RV is shocking me!!

[CoChris]

Very glad you found the problem and it was an easy fix (once found). Thank you for letting us know the cause.

I hope you double checked the ground wire continuity all the way to the exterior 50 amp plug. I would expect if everything was working correctly and the ground wire at the outlet touched the hot terminal (or wire) that would cause a direct short and trip the breaker. Check the ground wiring at both the breaker panel and at the plug. It should be completely separate (not connection) to either of the two hot leads or the neutral in the trailer. If you are on shore power (or a generator) the ground and neutral should be bonded (connected) at a point external to the trailer.

Chris

[howson]

Hey guys, here is what the problem was .....

At the Texas rally on 10/27 I had a bedroom outlet replaced by one of the GD techs ...... problem is the ground wire was not properly trimmed and was wrapped around and touching the hot conductor/terminal. I had an electrician repair this outlet and the problem was resolved.

It took us a few hours to find the problem because I never imagined it to be the replaced outlet.

Thanks everyone for the concern and tips!!

Really appreciate you taking the time to follow up and let us know what fixed it.

[Country Campers]

Rule #3 ..... Always suspect the last change made when something stops working.

btw...... Rule #1 .... never believe anyone who said "...I already checked that..." when starting your own diagnosis of a problem

Glad to hear you got things fixed!

Quick question, Is rule number 2 "call the plumber"?

Brian

[Country Campers]

Thanks for the update. On our first trip in our camper I lost power to the theater seats. Found that one of the plugs had a bad connection inside. The paper surrounding the ground wire was stuck in between the contact and black wire. These receptacles are terrible. Just my opinion.

Brian

[orbiker]

Hey guys, here is what the problem was .....

At the Texas rally on 10/27 I had a bedroom outlet replaced by one of the GD techs ...... problem is the ground wire was not properly trimmed and was wrapped around and touching the hot conductor/terminal. I had an electrician repair this outlet and the problem was resolved.

It took us a few hours to find the problem because I never imagined it to be the replaced outlet.

Thanks everyone for the concern and tips!!

Very glad you found the problem and it was an easy fix (once found). Thank you for letting us know the cause.

I hope you double checked the ground wire continuity all the way to the exterior 50 amp plug. I would expect if everything was working correctly and the ground wire at the outlet touched the hot terminal (or wire) that would cause a direct short and trip the breaker. Check the ground wiring at both the breaker panel and at the plug. It should be completely separate (not connection) to either of the two hot leads or the neutral in the trailer. If you are on shore power (or a generator) the ground and neutral should be bonded (connected) at a point external to the trailer.

Chris

I agree with Chris.
If a ground was touching a hot wire, there would be a short. Barely touching; there would be sparks. Maybe the electrician found other things as he was checking and fixing as he was going through your rig's wiring.
As long as the RV is not shocking you any more, all is good. KEN

[Chiefblueman]

Hey guys, here is what the problem was .....

At the Texas rally on 10/27 I had a bedroom outlet replaced by one of the GD techs ...... problem is the ground wire was not properly trimmed and was wrapped around and touching the hot conductor/terminal. I had an electrician repair this outlet and the problem was resolved.

It took us a few hours to find the problem because I never imagined it to be the replaced outlet.

Thanks everyone for the concern and tips!!

X3 on what Chris said. Simply removing the contact that was energizing the grounding wire is only part of the solution. This contact should have caused current to be carried directly to an overcurrent protection device in the house panel, tripping it. As described, this current was allowed to "float" on your chassis, seeking a path to ground ie: you, from hand on rig to earth underfoot. If you were to connect a device to this outlet that for whatever reason faulted to ground, this situation could be repeated. This is what the grounding wire is for, an equipment ground that will take that current directly to the OCPD, tripping it. Don't confuse the grounding wire - equipment ground, with the grounded wire - neutral.

I'm sure your electrician checked all this out and all is well but you didn't mention if he did and I want to make sure. Faulty grounding kills people.

Kim
retired electrician

[traveldawg]

Quick question, Is rule number 2 "call the plumber"?

Brian

Rule #2 ... never believe what people tell you about the MPG they get and the money they make.....


btw...... glad the problem was found causing that dangerous hot skin condition. I still carry a non-contact checker and check the RV ground every time I plug in. I suggest everyone should.

[Jerryr]

Hey guys, here is what the problem was .....

At the Texas rally on 10/27 I had a bedroom outlet replaced by one of the GD techs ...... problem is the ground wire was not properly trimmed and was wrapped around and touching the hot conductor/terminal. I had an electrician repair this outlet and the problem was resolved.

It took us a few hours to find the problem because I never imagined it to be the replaced outlet.

Thanks everyone for the concern and tips!!

X4, I agree with Chris, OrBiker and Kim. Something still doesn’t sound right. I’m not an electrician but I have many years of experience validating proper building wiring, grounding and bonding. I estimate at least 1 in 15 NEMA 14-50R receptacles I had checked were misswired or had other problems. Just because your 50 amp receptacle was wired by an electrician doesn’t mean it’s correct.

Having a ground wire touching a hot terminal at a receptacle would explain why there was voltage on the trailer frame only if you had a floating ground. Normally with a good ground I would expect the circuit breaker protecting that receptacle to trip with a ground wire contacting a hot terminal.

I would be concerned that the trailer ground bar is not connected to a good ground either in the trailer breaker panel ground bar, at the 50 amp shore power receptacle or your house ground is not properly connected.

Troubleshooting bad grounds can be confusing.

In theory, I would think the only way the circuit breaker for that misswired receptacle would not trip and give you a hot trailer frame is if you have a floating ground.

It would take someone with some knowledge and an ohm-meter to verify good low resistance between the power cord plug ground and trailer frame.

[tcamper]

Hey guys, here is an update to this ….. this past Sunday we disconnected the exterior Furrion power inlet plug-in outlet (where I connect my 50amp power cord to my RV) and found the ground wire on the outside of the ground connection point. The set screw was completely seated and not making any connection to the ground wire.
We backed off the set screw and inserted the ground wire and re-set the set screw.

I was a bit overwhelmed at this …. I hope this solves my problems.

Thanks everyone for all your very helpful suggestions!

[Jerryr]

Hey guys, here is an update to this ….. this past Sunday we disconnected the exterior Furrion power inlet plug-in outlet (where I connect my 50amp power cord to my RV) and found the ground wire on the outside of the ground connection point. The set screw was completely seated and not making any connection to the ground wire.
We backed off the set screw and inserted the ground wire and re-set the set screw.

I was a bit overwhelmed at this …. I hope this solves my problems.

Thanks everyone for all your very helpful suggestions!

Terry,

Thanks for posting update. Now that makes sense. As I stated, a floating or disconnected ground would explain why breakers didn’t trip when hot wire was shorted to ground at a receptical.

I still would have someone with knowledge use an ohm meter to verify ground continuity (low resistance) from the 50 amp power cord plug ground to trailer frame. Of course you do this without the plug connected to the home wall connection.

You should have less than 5 ohms between plug ground and trailer frame.