Plumbing System Rebuild - 2015 Reflection 303RLS

[Cate&Rob]

Hi again Rob,

First off, can I really pre-build the Nautilus components prior to replacement ??
Are their numbers to be trusted or better to re-build in place section at a time ??

Secondly, can you recommend what brand tools I'll need and the most economical place to find parts and those tools ??

Hi Michael,

I have never built a "new" Nautilus panel, but their instruction manual seems very detailed. I would build the new one before taking apart the old one. Thus, you can check the routing of each new line as you add it to the new panel.

The crimp rings and crimping tool are becoming very common. You can get a "starter kit" at any Home Depot or similar.

Rob

[Jims94vmx]

I got all my items needed and got a new panel. worked off my kitchen island last week. got the panel done, but have to find time to go underneath.

I have a thread detailing it better.....with some takeaways. "Brainstorming" thread i believe....

[Cate&Rob]

First off, can I really pre-build the Nautilus components prior to replacement ??
Michael

Edit:

Hi Michael . . . I was mixing up your plan and Jim's. Jim has a new panel to work with.
If you are rebuilding the original panel you obviously have to remove the old plumbing before you can install the new.
This is what I did with my Kantleak panel and this will also work . . . just take lots of pictures before you start .

Rob

[Da Breeze]

Edit:

Hi Michael . . . I was mixing up your plan and Jim's. Jim has a new panel to work with.
If you are rebuilding the original panel you obviously have to remove the old plumbing before you can install the new.
This is what I did with my Kantleak panel and this will also work . . . just take lots of pictures before you start .

Rob

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your guidance in this. My biggest concern is procedure.
I'm afraid I'm developing analysis paralysis !!!

Are you saying to remove one section at a time, from the panel, photo where it connects , re-build it and move onto the next underlying section ??

It appears from the P1 .pdf, there is an assembly procedure to follow and I would assume the re-build would have to move in reverse for dis-assembly, rebuild that "section"....and then reassemble the sections in order per the P1 instructions ??? Is that correct ??
It is daunting in that once removed and rebuilt there is no margin for modification, as where some lines may not be fully accessible for future repairs, if needed, to the panel fittings.
I'd like to have more room to access the panel's connections and the P1 numbers will only leave me with what access I have now.
Your work seems to have afforded you that access (even though Kant Leak is less complicated.)

While I don't have the luxury of working at leisure in my yard (as the rig is in storage). I could work there a little at a time, but I might forget something when I'm away from the work flow.
I'm like you in that, being a cabinetmaker for forty odd years, I'm something of a perfectionist and worked with very close tolerances.
It always feels like a handicap when doing other, less demanding, projects where I can utilize additional 1/8" or 1/4" clearances.

Then, I see these manifolds, some have incorporated, and would like to utilize that concept to reduce the copious t-fittings while I'm in process, so that complicates things as well.
I'm probably "overthinking" this, but struggling with a plan of action that will yield similar results such as yours.

Sorry for the rant, but trying to get my head around this thing so I can move forward with confidence.

Thanks Rob,

Michael

[Cate&Rob]

Are you saying to remove one section at a time, from the panel, photo where it connects , re-build it and move onto the next underlying section ??

Hi Michael,

My thought on "take lots of pictures" was to take these pictures before you disassemble anything, then remove the original Nautilus panel and rebuild following the connections from your pictures (and the Nautilus plumbing instructions)

Once the panel plumbing is removed, what is left is easy to understand.
1) A single line to/from the water tank
2) the cold feed to all the fixtures and the water heater (this is where a manifold could be used)
3) the hot feed to all the fixtures is really not part of the water panel, but should be considered in the rebuild (another manifold could be used)
4) the city water connection is part of the panel.
5) the water heater bypass (this is a single valve for Kantleak . . . not exactly sure how Nautilus does this)

Have a read through Jamey Matheny's simplified design. https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...Matheny-System His explanation of "figure out where the water is coming from and where you want it to go to" is excellent!

Rob

[Da Breeze]

I think Brian is right on this. The Nautilus system was touted as the "fix" for the Kantleak system. The first time that I looked at the back of the Nautilus, I thought . . . sure am glad I don't have to sort out that mess

"Patching up" either of these systems is a thankless and never ending job. Although it seems "daunting" at the onset, take a few days, rip out everything and start over with quality parts and an organized plan. The tools, parts and skills required are actually very basic. At the end, you will have a rock solid system that you fully understand and that you can stop worrying about .

