Rear Underbelly Stuff

[Da Breeze]

Hate to spoil the fun here.... but IF the red and blue shower lines are the "softee stuff", HOW, on earth do we get behind the shower to replace those fittings where they connect to shower faucet ???

Michael

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[powerscol]

Somewhere behind the shower there should be an access panel. could be in an adjoining room, closet,etc..

[Cate&Rob]

Somewhere behind the shower there should be an access panel. could be in an adjoining room, closet,etc..

In the Reflection 303, with the curved glass corner shower, there is a small panel below the faucets in the shower wall that is the only access to these water connections or the black tank flush vacuum break.

Rob

[Calbar]

Hate to spoil the fun here.... but IF the red and blue shower lines are the "softee stuff", HOW, on earth do we get behind the shower to replace those fittings where they connect to shower faucet ???

Michael

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On my shower the faucet is attached to an extension box that is screwed to the shower wall. In my previous trailer I had to remove the faucet by taking off the extension box and then disconnecting from there. I suspect that this is how I would have to replace the fittings as I don't have an access panel without cutting one in the closet wall. Not really what I want to do so whenever I get to making the changes I will try with the extension box first.

Rob

[Da Breeze]

On my shower the faucet is attached to an extension box that is screwed to the shower wall. In my previous trailer I had to remove the faucet by taking off the extension box and then disconnecting from there. I suspect that this is how I would have to replace the fittings as I don't have an access panel without cutting one in the closet wall. Not really what I want to do so whenever I get to making the changes I will try with the extension box first.

Rob

Thanks Rob..
That makes a world of sense.
I wish I had the kind of property where I could park my RV right next to my house, instead of a storage lot. (Sub division) ugh

I could then examine more of what I have, IPO trying to remember ??
Oh wait !!!
IF that were the case,
I might NEVER STOP this incessant urge for perfection !!!! LOL !!

Michael

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[Polkadotti]

Excellent question. In my case, 230RL, GD ran the lines between the shower and the back wall of the closet (they left a little cutout, which was nice except when you press on the shower, it feels like there is nothing behind it, because there isn't anything back there to hold it). The lines run down, under the shower pan and exit right at the shower drain. Tight fitting, can't them out to replace with pex because they are so wedged in. I may have to disassemble the shower drain and pan to remove and switch to pex. But the switch will also most likely require expanding the cutout in the floor to make a little more room so as not to kink or bind the pex. It is unclear at this point how possible the switch to pex is. GD is working to get me some more information--if it exists.

[ncitro]

Excellent question. In my case, 230RL, GD ran the lines between the shower and the back wall of the closet (they left a little cutout, which was nice except when you press on the shower, it feels like there is nothing behind it, because there isn't anything back there to hold it). The lines run down, under the shower pan and exit right at the shower drain. Tight fitting, can't them out to replace with pex because they are so wedged in. I may have to disassemble the shower drain and pan to remove and switch to pex. But the switch will also most likely require expanding the cutout in the floor to make a little more room so as not to kink or bind the pex. It is unclear at this point how possible the switch to pex is. GD is working to get me some more information--if it exists.

Yes for my shower lines I used the appropriate barb fitting and clamp and adapted to PEX once in the storage bay. There was just no way I was going to get PEX lines up to the shower controls without tearing apart the wall on the other side, or removing the shower. I am confident enough in the rubber hose iteself, its just the use of PEX fittings that is giving the issues.

[cpaul.moss]

Attachment 16914Attachment 16915

Wiring laying on moving parts of the slide mechanism. Wonder how long it would take to rub through that Romex. Probably quite a while since it looks to be well greased.
It was hard not to chop all of the wiring out and start over. If I had a shop big enough to put my trailer inside, that would be a project I'd tackle. As it is, I spent several days removing excess wiring, re-terminating, untying knots and supporting cabling.
GDRV plays pretty fast and loose when it comes to wiring and electrical safety. Seems like a poor place to cut a corner.

How did you remove the excess? Is it ok to cut the excess out and reconnect the wire with appropriate connectors? I’m thinking marine grade heat shrink butt connectors like I use on my boat.

[Chiefblueman]

How did you remove the excess? Is it ok to cut the excess out and reconnect the wire with appropriate connectors? I’m thinking marine grade heat shrink butt connectors like I use on my boat.

The slack here enabled me to move the cables laterally to points where they could be secured with wire ties and/or adel clamps to keep them from contacting moving parts. Under no circumstances would I cut and splice the Romex that carries 120v ac using butt connectors and heat shrink. If I absolutely had to splice it, there would have to be enough slack for the Romex to enter and exit a rated box like an FSC, firmly attached to a stationary part of the trailer. I did have about 30 ft of excess 12v multi conductor cable laying atop the coroplast running to the rear of the trailer. These I stagger spliced using butts, individual heat shrinks then a larger underground rated heat shrink ( the kind with sealing glue inside) over the whole assy.

Seeing these photos again reminds me how glad I am to have paid $45 for the RVIA sticker of confidence on my trailer.

[GENESIS]

The slack here enabled me to move the cables laterally to points where they could be secured with wire ties and/or adel clamps to keep them from contacting moving parts. Under no circumstances would I cut and splice the Romex that carries 120v ac using butt connectors and heat shrink. If I absolutely had to splice it, there would have to be enough slack for the Romex to enter and exit a rated box like an FSC, firmly attached to a stationary part of the trailer. I did have about 30 ft of excess 12v multi conductor cable laying atop the coroplast running to the rear of the trailer. These I stagger spliced using butts, individual heat shrinks then a larger underground rated heat shrink ( the kind with sealing glue inside) over the whole assy.

Seeing these photos again reminds me how glad I am to have paid $45 for the RVIA sticker of confidence on my trailer.

I too am in the same camp of not splicing Romex. However.....if I HAD to do it, I would use what I've used in the past and that's this type of splice connector: https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Produc.../dp/B01LW3Q7M4

As for cutting out the excess wire and re-splicing, that's what I did for several wires. It was a labor of love and a bit of a PITA to cut out the excess, put Ox Gard in a butt splice, crimp the splice, pull test the crimp and then cover the splice with heat shrink. But after I did oh......about.......100, it started to go faster. LOL.

And I did as Kim explain with a few harnesses - i.e. cut excess, stagger spliced, heat shrink. The only difference was I then used split wire loom to bundle the wires and then wire-tied them off to the frame. Just as Kim described, this is what one will see when they drop the Coroplast either front or rear.



Tom