate one will prevent the hitch for locking.
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  5. #15
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by chunker View Post
    Personally I would be careful to make sure the load is off the hitch before pulling out. Too much weight on the hitch and when the trailer "falls" off the landing gear could be damaged. Too much weight on the landing gear and lifting the truck could drag the landing gear with damage. Me, I'll get a gap between the lube plate and hitch before pulling out.
    I have a F350 DRW with airbags/auto pump, and B&W hitch. When i'm ready to unhook, before getting out of my cab, i make my airbags drop all air down to 10lbs and then start my unhooking process. Chock wheels, drop tailgate, open side door for leveling switches and by then, the air is all out and makes it easier as you raise the front of the camper to see that "gap". I too use the white lube plate and have no issues creating/seeing that gap. Then i open the jaws and pin them open as well.
    Tom and Stacey
    TV - 2008 F350 Lariat DRW, 6.4 (done up) 8"bed, B&W3000 OEM Companion, Firestone Airbags w/ Wireless One compressor
    RV - 2018 GD Momentum 351M

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