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  1. #1
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Small Gap Air Infiltration

    This relates to several threads on keeping the underbelly warm. Most recently https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...g-in-a-315rlts

    Those who might have followed https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...ly-Stuff/page5 will know that I dropped the rear coroplast to repair some wiring issues.

    A bit of history . . . the coroplast on my 303RLS has been dropped before . . . by LCI when they installed 2" spacers between the frame rails and the suspension hangers. When the LCI techs reinstalled the coroplast, they went around the entire edge of the coroplast with foam. I never really thought much about this, but as originally installed the coroplast did not have this foam edge seal.

    When I reinstalled the coroplast a couple of weeks ago, I didn't replace this foam seal . . . how much difference could that small gap make, anyway?

    Well . . . it is significant! Today, we have a cold wind (well . . . cold for Florida ) blowing in from the back of the trailer. We can feel this outside air coming out through the kitchen island, blowing up through the openings from the underbelly! Same location, same winds . . . and we have never felt this before. The only difference is that small gap all around the edges of the coroplast at the back of the trailer.

    Camping in truly cold weather with the original factory build coroplast installation would have this same infiltration. Probably explains the frozen water lines to the kitchen island, experienced by several on this forum. Sealing this small coroplast-to-frame gap would make a big difference!

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  2. #2
    Rolling Along
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    Good idea, would a adhesive tape/foil tape work as well?

    Are you also doing the spray foam insulation on the I beams to help with heat loss?

  3. #3
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cleazenby View Post
    Good idea, would a adhesive tape/foil tape work as well?

    Are you also doing the spray foam insulation on the I beams to help with heat loss?
    Hi Clint,

    Interesting that you should mention tape . . . I have also been thinking about how best to solve this. I would like to retain the ability to drop the coroplast without destroying whatever I use to seal this gap. The rigid spray foam used by the LCI techs worked . . . but fell to pieces when the coroplast was dropped. Tape would be easy to apply, but would have to be cut to drop the coroplast . . . maybe this isn't a big deal. I was thinking of some type of soft foam weatherstrip . . . except that there is a lot of variation in the gap, from nothing to maybe 1/4".

    I don't have any plans to foam the I beams since we don't do any long term cold weather camping. If we can stop the cold drafts (outside air infiltration), around the slides and now through the underbelly, I think this will make the biggest difference.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

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    Coincidentally, I was just under the back end of my 303 today investigating the possibility of installing a 2” receiver. One thing I noticed was that the coroplast had been sealed with foam along the edges. As far as I know, the coroplast is as it was installed at the factory.

    I paid attention to it because I had a similar thought, wondering if the foam would survive removal of the belly and what a good replacement would be if it didn’t. Tape entered my mind, but it would seem to require a lot of cleaning to ensure adhesion. I also wondered about a weatherstrip foam sandwiched between the coroplast and frame, overlapping the edge of the coroplast a bit.

    I will venture to guess however, that the 14 degree unheated storage building concrete floor I was laying on would put your “cold” Florida wind to shame!
    John & Kathy
    2014 F250 Lariat FX4 6.2L SBCC
    2014 Reflection 303RLS
    SW Indiana

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    Rolling Along JColeman's Avatar
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    Is it thermal insulation you are looking for here are are you just looking to seal a tiny air gap? In terms of adhesion, I would think if there is concern about using heater duct tape against a non-pristine surface, you could use Gorilla tape to hold it to the frame and that should get the job done in a removable way.
    Jeff and Jen
    2016 F250 CC Lariat 4x4 6.7L, Firestone Airbags, Pullrite Superglide
    2017 Solitude 310GK, a little solar, a little lithium, disc brakes and a few suspension mods

    Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. - Ben Franklin

  6. #6
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    A bit of history . . . the coroplast on my 303RLS has been dropped before . . . by LCI when they installed 2" spacers between the frame rails and the suspension hangers. When the LCI techs reinstalled the coroplast, they went around the entire edge of the coroplast with foam. I never really thought much about this, but as originally installed the coroplast did not have this foam edge seal.

    When I reinstalled the coroplast a couple of weeks ago, I didn't replace this foam seal . . . how much difference could that small gap make, anyway?

    Well . . . it is significant! Today, we have a cold wind (well . . . cold for Florida ) blowing in from the back of the trailer. We can feel this outside air coming out through the kitchen island, blowing up through the openings from the underbelly! Same location, same winds . . . and we have never felt this before. The only difference is that small gap all around the edges of the coroplast at the back of the trailer!
    Rob
    That's quite amazing, Rob. It is surprising that this "open seal gap" in a few areas would do this alone. For the cold air to be coming in and this notiecable......one would think air has to be going out somewhere like a roof vent, window, door, basement door(s), etc. which was not the case before in similar conditions.

