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07-23-2018, 12:15 PM #21
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You're right, it is a verticle problem, but by reversing the coupler you're actually getting more clearance between the bed rails and the pinbox wings.
When my truck was new, I had the AUH in the lower position and that gave me about 6" of bedrail clearance. If I raised the AUH I was way nose high. However, I went through a dip/turn that caused the wings to just barely graze the plastic bedrail and tailgate. That got my attention and I turned the adapter around which solved that problem, but I wasn't comfortable with the tailgate clearance.
The solution for me was to swap the stock (3") F350 axle blocks for (1.5") F250 blocks. That allowed me to return the hitch adapter to the front position and regain the tailgate clearance. I then raised the AUH to the middle position and I was back to the original height, but I now had more than 7 inches of bedrail clearance. My fiver is about 1.5" nose high, but the axle weights are within 20# of each other so I don't care.John and Jean
Springer Spaniel furkids Mea and (the late) Molly
Blogs - BataanMissing.com - AirSafety.info
2017 Ford F-350 6.7L CC SB, Andersen Ultimate Hitch.
2018 Reflection 337RLS fifth wheel.
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07-23-2018, 12:22 PM #22
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07-23-2018, 12:22 PM #23
When considering which way your Andersen adapter should go, see the pictures with posts 16 & 17 by Torch1972 on this thread. https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...-towing/page3?
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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07-23-2018, 12:30 PM #24
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Thanks John,
I also read your post in the F350 area.
This may ? be the answer but I’ll likely need to have an experienced shop or dealer mess with that potential configuration. Tough for me to arrange etc. I had the dealer install the coupler and a another outfitter install the Anderson frame in the pick up. Also I wonder if the Turning Point hitch on this Reflection 150 series would configure differently than yours...
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07-23-2018, 12:49 PM #25
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Reversing the hitch adapter is pretty simple - just loosen the four recessed hex head bolts with an Allan wrench and you can swing it around.
I didn't catch the make of your truck so I don't know if it will be as simple as my F350. Talk to a speed shop or shop that does lifts and they'll know exactly what you need and may even have takeoffs. I think it took them all of 15 minutes to install mine.
We had quite a discussion of bed rail RV overhang heights. The 2017 and newer Fords all seem to be 59". Most of the GD fifthwheel overhang measurements seem to be 59" to 61". The F350's squat abut 3" so you can do the math for your truck.John and Jean
Springer Spaniel furkids Mea and (the late) Molly
Blogs - BataanMissing.com - AirSafety.info
2017 Ford F-350 6.7L CC SB, Andersen Ultimate Hitch.
2018 Reflection 337RLS fifth wheel.
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07-23-2018, 01:06 PM #26
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3Gs - Not to carry your AUH point of the thread much more but thought you may want to see these pictures. We too have the manual front electric jack system.....we do not have auto level.
As Rob pointed out, we too have varying degrees of pin hole selection depending on the ultimate leveling needs. Attached first two pictures show in our sloped driveway, we need to extend our jacks (both tubes) more than usual to have RV level. Now when next to the garage in picture 3 on our RV pad, not so much. We have also had camp sites where we have had to drop the nose more than usual to get level as noted in picture 4.
DanDan & Carol
2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
2700/16K Pullrite Superglide
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07-23-2018, 01:51 PM #27
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07-23-2018, 02:37 PM #28
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Thanks for the additional photos.
At current camp site in Asheville NC.....In order to remove the hitch off the AUH ball on my truck had to place the landing leg in the 16th (from bottom) pin hole and raise up sooooo high... and that is sitting on top of 3-3/4” of wood! If those scissor jacks weren’t extended I think I’d be rolling now as said previously can’t get the nose down to level.
I’ll need to watch it real close when hooking back up!
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07-23-2018, 03:23 PM #29
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With 18" or so of throw in the powered section, then dropping the lower portion so the jack pad is 10" off ground BEFORE extending the powered section should work.
So to unhitch powered section would extend; 10" before the pads hit the ground, 3" of lift to release the sag with weight off and another 5" for the coupler to clear the Andersen ball. 10+3+5=18"
Once it's clear of the Andersen ball and you've pulled the truck away you would be able to drop the front (retract the jacks) a full 18"Jerry & Linda
Emma & Abby our Mini Golden Doodles & JR our Amazon Parrot
2017 Reflection 337RLS, Build Date 01/2017, Titan Disk Brakes, Goodyear G614s 235/85/16 G Rated tires
2022 F-450 King Ranch Ultimate, 4,868 lb Payload, Bedrug Bedliner, Andersen Ultimate II Aluminum 5th wheel hitch
http://visitedstatesmap.com/image/FLGANCSCsm.jpg
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07-24-2018, 06:18 AM #30
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So if I understand correctly, you are suggesting 10” of blocking under the jack pads?
Also the same 10” amount if the site is not level- for example an angular slope in 2 opposing directions: when unhitching and the truck bed rear is a bit higher and also nose of FW trailer is also higher? That is to visualize the unhitch point “at top of the mountain”
Channging Battery Type?
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