Rear Underbelly Stuff

[ncitro]

The "end cutters" that I have described in the past, are the simplest way to undo a crimped clamp in a tight space. These work more easily than side cutters because of the way the jaws open allows you the grab both the end of the clamp and the next ridge that it is latched to. No danger of doing any damage to the pipe/hose underneath (if you intend to reinstall this connection) as will almost certainly happen with a cutoff wheel. Also, no little bits of metal to clean up as results with the cutoff wheel approach.

Just another way of doing it . . .

Rob

Yeah when I did mine I had no intention of reusing the hose. The fittings came out unscarred. Most were off of the Nautilus panel, so I removed them and did it outside the rig. It actually went way more civilized than I thought it would.

[ncitro]

Hmmmmm....
As usual Rob, I believe you derive some pleasure out of confusing me... LOL !!!!
Since I'm gonna go at it, may as well give your cutters a try. First, how old was your rig before you started seeing bulges ??
Better schedule this, with all the other projects this forum has "planned for me"...[emoji16]

Didn't think about all those flying bits of metal and with my luck, one will skirt right up past my goggles and zap me in the eye !!
I'll stop at HD for a pair of those end cutters ??, and we'll see....another tool.
What crimper do you recommend IF the shark bited are too costly ??
I'd really like to do the manifold, while I'm at it.... looks much neater.
There I go again !

Thanks again....
Micharl

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

For the crimper, some variation of this: IWISS PEX Ratcheting Cinch Crimping Tool for Stainless Steel Clamps from 3/8"to 1" Fastening Tool Pinch to (Cinch Tool Kit-with Clamps) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019DPYQZM..._iJqNCbKKSF0XT

Available at Home Depot etc as well.

[Cate&Rob]

Hmmmmm....
As usual Rob, I believe you derive some pleasure out of confusing me... LOL !!!!
Since I'm gonna go at it, may as well give your cutters a try. First, how old was your rig before you started seeing bulges ??
Better schedule this, with all the other projects this forum has "planned for me"...[emoji16]

Didn't think about all those flying bits of metal and with my luck, one will skirt right up past my goggles and zap me in the eye !!
I'll stop at HD for a pair of those end cutters ??, and we'll see....another tool.
What crimper do you recommend IF the shark bited are too costly ??
I'd really like to do the manifold, while I'm at it.... looks much neater.
There I go again !

Thanks again....

Hi Michael,

The "end cutters" don't actually "cut" the clamp . . . they just "unlatch" it so that it can be unwrapped.

I first discovered the "soft hose" problem when I was installing a shut off valve on the water line to the toilet. (a good idea BTW since these toilets are prone to developing leaking valves or vacuum breaks and it is a whole lot easier to just shut off the valve to the toilet than to do without water in the rest of the rig until you fix the toilet ) By the time I had wrestled that valve into place I had moved the soft hose around enough that it was dripping at the Pex fitting connection on each end!

The burst soft hose (at the water heater outlet) happened in our 3rd snowbird season . . . so, after about 12 months of use.

Rob

[Country Campers]

https://www.amazon.com/iCrimp-Cinch-...X2XBJ86866H7FB

This is what I got , have not used it yet but came with all the fixins. Not interested in the cutting action unless it will fit in the spot.
Seems like a quality tool. (did I mention I don't like this forum before)

Brian

[Da Breeze]

Hi Michael
By the time I had wrestled that valve into place I had moved the soft hose around enough that it was dripping at the Pex fitting connection on each end!

The burst soft hose (at the water heater outlet) happened in our 3rd snowbird season . . . so, after about 12 months of use.

Rob

Hi Rob.
Well Im gonna miss seeing you before you leave. Have to get minor surgery on knee.
(I KNEW I shouldn't start going to the gym)

Anyways.... I'm curious if GD hasn't changed their soft water hose material ??
Below, you see my basement and Nautilus water center. First thing I noticed.....
IDK WHY on earth GD would use soft hose on such small connections ????
What are they saving with that move ??

This hose has a burst rating of 150 psi and it's patent pending, so makes me think its been upgraded from earlier builds ???
My regulator is set for 45 psi and the water pump maxes out at 55 psi.
Seems only 33% of capacity.
So why the bursting ?? The HW hose is a given, but what to do about the rest ???

Note it is nylon/fiberglass braided material, and despite 8 months of straight full time trip around USA in 2017 plus 3 months FT in Smokeys last year, I think it looks OK to me ??
Thoughts ??

BTW.... Did you remove t- fittings from the panel and make replicas wt Pex and replace assembly ??
Seems easier that way.

