Help with wheel bearing

[Nick1234]

Please excuse the long post. But, I'm stuck. I am in the process of repacking bearings. I only have a little under 4000 miles on the trailer, but, I thought I would do a bearing maintenance. The first two wheels went without a hitch. But, once I got on the third wheel, that's when I had some trouble. It was fairly difficult to remove the hub, but, with a little extra effort I was able to get it off. First thing I noticed was a lot of what I would think to be break dust. I was able to remove the dust by wetting everything down with break cleaner. Even the dust came off of the break liners without problem. I cleaned the old grease from the hub and bearings. The inner bearing looked very good along with the bearing race. I cleaned the outer bearing and noticed that the rollers have a brown tinge to them, however evenly distributed. I assume this is from heat, hopefully not. The bearing spins freely and even has that rattle noise where the rollers are moving when I shake them. The serial number on the bearing is LM67048 and has a VNC also marked on it. I had to reassemble the wheel so I can move the trailer back to where I park it. I guess I need to order a new bearing, but, not sure what number to order. I have a spec sheet from Dexter which says the bearing number is "Bearing 1 031-032-02 and Bearing 2 031-032-02". Not sure if the outer bearing is 1 or 2. So, that said, which number do I order; LM67048 or the number listed on the Dexter spec sheet? For those who have replaced their bearings, hopefully you can help me figure out which bearing to get. Also, like I mentioned, the race looks very good. No pits, scratches or discoloration. Do I need to replace the race? Axles are Dexter 5200 lbs, Trailer is 2019 303RLS.

Thank you

[phonemannn]

here it is
https://www.qualitybearingsonline.co...SABEgJaM_D_BwE
The race should be ok, as a matter of fact IMO the bearing is still good. Pitting is the problem on bearings...IMO

[mageorge]

I believe that scorching is from the castle nut being tightened too much. So those bearings need to be replaced


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[phonemannn]

I believe that scorching is from the castle nut being tightened too much. So those bearings need to be replaced


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See everyone has there opinion. Cant hurt to replace...

[Nick1234]

I believe that scorching is from the castle nut being tightened too much. So those bearings need to be replaced


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Actually, no castle nut. Regular nut with nut retainer.

[Nick1234]

here it is
https://www.qualitybearingsonline.co...SABEgJaM_D_BwE
The race should be ok, as a matter of fact IMO the bearing is still good. Pitting is the problem on bearings...IMO

Thanks for the cross reference for Timkin bearing. Here is another rookie question, If I change the outer bearing to Timkin, do I need to replace the inner with Temkin also? If it doesn't make any difference, I will replace with Timkin next bearing service

[LV Naturist]

Being an old school mechanic, that bearing does look questionable. Best practice would be to replace the bearing and race as a pair. They do form a wear pattern together.

John

[Cate&Rob]

Hi Nick,

Although Mike is probably right that the slight discolouring of those bearing rollers is probably from heat . . . it is very minor. I agree with phonemannn that what you are looking out for is pitting of the rollers or deep scoring of the rollers or races. Those small rotational lines on the bearings are normal and not a problem.

Bearings and races should always be replaced as a pair. Getting the race out of the hub can go easily . . . or can be a real bear. Because of this, I would be inclined to reuse that bearing . . . unless you are going to be travelling a lot more than 4000 miles before the next inspection/repack.

Mike is right about not tightening the spindle nut (whether castle nut and cotter pin, or regular nut and retainer) too tight. There should be an almost imperceptible end play (but it should be there) in the final adjustment when everything is cold. When all these parts warm up, every one will expand a little and that little bit of end play will be gone. If it wasn't there to begin with, this expansion of all the components will cause the bearing to be too tight.

Rob

[Nick1234]

Hi Nick,

Although Mike is probably right that the slight discolouring of those bearing rollers is probably from heat . . . it is very minor. I agree with phonemannn that what you are looking out for is pitting of the rollers or deep scoring of the rollers or races. Those small rotational lines on the bearings are normal and not a problem.

Bearings and races should always be replaced as a pair. Getting the race out of the hub can go easily . . . or can be a real bear. Because of this, I would be inclined to reuse that bearing . . . unless you are going to be travelling a lot more than 4000 miles before the next inspection/repack.

Mike is right about not tightening the spindle nut (whether castle nut and cotter pin, or regular nut and retainer) too tight. There should be an almost imperceptible end play (but it should be there) in the final adjustment when everything is cold. When all these parts warm up, every one will expand a little and that little bit of end play will be gone. If it wasn't there to begin with, this expansion of all the components will cause the bearing to be too tight.

Rob

Rob. Thanks for the input. As far as the tightening goes, I followed the Dexter maintenance instructions, and tightened the nut to 50 ft lbs while rotating the hub. Once at 50 ft lbs, I backed of the hub nut and tighten finger tight. Then I checked for minor rotation of the hub nut. That should set the bearings properly

[BB&LAB]

Being an old school mechanic, that bearing does look questionable. Best practice would be to replace the bearing and race as a pair. They do form a wear pattern together.

John

Yes. IMHO, when in doubt replace the bearings and the race. There is a fair amount of work involved in getting the bearings out and cleaned etc. and considering the bearings are a critical component, why take chances.