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  1. #1
    Left The Driveway bamagiantfan's Avatar
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    Red face 303RLS Water Heater

    My wife is reporting no hot water coming out when the hot water faucets are turned on. Pressure has been decreasing over time. I have read what I could find on the forum regarding issues and many point to a hot water tank check valve issue(s) on the tank outlet. I did some additional insulating behind the drawer in the kitchen where there was an exposed opening to the underside of the RV, and think I remember seeing the tank there.
    1. Does this sound like a check valve issue? If not, any suggestions?
    2. What is the best way to access the check valve if it is believed to be the problem?
    3. Has anyone replaced (or removed) the plastic check valve permanently or replaced it with an alternate, and if so, how did that work out for you?

    The RV is 5 years old and in Montgomery, Alabama, where freezing of any part of the water system is a rare and managable concern. We have heat traced piping from the source to the RV. There was recent water main work in the area of the RV park, so I planned to replace the regulator and filter which may have been partially clogged by loose debris in the piping associated with the work, but then the hot water issue surfaced.

    I am a mechanical engineer so I can follow along but am completely new to RVing and the issues that come with owning one. I'll take all the help I can get.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Site Team WhittleBurner's Avatar
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    in the 303 you have to take the back wall of the basement off to access the water heater and have patience. If you haven't looked back there yet you may be in for a surprise of a wired spaghetti mess.
    Being a 5 yr old model you will soon hear the propane detector go off and need to replace it.
    And welcome to the forum!

    Last edited by WhittleBurner; 02-28-2019 at 07:27 AM.
    Marcy & Gary
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  3. #3
    Site Sponsor 2hams's Avatar
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    We never had to dig into the water heater in our 303, but you could also access it by opening the door screwed shut on the bottom of the hutch. Ours was a very early model, and this might have changed.


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  4. #4
    Long Hauler howson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamagiantfan View Post
    My wife is reporting no hot water coming out when the hot water faucets are turned on. Pressure has been decreasing over time. I have read what I could find on the forum regarding issues and many point to a hot water tank check valve issue(s) on the tank outlet. I did some additional insulating behind the drawer in the kitchen where there was an exposed opening to the underside of the RV, and think I remember seeing the tank there.
    1. Does this sound like a check valve issue? If not, any suggestions?
    2. What is the best way to access the check valve if it is believed to be the problem?
    3. Has anyone replaced (or removed) the plastic check valve permanently or replaced it with an alternate, and if so, how did that work out for you?

    The RV is 5 years old and in Montgomery, Alabama, where freezing of any part of the water system is a rare and managable concern. We have heat traced piping from the source to the RV. There was recent water main work in the area of the RV park, so I planned to replace the regulator and filter which may have been partially clogged by loose debris in the piping associated with the work, but then the hot water issue surfaced.

    I am a mechanical engineer so I can follow along but am completely new to RVing and the issues that come with owning one. I'll take all the help I can get.

    Thanks in advance.
    This is a thread for Mighty Plumber (aka @Rob).

    2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
    2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)

  5. #5
    Left The Driveway bamagiantfan's Avatar
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    So an update. The water pressure and lack of hot water are separate issues. I fixed the water pressure by removing the new "shoe rak" my wife put under the sink. She was trying to make better use of the space under the island (aren't we all) an she pinchd the hose in the back. Pressure is now normal.

    The water heater is anything but normal. First, both the electric and propane switches are "on" and neither is producing hot water. I toggled them back and forth....nothing. As for the propane, when the switch is toggled on, there is no DSI light at all. I see both switches connect to a 10A fuse behind the main control switch board. I may start with that, just need to go pick up the fuse.

    I've found the forum for water and plumbing and saw references to the control board. It may be that simple and I think that is where I need to look next, even if it is to check the fuses and wiring for shorts in the area of the water heater itself. Where is the exterior panel for the heater? I've seen it referenced but it isn't that obvious to me. One poster mentioned the door screwed shut in the kitchen under the buffet, another thought behind the wall of the pass thru. Also, I see the control board is available on Amazon but does anyone know the part#? I'll be calling Grand Design to see if they have any thoughts as well.

