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  1. #181
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    This is the problem . . . assuming that the kid who answered the phone at the supplier, is the "expert". As soon as he said "connect the black to neutral" you are right that this should set off your alarm bells!
    I didn't listen to my inner voice that said "something's not right". I should have sent Garret (the engineer) an email for verification before proceeding. While I'm still mad, ultimately it is my install and I connected the wires.

    Monday I will take out the 6/3 out and run 6/2. (No, I can't just move wires. I snipped off the copper ground wire on both ends. Cables are now too short.) I'm going to be taking it apart anyway to finish the console and other minor projects to make it look nice and neat, so the loss is about $180 in wire and a few hours time. (I can't have you looking at the install in August the way it looks now!)

    In the big scheme of things a minor setback. It's all good.
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  2. #182
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    Unless your inverter/charger is wired differently than mine, there are only 3 places for wires - Black, white, and ground. Does your inverter have room for four wires?
    2017 F350 4x4 6.7 Turbo Diesel
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  3. #183
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ditchdigger View Post
    Doesn't all of the power to the trailer go through the inverter/smart ATS? If so that is why it is 6/3 wire required, you are putting 240 volts through it ( red and black load, white neutral, copper ground ). If it was just the voltage from the inverter like mine ( just a ATS) then it would be just 120 volts coming from the inverter.
    The short answer: no. 240V is never used anywhere in the trailer.

    Long answer:
    Below is AM Solar's unmodified diagram. (Caution: This is not a wiring schematic, per se, but it shows you how it works.)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	AMSolar Unmodified.jpg 
Views:	51 
Size:	80.8 KB 
ID:	19505

    Look closely at the SmartATS. When shore power/generator is available, two separate 120V lines power L1 and L2 (just like a stock trailer). Note that L1 from the GEN IN is tied to both L1 and L2 at the SHORE IN relay.

    When shore power is not available the inverter provides a single 120V source on both L1 and L2. The overall power available is still only 3000W, but all of the outlets in the trailer have access to that power.

    The advantage should be obvious. No sub-panels, no limiting yourself to just one leg in your c/b panel with power from the inverter, etc.

    This is the reason I went with AMSolar. There's nothing else out there (that I found) that is such an elegant answer to the problem of an inverter having a single 120V output with the trailer having two 120V lines (a.k.a. 50A service).

    If I haven't blown up your brain cells yet, consider as well the Victron's inverter hybrid or assist mode. AMSolar's setup works fantastic with limited shore power and the inverter "helping". The two sources combine and are made available to all of the trailer's circuits.

    I may have some detail above wrong and I hope a real electrician chimes in to correct me if I got something wrong. All I know is it works. And works seamlessly without any intervention from me.
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  4. #184
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    Howard...sorry to hear about the challenges. I had to re-read this a couple times to figure out what mistake you made. It sounds like you wired 6/3 from the Inverter Input/Output which should be 6/2. I know AM Solar provides this wire but I had the same issue that it was too short the 6/2 wire they provided. I ended up going to home depot to buy more 6/2 wire to make the second run from the inverter....and that stuff is not cheap!

    It might be worth having a phone call with Garett to explain what happened. With your issues and misinformation you have been provided I would try and see if they would ship you more 6/2 free of charge (or cheaply) rather than spending another $180 at home depot. The only issue is you will have to wait....which I am sure you would like to get it taken care of quickly. I would think with their misinformation they would do this to make the costumer happy.

    On a positive note, you are close and you know it works which is great news!
    Damon and Colleen
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  5. #185
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nomado View Post
    It sounds like you wired 6/3 from the Inverter Input/Output which should be 6/2.
    I can't wait for AMSolar to ship the wiring. I have a trip scheduled and must get the work completed. Monday morning it all comes back apart and I will fix the wiring, cover the console to make it look good, etc. Target is 100% by Wednesday.

    What really mystifies me is Garret sent me an email with the wires required and he wrote I needed 6/3 from the inverter to the SmartATS. To show you this is not a "he said, she said" situation here's the email (again, posted with his permission):

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Garret Wire Email.jpg 
Views:	41 
Size:	84.0 KB 
ID:	19509
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  6. #186
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dopperud View Post
    Unless your inverter/charger is wired differently than mine, there are only 3 places for wires - Black, white, and ground. Does your inverter have room for four wires?
    Nope, mine is like yours. Only three connections. It's a single 120V line (with ground). Very obvious (now) that it was a stupid mistake.
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  7. #187
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by howson View Post
    The short answer: no. 240V is never used anywhere in the trailer.

    Long answer:
    Below is AM Solar's unmodified diagram. (Caution: This is not a wiring schematic, per se, but it shows you how it works.)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	AMSolar Unmodified.jpg 
Views:	51 
Size:	80.8 KB 
ID:	19505

    Look closely at the SmartATS. When shore power/generator is available, two separate 120V lines power L1 and L2 (just like a stock trailer). Note that L1 from the GEN IN is tied to both L1 and L2 at the SHORE IN relay.

    When shore power is not available the inverter provides a single 120V source on both L1 and L2. The overall power available is still only 3000W, but all of the outlets in the trailer have access to that power.

    The advantage should be obvious. No sub-panels, no limiting yourself to just one leg in your c/b panel with power from the inverter, etc.

    This is the reason I went with AMSolar. There's nothing else out there (that I found) that is such an elegant answer to the problem of an inverter having a single 120V output with the trailer having two 120V lines (a.k.a. 50A service).

    If I haven't blown up your brain cells yet, consider as well the Victron's inverter hybrid or assist mode. AMSolar's setup works fantastic with limited shore power and the inverter "helping". The two sources combine and are made available to all of the trailer's circuits.

    I may have some detail above wrong and I hope a real electrician chimes in to correct me if I got something wrong. All I know is it works. And works seamlessly without any intervention from me.
    I am trying to figure out where the batteries tie in to the inverter???? On mine you do not have any 120 volts going IN to the inverter, it is all 12 volts in and 120 volts out. to the ATS.?????????????????????????
    2012 Chevy 3500 DRW DURAMAX
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  8. #188
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ditchdigger View Post
    I am trying to figure out where the batteries tie in to the inverter???? On mine you do not have any 120 volts going IN to the inverter, it is all 12 volts in and 120 volts out. to the ATS.?????????????????????????
    You're only seeing the AC side of the circuit. The one below is not 100% representative of my system, but it is very close. (I didn't use the Lynx Distributor.)

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Slide8.jpg 
Views:	52 
Size:	92.8 KB 
ID:	19512
    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  9. #189
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by howson View Post
    Monday I will take out the 6/3 out and run 6/2. (No, I can't just move wires. I snipped off the copper ground wire on both ends. Cables are now too short.)
    Hi Howard,

    As I understand this, you have three 6 ga wires in place right now. (Just not using the bare copper ground in the 6/3 cable). The only problem is the color of the insulation. I would use this wire and change the insulation color of the exposed sections with electrical tape or, better yet, shrink tube. The electricity will not care what color the insulation is . And, having less than consistent wire colours is nothing new to RVs! (Save the $180 . . . you have the right gauge wire in place).

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  10. #190
    Site Sponsor gbkims's Avatar
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    Agree that it's easier to use the colored electrical tape to mark exposed ends of the wires.

    I think the biggest plus is it worked, not smoke!
    - Gene

    Kim & Gene
    2015 Reflection 317RST
    2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank

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