    As you would say...Hmmm

    By the way, our coroplast was not completely re-sealed by GDRV FSC this spring but rather just the many the gaps were filled with the dark gray foam. See attached pictures.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JColeman View Post
    Is it thermal insulation you are looking for here are are you just looking to seal a tiny air gap? In terms of adhesion, I would think if there is concern about using heater duct tape against a non-pristine surface, you could use Gorilla tape to hold it to the frame and that should get the job done in a removable way.
    Hi Dan & Jeff:

    We are on a long term winter site in Florida. We have had many winds across the lake just like we felt yesterday. The only thing that changed was that I dropped the coroplast to fix the wiring . . . dislodging all the rigid foam alongs its edges . . . and put the coroplast back up without any foam.

    Dan: To confirm . . . when we felt the outside air coming up through the island, there were no other windows or hatches open. Although, this trailer is far from "airtight" .

    Jeff: I am coming back around to thinking that tape would be the easiest solution. The only thing that changed is the air gaps . . . so, that is all I have to correct for. Tape can be installed after the coroplast is in place and (if I pick the right kind of tape) can be removed if/when I want to drop the coroplast again. I agree that Gorilla tape is probably the best bet.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  8. #8
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    Hi Dan & Jeff:

    We are on a long term winter site in Florida. We have had many winds across the lake just like we felt yesterday. The only thing that changed was that I dropped the coroplast to fix the wiring . . . dislodging all the rigid foam alongs its edges . . . and put the coroplast back up without any foam.

    Dan: To confirm . . . when we felt the outside air coming up through the island, there were no other windows or hatches open. Although, this trailer is far from "airtight" .

    Jeff: I am coming back around to thinking that tape would be the easiest solution. The only thing that changed is the air gaps . . . so, that is all I have to correct for. Tape can be installed after the coroplast is in place and (if I pick the right kind of tape) can be removed if/when I want to drop the coroplast again. I agree that Gorilla tape is probably the best bet.

    Rob
    Rob - what about installing heavy duty velcro strips to needed areas if not all around the perimeter ? Adherence to the frame and coroplast may be the challenge to ensure it stays put. I'm sure you know a talented engineer to address this though !

    I noticed in last evening's Chiefs and Pats FB game that one segment showed rolling up the field cover and the sections appeared to be held together with a stout velcro. The worker was having a tough time separating the sections.

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  9. #9
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    I'd noted cold air coming up around black tank floor opening in my basement from where the wires fed down.
    Packed some insulation around the large square opening to slow the air.
    Have some insulation around the island opening also.

    For the coroplast, I've lined the edge where it's flat against the frame flange with double sided Closed-Cell Polyurethane Foam .030" Thick, 1"W tape.
    It grips pretty well, peels off when I have to open the coroplast.
    Using it mostly to keep water from getting in between the coroplast and the frame flange, especially at the wheel areas where water gets thrown up.
    Been using the tape for years, used to use for outdoor equipment labels as it held up the the sun's UV.
    It doesn't try to bond permanent like 3M VHB tape.

    Basement black tank opening:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by gbkims; 01-22-2019 at 10:36 AM.
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

  10. #10
    Seasoned Camper SGillis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    Hi Clint,

    Interesting that you should mention tape . . . I have also been thinking about how best to solve this. I would like to retain the ability to drop the coroplast without destroying whatever I use to seal this gap. The rigid spray foam used by the LCI techs worked . . . but fell to pieces when the coroplast was dropped. Tape would be easy to apply, but would have to be cut to drop the coroplast . . . maybe this isn't a big deal. I was thinking of some type of soft foam weatherstrip . . . except that there is a lot of variation in the gap, from nothing to maybe 1/4".

    I don't have any plans to foam the I beams since we don't do any long term cold weather camping. If we can stop the cold drafts (outside air infiltration), around the slides and now through the underbelly, I think this will make the biggest difference.

    Rob
    Hi everyone!
    Since we are talking about sealing the coroplast. I maybe worng, but is there not big round holes in the frame for the slides to go in and out? Scott
    Scott&Shelley Gillis (Pack Members.. Remington,Maggie,Molly,Rayne,Hannah,Cole,Gemma,
    Jayden,Dalton,Gavin,Cody and Yes they all camp with us!)
    2017 Reflection 315RLTS
    2005 2500 8.1l 410 Suburban Cold Air Intake, 8.mm MSD Wires, Cat Back System, Drilled and Sloted Rotors ,all Led Lighting. Hensly Mfg. TruControl brake controler.

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