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  1. #21
    Setting Up Camp dmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 242 checkmate View Post
    Not sure if this information helps anyone. When our Dometic RM1350 refrigerator was replaced I called Dometic and they registered my new refrigerator. I had an another two year parts and labor warranty on the new refrigerator. My dealer didn’t have an answer for me on any warranty information on the new unit so that is why I called Dometic.
    Additional info for anyone having fridge only cooling issues with Dometic RM1350. Shortly after we got our 337RLS (with same Dometic RM1350 fridge), we had cooling issues. (in summer 90 degree+ heat). Freezer worked fine but fridge temps would go up to mid 40's. Had two problems....
    1. A wire had come loose that connected one of the upper cooling/exhaust fans. Dealer found this & corrected.
    2. The left door flap was not always closing all the way, therefore the seal with the right door was compromised when both doors were closed allowing cool air to escape.
    David & Sandra
    Honey: 10 year old miniature dachshund
    2018 Reflection 337 RLS (Mfg date: 07/24/2017)
    2011 Chevy Silverado "LTZ" 3500 HD
    4x4 Crew Cab DRW 6.6L Duramax LML/Allison
    Payload sticker: 4875#
    Curt Q20 Hitch w/ R20 Slider

  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper
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    I have a Norcold fridge. My problem is that the freezer compartment warms. It never completely thaws, it will just warm up to about 30 degrees. But the fridge will hold at less than 40. Alan Sills with RV across America has a interesting article and video about Rv fridges in cold weather. He says that running on LP in the winter helps but only to a certain extent. Im not sure my fridge has this problem or not as I have found that if I shut mine off for about ten minutes and restart it . It will cool fine for several days. I have been living with this issue for 2 years . At this point I wish it would stop working so I could find the problem. I guess if a person isn't going to do a lot of boondocking a residential fridge may be the way to go.

    Ps, In Alans video , he says the issue is the ammonia in the lines freezing

  3. #23
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by concreteman View Post
    I have a Norcold fridge. My problem is that the freezer compartment warms. It never completely thaws, it will just warm up to about 30 degrees. But the fridge will hold at less than 40. Alan Sills with RV across America has a interesting article and video about Rv fridges in cold weather. He says that running on LP in the winter helps but only to a certain extent. Im not sure my fridge has this problem or not as I have found that if I shut mine off for about ten minutes and restart it . It will cool fine for several days. I have been living with this issue for 2 years . At this point I wish it would stop working so I could find the problem. I guess if a person isn't going to do a lot of boondocking a residential fridge may be the way to go.

    Ps, In Alans video , he says the issue is the ammonia in the lines freezing
    I also have a Norcold, a 4 door 12 cu. ft. After I put monitors in the freezer and fridge I began noticing the temps would rise from ~ 5 and 32 to 18 and 42. If I shut it off and turned it back on it would cool back down. This was happening about every 24 hrs or so. Turns out it was the defrost cycle that was freaking me out. When I'd shut it off for 10 or 20 seconds I was restarting the defrost timer. Took me a while to figure that out.
    May not be the same issue but worth a look. I've only had the fridge running in low 20 deg weather, cools fine.

  4. #24
    Fireside Member BC315RLTS's Avatar
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    From this link: http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/01/winter-rving.html

    The absorption refrigerator, however, may experience other issues. In extremely low temperatures, the refrigerator simply may not operate. The internal contents of the sealed absorption system include water, liquefied ammonia, hydrogen gas, and sodium chromate, the chemical used to protect the internal pipes from the corrosiveness of the ammonia.


    During a typical cycle, heat is applied by either an electric heating element or a propane burner. During the process of removing the heat from inside the refrigerator and freezer (the absence of heat is cold), the water and liquid ammonia are boiled and evaporated, then condensed back into a liquid over and over. And since water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit . . . well, you can begin to see how very low temperatures can have an effect on absorption refrigeration, just as much as extremely high temperatures. The cooling core is attached to the rear of the refrigerator, not within the heated house portion of the RV.

    Temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit probably will require some form of additional heat applied near the cooling core components at the rear of the refrigerator for it to operate properly. But rather than adding yet another droplight, packing insulation behind the refrigerator, or blocking off the lower vent openings, I contend that at temperatures well below freezing, you simply don’t need refrigeration anyway! Just put the lobster tails and prime rib in a cooler and set it outside! Once the ambient air gets closer to the freezing mark, then you can move the food back inside; the RV absorption refrigerator should operate fine at temperatures near freezing and above. Try to position the coach where maximum sunlight can be directed onto the lower refrigerator vent at the side of the RV when operating the absorption refrigerator during cold weather.
    2019 Reflection 315RLTS
    2019 Ford F250 Lariat SuperCab PSD SRW

    Former set up:
    2013 Kodiak 291RESL
    2017 Ford F150 Platinum

  5. #25
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC315RLTS View Post
    From this link: http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/01/winter-rving.html

    The absorption refrigerator, however, may experience other issues. In extremely low temperatures, the refrigerator simply may not operate. The internal contents of the sealed absorption system include water, liquefied ammonia, hydrogen gas, and sodium chromate, the chemical used to protect the internal pipes from the corrosiveness of the ammonia.


    During a typical cycle, heat is applied by either an electric heating element or a propane burner. During the process of removing the heat from inside the refrigerator and freezer (the absence of heat is cold), the water and liquid ammonia are boiled and evaporated, then condensed back into a liquid over and over. And since water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit . . . well, you can begin to see how very low temperatures can have an effect on absorption refrigeration, just as much as extremely high temperatures. The cooling core is attached to the rear of the refrigerator, not within the heated house portion of the RV.

    Temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit probably will require some form of additional heat applied near the cooling core components at the rear of the refrigerator for it to operate properly. But rather than adding yet another droplight, packing insulation behind the refrigerator, or blocking off the lower vent openings, I contend that at temperatures well below freezing, you simply don’t need refrigeration anyway! Just put the lobster tails and prime rib in a cooler and set it outside! Once the ambient air gets closer to the freezing mark, then you can move the food back inside; the RV absorption refrigerator should operate fine at temperatures near freezing and above. Try to position the coach where maximum sunlight can be directed onto the lower refrigerator vent at the side of the RV when operating the absorption refrigerator during cold weather.
    " Im not sure my fridge has this problem or not as I have found that if I shut mine off for about ten minutes and restart it . It will cool fine for several days."

    It seems that restarting the unit wouldn't clear up a freezing cooling unit for several days.

  6. #26
    Site Sponsor
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    New cooling unit arrived....tech was coming today but the snow sleet and freezing rain.....will it end?! LOL Anyway the tech said Dometic usually wants the old cooling unit back but told him to just dispose of it....hmmmm, are they aware of problems?????

    So tomorrow will be the day it looks like. at least we have been able to use an outside tub to keep things nice and cold.

    oh, next year during winter, we are booked in S. Carolina! average each day i look seems to be 20* warmer.......
    Jim and Belinda H. Pa.

    2018 337RLS- 2nd ac, dual pane windows, table and chairs, Kodiak disc brakes 12-28-17 (Thanks Ed!)
    720w solar, 100/50 Victron scc


  7. #27
    Long Hauler
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    Jim

    There has been not much problem keeping stuff cold here in Pa. Last week I visited my dad who winters in Florida and it was nice to say the least, a little rainy though but much better than the shtuff we have been putting up with here at home.
    Glad you are making headway on the fridge, maybe the tech can shed some light on any issues.

    Brian

  8. #28
    Site Sponsor
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    Fridge fixed. Luke's mobile rv tech Pocono area.

    Did a fantastic job. Cleaned back of fridge after removing old cooling unit. Put nice wide bead of a dialectric caulking on backside of coils attached new unit and really taped off any air gaps as well. Took about 4.5 hours. Yayyy. Now to remove the tote from the snow bank that was our icebox! LOL
    Jim and Belinda H. Pa.

    2018 337RLS- 2nd ac, dual pane windows, table and chairs, Kodiak disc brakes 12-28-17 (Thanks Ed!)
    720w solar, 100/50 Victron scc


  9. #29
    Long Hauler
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    Jim

    Good timing , spring is just around the corner, or I guess summer being as we don't have much of spring time here.

    Brian

  10. #30
    Left The Driveway
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    Had problems with Norcold 4 Door also, Wire came loose , reattached, helped lots , also Norcold rep told us hinge pins on upper frig should NOT be showng. fix/ pull doors off and add nylon washer(s) at bottom. Sag on these doors has been major problem

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