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Thread: Stove won't come up to temp.
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02-04-2019, 10:12 AM #1
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Stove won't come up to temp.
We have 2016 350M with the Suburban range/oven, model SRNA3LBSE. Worked great the first time out then the fun started. First the pilot would go out when the burner cycled on and off. Hmm wrong pilot from Suburban I'm told, part was free, install was $75.00. OK pilot stays lit now! Rest of the trip is fine.
6 months at home then we head to Florida, first night out, cant keep the stove lit, the water heater, the furnace lit..What the heck!? RV repair in the morning finds a bad regulator/switching valve, bad shuttle valve. Replaced unit, everything works again!! Well until the next day when we lit the oven and it won't get any hotter than 250 degrees!! About this time into the new stove for $200 + and still isn't working! Oh just so I don't forget, the piezo electric spark is frozen and needs to be replaced also!
So I guess after this long winded missive the question is, what the heck do i do now? Replace the manifold? Throw the whole damn stove out and try again?
I am open to suggestion.....
Bob
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02-26-2019, 09:40 AM #2
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Bob, have you talked to Suburban customer service after the first repair about this? Maybe they can come up with something to help. Or possibly GD CS can run interference as a goodwill gesture and get Suburban to replace the whole darned thing. Cant hurt to try.
That is way too much (In my opinion) to have to invest into a 3 yr old stove.Marcy & Gary
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02-27-2019, 09:25 AM #3
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I try real hard to work within the system, be patient and helpful when components under warranty are not working as expected. But there is a limit, when I reach that limit I cut my losses and get the component completely replaced. A lemon will never make orange juice.
Dallas
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02-27-2019, 05:15 PM #4
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@TucsonJim posted recently helping an individual with a propane issue. He recommended a method to determine if the volume of propane being delivered was below the required amount. Have you considered the problem could be propane related? I've re-read your post, so I know the regulator was replaced, but what if there's a partial clog in the line?
Hopefully Jim sees this (or someone else with propane experience) and chimes in. All I know about propane is that 1) it stinks when there's a leak and 2) if there's a big enough leak, add a spark and you'll get a really neat fireworks display. (Now you know why I pinged Jim to chime in.)2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
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02-27-2019, 06:31 PM #5
Dallas - Dang. I know this must be frustrating as heck.
The simple way to check for adequate propane flow is to turn on all of your stove top burners. Once they are burning correctly, fire up the furnace. If the flames go down, you still have a propane problem.
Jim
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02-28-2019, 03:26 AM #6
Could also be the other regulator. I know on my Momentum, there is the switch over regulator on the street side that connects both LP tanks, but on the curb side there is a smaller regulator as well. Also, to be on the safe side, have you checked your propane tanks lately to make sure they are full?
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02-28-2019, 10:33 AM #7
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Uh, guys, Bob is the one with the stove problem, I have a furnace problem, different thread...
But the point ya'll are making is that Bob may have a fuel supply problem not a stove problem. I use my stove to evaluate my propane supply. Stove on, full even flame all the way around, good pressure. One or two holes not at full or red flickering of flame indicated low pressure or air in the line.
Another simple test I do is line pressure retention. Turn the stove on so it has full blue flame, let it burn for a minute or two and turn it off. Water heater and fridge on electric, furnace off. Then I go turn the propane tank valves off, go to bed. Next morning go out and check the switchover thingy, if it's red I have a propane leak somewhere.
And I was kind of hinting to Bob that he may be better off chucking the stove and getting a better one.Dallas
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