Rob

LOL Rob....

That's EXACTLY how I feel !!!

Your inspirational words above are my new mantra moving forward.
I'll just keep repeating this over and over while I rip it all out and PRAY I don't forget a picture in haste.
Hey, what about color coding the panel's connections with nail polish..... just as insurance ???? ..Wife has plenty of that !!!

Then...even I couldn't screw this project up

So taking out the entire panel and re-building it offsite may very well do the trick as I'll have Nautilus installation .pdf to follow as referendum.
I can leave the hookups a little longer to route them more neatly to the trailer's feed lines.

We're getting there Master Yoda

Bless you Rob,
Lots of good Karma heading your way !!
Michael

[Ditchdigger]

I like what you have done. Now can you come and do mine? you are the

[Jims94vmx]

the back of the panel is actually labeled. still take pics and don't crimp anything until you are sure it fits with no binding.....i found the measurements in the pdf pretty close but built each section and dry fitted it then crimped it.....really wasn't too bad. i still have to get in there and finish.....panel done so that for me was a good start....LOL

[Da Breeze]

the back of the panel is actually labeled. still take pics and don't crimp anything until you are sure it fits with no binding.....i found the measurements in the pdf pretty close but built each section and dry fitted it then crimped it.....really wasn't too bad. i still have to get in there and finish.....panel done so that for me was a good start....LOL

Thanks Jim and nice job..

In my situation, it's a remove and replace so a bit more complicated knowing how to go about it.
As Rob has suggested, I intend to start by removing one line from the service trunks at a time, at their T fittings and eventually remove the entire panel to work on a flat surface.
I have a few questions that I hope you can assist with...

I see you left the service feed lines long, I guess to allow for any mods where they connect to the service trunk lines ???

IDK why the P1 instructions call for installing the cold harness first, when it appears to sit above the other harnesses ??? Seems easier to install lower harnesses first ???

Also, the HW to out shower has a brass 90 elbow and is the only one. Was there a reason you did that in particular ??

Do you plan on using any manifolds to feed the HW bath, shower, kitchen, possibly panel connection as well from HW heater ?? 4 port manifold.
How about using a manifold (as Rob has suggested ) for feeding the toilet, shower, bath sink, kit sink, service lines ?? 4 port manifold

I imagine 90 elbows or couplings would replace the t fittings but IDK if I want to get that far into this, I really just want a dry camper LOL !!!!!!
seriously, Rob raises very logical points about future, and inevitable, access to the other appliances back there.
Ya gotta love that guy !!!

Thanks

Michael

[Jims94vmx]

Thanks Jim and nice job..

In my situation, it's a remove and replace so a bit more complicated knowing how to go about it.
As Rob has suggested, I intend to start by removing one line from the service trunks at a time, at their T fittings and eventually remove the entire panel to work on a flat surface.
I have a few questions that I hope you can assist with...

I see you left the service feed lines long, I guess to allow for any mods where they connect to the service trunk lines ???

figured I could cut down as needed.

IDK why the P1 instructions call for installing the cold harness first, when it appears to sit above the other harnesses ??? Seems easier to install lower harnesses first ???


I did cold last, but just slightly threaded each connector to make sure nothing bound up or was in the way of each other.


Also, the HW to out shower has a brass 90 elbow and is the only one. Was there a reason you did that in particular ??


Figured it would hold up to higher Temps and not get brittle.


Do you plan on using any manifolds to feed the HW bath, shower, kitchen, possibly panel connection as well from HW heater ?? 4 port manifold.
How about using a manifold (as Rob has suggested ) for feeding the toilet, shower, bath sink, kit sink, service lines ?? 4 port manifold


No, got my head spinning....so just rebuilt the way it SHOULD have been from the factory.



I imagine 90 elbows or couplings would replace the t fittings but IDK if I want to get that far into this, I really just want a dry camper LOL !!!!!!
seriously, Rob raises very logical points about future, and inevitable, access to the other appliances back there.
Ya gotta love that guy !!!

Thanks

Michael

Tried answering after each question. Hope it helps. Biggest item is do not crimp until you get the correct lengths and dry fit. Don't want to stress any of the plastic connectors.

I am willing to ship my panel to whoever wants it to for cost of shipping. I am hoping to dig into the finishing connections this week. Cleaned out my storage bay today.

1st answer turned red, thought the others would follow......stupid tablet!
I left space to show answers....