Thanks.
Michael


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[Mr. Goodwrench]

Hi Rob.
Well Im gonna miss seeing you before you leave. Have to get minor surgery on knee.
(I KNEW I shouldn't start going to the gym)

Anyways.... I'm curious if GD hasn't changed their soft water hose material ??
Below, you see my basement and Nautilus water center. First thing I noticed.....
IDK WHY on earth GD would use soft hose on such small connections ????
What are they saving with that move ??

This hose has a burst rating of 150 psi and it's patent pending, so makes me think its been upgraded from earlier builds ???
My regulator is set for 45 psi and the water pump maxes out at 55 psi.
Seems only 33% of capacity.
So why the bursting ?? The HW hose is a given, but what to do about the rest ???

Note it is nylon/fiberglass braided material, and despite 8 months of straight full time trip around USA in 2017 plus 3 months FT in Smokeys last year, I think it looks OK to me ??
Thoughts ??

BTW.... Did you remove t- fittings from the panel and make replicas wt Pex and replace assembly ??
Seems easier that way.

Thanks.
Michael


Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

And check out the info printed on the white hose in the third pic. China's finest I assume?

[Cate&Rob]

This hose has a burst rating of 150 psi and it's patent pending, so makes me think its been upgraded from earlier builds ???
My regulator is set for 45 psi and the water pump maxes out at 55 psi.
Seems only 33% of capacity.
So why the bursting ?? The HW hose is a given, but what to do about the rest ???

Note it is nylon/fiberglass braided material, and despite 8 months of straight full time trip around USA in 2017 plus 3 months FT in Smokeys last year, I think it looks OK to me ??
Thoughts ??

BTW.... Did you remove t- fittings from the panel and make replicas wt Pex and replace assembly ??
Seems easier that way.

Thanks.
Michael

Hi Michael,

The pressure in the plumbing system will go far beyond the external pressure regulator. I discovered this after I installed a "system pressure" gauge. After hooking up the water system, it stabilized at 50 psi (my pressure regulator setting). Then, I turned on the water heater . . . and watched the system pressure climb past 70 psi from the expansion due to heating. This can be solved by briefly opening a faucet . . . but, who thinks to do that ?

Agreed that this is still well below the pressure printed on the soft hose . . . but, I think the hose in your second picture is on its way to bursting like the one in the attached picture. Part of this problem is because the clamp damages the hose braid in crimping it to the too-small Pex fitting. It might retain the spec pressure if attached to a proper OD hose fitting.

I have the Kantleak water control system (vs your Nautilus). I stripped out all the plumbing and rebuilt it piece-by-piece from 100% Pex.
See https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...968#post171968 for further details per pictures attached.

Rob

[Da Breeze]

Hi Rob....

Pretty amazing projects and results !!

My Natulius panel.seems to be a lot more complicated than the Kant Leak system....

What do you think about the manifold idea ??
Im thinking to just eliminate every T and pex it to the manifold... Would this work ???

Hope so, cause I get like this whenever I tackle a project like that !!!

LOL.....Michael

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[minnow101]

I think I’ve seen a picture of the manifold rebuild you’re thinking about on this forum. Simplier the better in my mind. As a fellow member of the can leak Kantleak club I’ve given a good deal of thought to rebuilding the water system. I’ve done a number of fitting replacements using Pex and sharkbite fittings but not a 100% rebuild.

I’ve bookmarked, downloaded and printed off Rob’s excellent tutorial. But have not done it yet even though just about every time we go out camping, I have some sort of drip or worse which requires attention.

To be perfectly honest, that Kantleak system and the crap piping affixed thereto has added to my increasing desire to sell the RV.

[Cate&Rob]

My Natulius panel.seems to be a lot more complicated than the Kant Leak system....

What do you think about the manifold idea ??
Im thinking to just eliminate every T and pex it to the manifold... Would this work ???

Hi Michael,

You are right that the Kantleak is a simpler system than the Nautilus. Kantleak has a very clever single 4 way valve, whereas Nautilus uses four 2 way valves. Either system accomplishes the same thing. Kantleak lost the business because they cheapened the manufacturing from all brass to mostly plastic. (I read that they are trying to get back into the market by going back to all brass components . . . same proven design).

The manifold idea doesn't really work for what we are talking about. A manifold is a great idea for distributing the output of either the city connection or the onboard pump. It won't work for the "selection process" of where the water is coming from (city/pump) and where you want to send it (faucets/tank). This is what the Kantleak/Nautilus valve(s) do. There is also water heater bypass to figure into the valving for winterizing. (Kantleak also has a clever valve for this that eliminates the need for the water heater output check valve required with the Nautilus system).

The existing plumbing is essentially a "manifold" system already. Picture long Pex manifolds for hot and cold, delivering water to every fixture . . . that is what is there now. Running new Pex lines from every fixture back to a central manifold would be a lot of Pex (and a lot of work!).

Rob