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  1. #11
    Seasoned Camper ncitro's Avatar
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    I'd recommend either glueing it or possibly putting a screw threw it if glue seems too permanent, I've had mine come off when turning it on occasion.
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  2. #12
    Big Traveler SouthTX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by traveldawg View Post
    And it seems the grey tank 1 (bathroom/shower) doesn't drain all the way as there is a always 1/3 in it. Probably gonna drain with the camper unleveled toward the drain to see how that works.
    Are you sure it's not a sensor problem? Easy to check the tank capacity with a hose end water meter.
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  3. #13
    Fireside Member
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    This is on my growing list of deficiencies. New trailer so no black stuff in the black tank. Opened the black tank valve and ran the flusher for over 2 minutes, (which is leaking profusely out of the vapour/check valve in the wall between the pantry and shower) before anything came out, I could clearly hear the water running in the tank from the soil pipe outlet. I then ran the shower for over 2 min before anything started coming out, repeat for kitchen sink. When I lifted the front of the trailer by 6 inches it started to flow much more quickly. Guessing the soil pipe does not have enough fall from the 3 tanks!
    Note leak pic is sideways
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #14
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    More testing required......
    > Put the twist-on Valter valve on end of dischard pipe (it needs to have something done so it doesn’t twist off at an inopportune time)
    > Both black and gray 1 (shower) tanks only drain to 1/4 in level and either high right or left side (haven’t tried front to back tilting)
    > Still getting slow drip after turning off valves
    > Still get solids flushing after draining black tank when draining gray 1
    > can just leave off cap on drain pipe and no residual water remind in lines upon arriving at next destination

    Like I said - more testing needed. Will notify GD of defective drain situation when we get back home next week to see what words of wisdom they have.
    Larry KE4DMG
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  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper Bob/OlallaWA's Avatar
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    With all the stuff that can be wrong with a new RV, having the drain lines draining at whatever position the rv is in as far as level would be very near the bottom of my list of complaints. I always use the front to rear jack to raise and lower the rig as well as be sure the rv is leaning slightly toward the drain side. Also added a knife valve at the exit cap so no surprises when it is time to drain the tanks.
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  6. #16
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob/OlallaWA View Post
    With all the stuff that can be wrong with a new RV, having the drain lines draining at whatever position the rv is in as far as level would be very near the bottom of my list of complaints. I always use the front to rear jack to raise and lower the rig as well as be sure the rv is leaning slightly toward the drain side. Also added a knife valve at the exit cap so no surprises when it is time to drain the tanks.
    Nowhere near the top on my list, however GD told me to not travel with to much fresh water in the fresh water tank so as to help my ccc and not be overweight with my 7000lb axles, traveling around with 5-10 gal not draining out of all 3 tanks would add up. I surely do not want to lower my front jacks enough to drain my tanks every time at the pump out, not to mention, not advisable to do when hitched!!

  7. #17
    Fireside Member TerryZechman's Avatar
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    I added a gate valve during my last trip. Stopped at Home Depot to pick up some plumbers tape and used the existing bolts on the new valve to secure it.



    Added a self tapping screw to keep it from twisting off when connecting/disconnecting the hose. You can see the screw in this picture on the Solitude pipe just behind the valve tang.

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  8. #18
    Site Team traveldawg's Avatar
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    I ended up adding a Valter Valve as ncitro did. No matter what I tried (tilting rig or waiting) about 2 to 3 quarts of liquid built up in the capped off drain pipe when traveling after draining the tanks.

    So I give Grand Design an "F" grade for drain design on my 310GK-R. Too bad. I've owned at least 6 RVs in the last 30 years and this is a first.

    I put a hose clamp around the Valtera valve to keep it coming off when either removing the cap to connect the drain hose, or when connecting/disconnecting the drain hose. And wouldn't you now it - it popped off today soaking the floor in my garage with stinky water as I was securing it! Argh! An "F" failing grade is being kind I think.

    I had to build up the drain pipe so when I cinched down the clamp on the tabs on the valve they weren't stressed. I just used a few wraps of thick electrical tape. The valve holds tight now but I can still twist the valve to position the handle conveniently it if I want without worrying about it coming off.

    Sorry about those sideways photos.....
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    Larry KE4DMG
    2022 F-350 KRU SRW LB - Airlift 5000+, ForScan, 37 RDS Aux Tank,
    2019 310GK-R - Sailuns; MorRyde IS; Disc Brakes; 20K Reese Goosebox
    Search kalakamods for my mods


  9. #19
    Fireside Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob/OlallaWA View Post
    With all the stuff that can be wrong with a new RV, having the drain lines draining at whatever position the rv is in as far as level would be very near the bottom of my list of complaints. I always use the front to rear jack to raise and lower the rig as well as be sure the rv is leaning slightly toward the drain side. Also added a knife valve at the exit cap so no surprises when it is time to drain the tanks.
    Well, this managed to get to the top of my extensive list of deficiencies, FYI the dealer said tanks drained fine when in for warranty!
    When I went to head south after picking up the trailer from the dealer after 4 months of repairs! the gate valves would not close on the lower shower gray tank and the black tank. They were left open from the dealers testing. There was so much heal left in the tanks it froze the valves open. After pouring 5 gallons of hot water down the drains I was able to close the gate valves. I am now down in South Padre Texas and decided to see how GD plumbed the tanks. Not surprised, the soil pipes angle upwards as they leave the holding tanks so as to allow the manifold to exit through the rear bulkhead channel. This leaves several inches of heal in the gray and black tanks. This explains why it takes for ever for the trickling to stop when dumping the tanks, unless you disconnect the truck and lift the front of the trailer 6 to 8 ". I like that this allows better ground clearance for the discharge pipe, but there is no way I want my tanks to drain so poorly. Also the guy behind you at the dump station will be pissed when he see's you unhook the trailer to drain the tanks properly!
    Note the lovely corrosion on our new trailer that has been sanded and repainted under warranty!!!

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    Last edited by clubsmity; 12-12-2018 at 05:46 PM. Reason: attaching pics

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