    Our 303RLS is a 2014 with an Atwood refrigerator, so I'm guessing an Atwood water heater as well.

    When my wife selected the 5th wheel she out-sized my Chevy 1500 so we had it towed to where it currently sits until I decide between a 2500 and 3500 for the next truck. As you may be able to tell I am making trips back and forth to the 5th wheel to try and resolve this problem. She has access to showers with hot water so the situation is manageable, for now.

  6. #6
    Long Hauler
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    Another thing to check, Do you have an outside water spigot at the water hook up panel? If so check to see if the hot and cold are turned on. If they are this will cause mixing and low hot water temps.

    Brian

  7. #7
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    @bamagiantfan,

    The first thing that I would suggest is as Brian describes in post 6 . . . this is a common cause.
    The next thing to check is the "water heater bypass valve on the main Kantleak water connection panel. This needs to be in the vertical "normal" position.

    The water heater is behind the buffet door that is screwed shut, but there is nothing to be accessed here. Access is through the black square panel on the outside.

    Blip open the pressure relief valve (upper right brass valve with a metal lever) to make sure that there is water in the water heater.
    I would first go over each electrical connector accessible through that outside door to make sure than none are loose or corroded. This is another common problem. There is a fusible link on one of the thermostat connectors than could also be the problem. BTW . . . the control board will usually "hum" when it is working.

    Are one or the other or both of the red lights at the main panel on when you turn on the switches?
    Pull out the lowest center buffet drawer and make sure the water heater is plugged in (a regular 120V plug) . . . once you are sure that there is water in the tank.

    I see that you are a "registered guest" on this forum, so you will not be able to open attachments or pictures. You may be interested in becoming a "site sponsor" for access to the many pictures and attachments. See the paid membership tab at the top. The cost is $12 per year and is the reason that this forum runs with no advertising or pop-ups. If you do this, we can point you to pictures, drawings and other attachments that might help.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  8. #8
    Left The Driveway bamagiantfan's Avatar
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    Thanks Rob. You answered another question I had about not being able to access links. I just registered a little while ago and saw the notice for the sponsorship today. $12? As moderator of a New York Giants message board, all I can say is, it ain't enough. Ill take care of that.

    No lights are on for the main panel for propane or electric W/H switches. I'll check the plug.

  9. #9
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bamagiantfan View Post
    Thanks Rob. You answered another question I had about not being able to access links. I just registered a little while ago and saw the notice for the sponsorship today. $12? As moderator of a New York Giants message board, all I can say is, it ain't enough. Ill take care of that.

    No lights are on for the main panel for propane or electric W/H switches. I'll check the plug.
    bamagiantsfan - Welcome to this forum as a site sponsor! There are a lot of Reflection 303 owners on this forum with a lot of experience in solving problems. Some (like me ) have been doing this since your rig was built! It has some "idiosyncrasies" . . . but, we can walk you through solving these.

    You have some reading to catch up on. Things like greased brakes, the "Kantleak" water panel, etc . . . welcome to your new "hobby" LOL!

    One of the 12V fuses in the main panel should be feeding power to the water heater switches. There should be a red light on beside the blown fuse (if this is the problem).

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  10. #10
    Left The Driveway bamagiantfan's Avatar
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    Just to update, I was disconnecting the fusible link to check when I heard a click. I thought it was the sparker but I couldn't be sure. What was clear was the corrosion on the thermal cutoff fuse on the brown wire side. I killed the power and after a little cleanup, I turned the power back on and the sparker clicked three times and the heater fired up on propane. We shut off the propane switch later and the electric water heating is now working a well.

    I'm going to replace the fuse assembly to make sure it wasn't a short in the fuse rather than the corrosion that I was mistaking for the problem.

    Thanks to everyone for the help.
    (Mods, you may move this to the Plumbing and Water Systems when it has run its course on the general forum)

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