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Thread: Booster for Satellite Signal
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09-30-2018, 09:55 AM #11
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Since I had two Wallys and takes two different pieces of coax 100-foot long this is what I went with and worked great. I didn't want to deal with two separate pieces of cable to hook up both wallys.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
I use this reel and only reel out what I need. Works for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1Dennis & Ellie
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09-30-2018, 10:32 AM #12
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RG6QS coax that is solid copper center conductor is what I'd used for home, and would use for rv satellite cable.
The dish's LNBF Low Noise Block Converter needs DC Volts to operate & switch bands, the resistance of the coax could come into play on longer runs.
When I was reterminating some of the RV's OEM coax, I'm pretty sure it was copper-coated steel.
Belden 7916A DBS Cable, RG6, 18 AWG BC, Quad Shield = Solid Copper Center Conductor
https://catalog.belden.com/techdata/...A_techdata.pdf
Belden 1189A CATV Video, RG6, 18 AWG BCCS, Quad Shield = Bare Copper-Coated Steel Center Conductor
https://catalog.belden.com/techdata/...A_techdata.pdf
Gene- Gene
Kim & Gene
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09-30-2018, 10:50 AM #13
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Thanks everyone. Looks like I've got my work cutout, checking all the connections on the rv. The 50 ft cable is the cable that came with the King Tailgater. I have checked the cable with a cable tester and it tested ok. I don't kink it either. Thanks, KEN
Backpacker and tent camper all my life, including BSA as a kid and adult.
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10-02-2018, 02:37 PM #14
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The Dish sat system recommends the signal doesn't go through splitters, it wants a cable straight to the dish antenna from the box. I have Dish Networks (Wally and Playmaker antenna). A couple of negatives for the GD rigs is they don't tighten the cable connections and use inexpensive cable/connectors, etc.
Here is what I did in my 303.
So my TV and sat box (Wally) is in my slide above the fireplace. I took out the fireplace, drilled a hole in the floor of the slide on the far outboard side and ran a new high quality RJ6 cable from the Wally location in the cabinet through there, sealed the hole and installed a new connection in the lower skirt in the side near the wheel well. So now I only have one connection between my antenna and the Wally. Now I don't have any issues getting connected and have used 100' of cable with no issues.
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11-04-2018, 03:24 PM #15
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Chuck, thanks for the suggestion. I have a 337rls and my TV & sat box are also above the fireplace. I plan to modify my slide with a direct connect to my Dish Tailgater PRO like you suggest. I have been running my coax through the rear side window next to the sofa and connecting directly to my Wally receiver. Ugly solution and DW doesn't like 'visible' wires to TV or Wally. I have been able to get the internal SAT connection in the Nautilus P1 panel only when using a short (25') coax run. I pulled the wall panel and found that the internal SAT coax run that connected to this connector was not even hand tight. I have not tried using this connection since I tightened. I have been able to use up to a 100' length of coax with a direct connect to the receiver. If you can power the SAT antenna with the coax, then the length should be OK even though Dish says only use 50' max.
Next, I need to figure out how to pull the fireplace. Can't be too difficult because almost all the 40" Furrion fireplace units have to be replaced. I'm getting my second replacement in a few weeks. Maybe I can get my dealer to make this mod while replacing the fireplace...David & Sandra
Honey: 10 year old miniature dachshund
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11-04-2018, 05:22 PM #16
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Easy to get the fireplace out. I believe there are just two screws at the top that allow the removal of the bezel around the FP. The trick is that they are kind of at an angle and it is hard to get a phillips screwdriver on them. Try using a #1 phillips with a smaller shaft. Once you get them started they come right out. After the bezel is off there are just four screws holding the FP in place.
Like you, I found the Dish doesn't like connections. I mounted my tailgater on the roof on a removable mount and ran the coax down the side where it is covered by the slide flange when it is closed. There are usually a whole handful of cables that come up through the floor of the slide that are secured with black foam. Poke a hole in the foam and bring the coax up into the slide behind the fireplace and coil up the extra. On those rare sites where I need to move the tailgater off the roof to get a clear shot, I run another coax through the slide seal.John and Jean
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11-05-2018, 07:13 PM #17
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I pulled my fireplace today and ran a 12' length of quad shield coax from my receiver [in the cabinet above the tv] out through the bottom of the slide. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the slide floor near the back (left side) of the slide in the heater cabinet compartment below the TV and dropped about eight inches of the coax through the hole. I sealed this new coax/hole with a premium acrylic caulk. I tested the new connection with a 50' length of coax from my SAT antenna [Dish Tailgater PRO] to the new Coax connection and ran through the DISH setup procedure. It found the western arc satellites and connected as I had hoped it would. Now I have only one coax connection between the SAT antenna and the receiver and it is one that I put in. I no longer have to go direct to the receiver through the window or hope the Nautilus panel SAT connection and the GD installed internal coax will connect. I did not have time today to try my 100' length of cable. HAPPY TV TIME!
David & Sandra
Honey: 10 year old miniature dachshund
2018 Reflection 337 RLS (Mfg date: 07/24/2017)
2011 Chevy Silverado "LTZ" 3500 HD
4x4 Crew Cab DRW 6.6L Duramax LML/Allison
Payload sticker: 4875#
Curt Q20 Hitch w/ R20 Slider
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11-05-2018, 07:33 PM #18
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I did this last summer and couldn't be happier with our dish Playmaker. Wouldn't hook up with the panel wiring and hooks up every time now. We run the bedroom tv on air antenna or cable.
Too windy?
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