Run Refrigerator While Traveling With Inverter?

[gbkims]

Ford 2017 Super Duty Upfitters Switches wiring drawings from https://fordbbas.com/vehicleModel/SuperDuty

Thread on getting enough amps to trailer, I read last year https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/f.../tid/27955830/

Xantrex 600W, 1000W Inverter cabling guidelines http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Pow...rter%20NA).pdf

I like Tucson Jim's solar & ncitro's DC-DC charger ideas.
I almost got the same Ctek DC-DC charger hooked up to my truck, just getting from truck bed's added 2 Awg SB120 connector, then smaller Awg jumper to pin box & routed thru to front compartment stymied me.
I found my Ram's +12v to trailer 7pin connector is 30A fuse with 14 Awg wire.

So, I installed solar instead, and am just running RV frig on propane.

[DaveMatthewsBand]

Ford 2017 Super Duty Upfitters Switches wiring drawings from https://fordbbas.com/vehicleModel/SuperDuty

Thread on getting enough amps to trailer, I read last year https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/f.../tid/27955830/

Xantrex 600W, 1000W Inverter cabling guidelines http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Pow...rter%20NA).pdf

I like Tucson Jim's solar & ncitro's DC-DC charger ideas.
Almost got the same Ctek hooked up to my truck, just getting from truck bed's 2 Awg SB120 connector thru to front compartment stymied me.
Installed solar instead, and just run RV frig on propane.

This is a really cool idea, yet, it's only helpful while you're towing. Since I have a rule of never towing longer than 3 hours, (normally only about 2) this project wouldn't make much sense for me personally. If you're someone that tows for long distances, this would be a great option.
But from what I recall, if you are running non-lithium batteries, they take a LONG time to charge, so how much of charge would you actually get, especially since you're going to be using electricity running your fridge?
Seems like just installing 600w of solar would accomplish the same goal but it wouldn't be limited to driving time.

[howson]

@DMB, @Gene, @ncitro, @Jim, & @Rob;

Wow--thank you! I have more homework to do with all the information provided. I'll update this thread at some point if and when I come to any conclusion or have any further questions.

The bit about the truck potentially limiting the alternator's output based on the state of the truck's battery charge is something I'd have never considered a possibility. It's the question I wouldn't know to ask.

[kevinpo]

Hello,
My truck has the option of a second alternator (220 amp). Is that something Ford has that could be added just to charge the RV batteries? Then you could add the correct wire size for the amp draw.

Regards,
Kevin

[ncitro]

I have the dual alternators as well. I'm looking to verify if simply bigger wire size will solve the issue by testing with jumper cables but haven't had a chance yet. My understanding is both alternators are controlled by the trucks computer and adjust their voltage accordingly.

[howson]

Hello,
My truck has the option of a second alternator (220 amp). Is that something Ford has that could be added just to charge the RV batteries? Then you could add the correct wire size for the amp draw.

Regards,
Kevin

There is a difference (obviously) in the routing of the truck's belt and there's different idler gears, etc. I found a diagram online--that's how I was able to easily determine my truck has a single alternator and looking up the part number verified it was the extra heavy duty version.

Honestly I am speculating when I state it's too much trouble to modify the truck with the second alternator. Maybe it's easy, but I suspect it will entail a new "brain" (ECU?), too. I suspect the existing alternator's capacity is way more than I normally use so I'm going to go down that rabbit hole first.

Thanks for the suggestion, though!

[offtohavasu]

There is a difference (obviously) in the routing of the truck's belt and there's different idler gears, etc. I found a diagram online--that's how I was able to easily determine my truck has a single alternator and looking up the part number verified it was the extra heavy duty version.

Honestly I am speculating when I state it's too much trouble to modify the truck with the second alternator. Maybe it's easy, but I suspect it will entail a new "brain" (ECU?), too. I suspect the existing alternator's capacity is way more than I normally use so I'm going to go down that rabbit hole first.

Thanks for the suggestion, though!

I don't know about Ford, but on GM you only need the additional idler pulley and a quick modification to the wiring harness. No reprogramming necessary.

[DaveMatthewsBand]

I have dual high output alternators which I believe yields 357 amps.

But let's face it, Dual alternators are for sissies.

QUAD alternators is the way to go!

That's right, 4 alternators, holy cow, I might just sell my solar panels and run these bad boys.





Website LINK

[howson]

If you're just focused on the electric running while towing I wouldn't go this route....

FT4NOW's comment is a response to mine in @DMB's thread regarding converting his refrigerator to a high-efficiency DC compressor. I didn't want to take DMB's thread too far off topic so I'll respond here.

FT4NOW--I do appreciate the feedback and input. I'm still learning (and probably always will).

To clarify my purpose there are several inter-related goals and requirements I want to spell out. This is a long post but maybe it will clarify what I'm pursuing (and why).

- Fran and I do not anticipate needing propane to run the refrigerator. Fran and I are "glampers". I sincerely doubt you'll ever find us at the end of some road purposefully boondocking. If we're ever boondocking it will be unplanned! (As you probably already know, Fran and I choose to not travel with propane on. This thread has the commentary on that topic.)

- I want to minimize the logitics associated with traveling with the RV. The less steps associated with a travel day, the better. Currently Fran freezes water bottles and limits the amount of items that must stay cold to what will fit in the freezer space. (The food stays cold in the freezer with the frozen water bottles--nothing spoils.)

- Maximize the performance of the refrigerator. The compressor version in the Morton video appears to cool quicker and better than the absorption version I have now.

- A gadget's monetary price is always a factor, but the overall cost (in terms of price + what I have to do to make it work initially and then each time I use it) is usually something I look at closely before making a decision. "We don't own things, they own us." Time is the most precious resource!

- I have to consider powering the refrigerator while stopped at a rest area during a brutal summer afternoon. Imagine stopping in the Badlands off of I-90 in South Dakota for a few hours to take a hike before heading into Rapid City. Since the truck is off, an inverter-only setup (only 12V source is the truck) means I could end up with a refrigerator full of spoiled food. I have to have a setup that will continue to run with the truck off.

--Some may respond and ask, "Why not just run off of propane when you stop?" It's a good question. The first (and almost the most important) requirement is to minimize the logistics associated with a travel day. Since I turn off the propane at the tanks before turning off the grill (or stove, or whatever) my propane lines are unpressurized, with very little propane in them. To get the refrigerator to work with the propane, when I stop I'd have to turn the propane on. Then I'd probably use the stove to know propane is flowing, then I'd have to verify the refrigerator switched over and is still cooling. Then I'd have to remember to put everything back on electric and turn off the propane before leaving. Call me spoiled and/or lazy, but I'm not going to do that. I want to stop (and go) without thinking about the refrigerator.

- The least palatible choice (currently) is doing an electrical modification to the truck. I'm not ignorant regarding electricity and electronics but I don't know what I don't know about my truck's computer brain and it's systems. The thought of running high-amperage 12V back to an inverter is not my first choice. (Wires can fray and short...lots of potential unintended consequences!)

- If I can get a setup that will run the refrigerator off of Battle Borns for 24 hours, all I'd need is the batteries, a 12V-capable refrigerator (Morton's mod as outlined in DMB's thread), a new converter (made for lithiums) and a battery monitor. I'd even be set for solar should I want to pursue that option in the future! I currently plan on recharging the batteries through the trailer's electrical system when I arrive at the campground (or a generator if necessary).

Thanks for reading.

-Howard

[gbkims]

...
- The least palatible choice (currently) is doing an electrical modification to the truck. I'm not ignorant regarding electricity and electronics but I don't know what I don't know about my truck's computer brain and it's systems. The thought of running high-amperage 12V back to an inverter is not my first choice. (Wires can fray and short...lots of potential unintended consequences!)

- If I can get a setup that will run the refrigerator off of Battle Borns for 24 hours, all I'd need is the batteries, a 12V-capable refrigerator (Morton's mod as outlined in DMB's thread), a new converter (made for lithiums) and a battery monitor. I'd even be set for solar should I want to pursue that option in the future! I currently plan on recharging the batteries through the trailer's electrical system when I arrive at the campground (or a generator if necessary).

Thanks for reading.

-Howard

Howard,

I'd think running a bigger set of Red/Black wires from the truck's battery terminals will allow the needed Amps to run the frig.
Even though there's some voltage drop and the truck's charging voltage may not be enough to fully recharge the batteries, there should be enough Amps to operate equipment while you drive.
edit: I was thinking DC equipment, but not an 12V to 120VAC inverter.

I do have welding cable run along side the truck's main cable harness next the the frame from battery terminals, thru a fuse to the rear of the bed.
I think adding the separate run to the rear is better than depending on the smaller trailer connector's 12V wire.
I'd think 4 Awg would be pretty reasonable. I ran 2 Awg b/c I've got the dual 220A alternators.
I had just stopped short of running a 4 Awg jumper cable from the truck to the pinbox, then into front compartment b/c of the tight fit between overhang fiberglass and pinbox frame.

Fuse I used at truck's battery terminals.