Brainstorming P1 rebuild

[Jims94vmx]

I am intrigued by the use of manifolds. So before I start my rebuild can we discuss options?

If using a manifold do the valves directing flow still work? I could use a drawing to help wrap my head around it.

With all the smart folks on this forum it can be done better then the spaghetti it is now.

I might have a new panel to use to put together new fittings while mine stays in tact.....if that is the case I was thinking I could send mine to someone else.....will know later today.

[TucsonJim]

Jim - When I remodeled our bathroom, I purchased a PEX manifold through Lowe's on-line. You can see a photo below. This might be a good product to begin your design.



Take a look at all the options on this Amazon link:

Manifolds

Jim

[howson]

I am intrigued by the use of manifolds. So before I start my rebuild can we discuss options?

Definitely following this thread! Look forward to your updates.

[Jims94vmx]

Good news, able to score a panel. Now to get your he designing a better way using a manifold.

When I get done I will be happy to ship my old panel to someone else who wants to build without interfering with water supply.

Figured just pay shipping. Box was only 6lbs

[Cate&Rob]

I am intrigued by the use of manifolds. So before I start my rebuild can we discuss options?

If using a manifold do the valves directing flow still work? I could use a drawing to help wrap my head around it.

With all the smart folks on this forum it can be done better then the spaghetti it is now.

I might have a new panel to use to put together new fittings while mine stays in tact.....if that is the case I was thinking I could send mine to someone else.....will know later today.

Hi Jim,

The manifold concept is a way to divide up the output of the pump or city water source. The manifold cannot replace the valves that select the source of water, fill the water tank, or isolate the water heater for winterizing.

The output of the pump or city supply could go to a "cold water manifold". The output of the water heater could go to a "hot water manifold". From there, each faucet would have its own dedicated line. Not common is residential, but quite possible would be to put a valve on each individual output line as shown in the previous RV system picture.

The "manifold" is essentially a series of Ts. In our GDRV products there is a main line that runs throughout all the cold or hot fixtures with a T for each. This is kind of like a "long" manifold. To replace this with a manifold as shown in previous pictures would require considerable re-plumbing.

Many years ago, I built a manifold system for the water supply to an entire Yacht Club. (the attached picture) The reason being that we wanted to be able to shut off and blow out the water lines to remote areas (the docks) at freezing temps, while still having water in different parts of the clubhouse. As temps got colder, we could shut off water to the uninsulated kitchen and bar . . . leaving only the insulated and heated washrooms when it got really cold. This concept could be applied within an RV.

Rob

[2825Matheny]

When we got our 2016 ST369RL almost 4 years ago we almost immediately had two Kan_Leak valve failures. After several conversations with GD they were more than helpful and even offered to ship me a new Nautilus P1 assembly that could be exchanged for the Kan_Leak assembly. So, before I committed to that I dug in and started doing some research. The more I learned about the 5 functions that a water system on and RV is supposed to be able to perform and analyzing the complexity of both the Kan_Leak and Nautilus P1 systems, I called GD and said, thanks, but no thanks. The Natilus P1 is just too complex for the simple tasks that it is called upon to perform. There are too many opportunities for leaks and failures, it is just not robust.
I engineered and installed an entirely new water system. Being an engineer, I took the route to look for the best and least complex solution that was user friendly, the least likely to leak, and easy to operate and understand by just about anyone. Thus, I "invented" the Matheny System. I set out by using parts and components that were readily available off the shelf that were not unique or special so if I did have issues down the road it would be maintainable. One other objective was to remove all of the TS-25 flexible blue hose and replace it with PEX to ensure the system was leak free.

I get your fascination with the "manifold" approach. But, I will say that an RV water system is more simple than that and installing a manifold will require the addition of many feet of PEX to get from the manifold to the user points which will also require dropping the Coroplast belly sheet to gain access to the belly space to add the extra PEX. And as Rob said, it will not do anything to replace the Nautilus P1 assembly. A distribution manifold only is used for getting water to go where it's supposed to go AFTER you select where is coming from and how it going to be propelled (pump or hose).

I have added photos to this post and here is a link to my Google Drive Folder that has just about everything anyone would ever need to duplicate what I have done. So far, I know of two other GD design owners that have done this too and they confirm it is a good system.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1...UZLdTNFWk8xV0E

This is how I would teach someone how to use my "manifold valve" setup. 1st I would ask them "where is the water coming from, tank or hose?" If from the hose then open the bottom left valve. If from the tank then open the bottom right valve. 2nd I would ask them, "where do you want the water to go, pump or fixtures? If to the pump, then open the top left valve. If directly to the fixtures, then open the top right valve. If after they determine where the water comes from and where it is going to, and have adjusted valves, I would say that if a top valve that is open is on the opposite side of the bottom valve that is open then open the crossover middle valve too. That's all there is to it.

I have been using this for 3 years and it is pretty much bullet-proof from failures and it really is simple to use.

One of the two "mods" I added was the addition of a 2nd water filter housing. This 2nd filter ensures that water is filtered right before it goes to the fixtures. (see schematic) I found that water from the fresh water tank had a "plastic"odor to it. This 2nd filter does the trick to remove any odors. When I am hooked up to a hose supply, the the water gets filters twice before delivery to the fixtures and it protects the next mod, a water softener.
The other mod I did was to add a fully automatic water softener just like what would be in a sticks and bricks house, only it's smaller. Having soft water has been great to eliminate water spots and "crud" that built up around fixtures and soap and shampoo actually foam up now.

I approached GD to ask them if they wanted to commercialize this, but since it was "home-made" they said no. They wanted something that was already commercialized and that is why they use the Nautilus P1 today.

[Jims94vmx]

WOW that is something! Great job guys. How about a behind the curtain peek.....Love the ingenuity of folks.

[2825Matheny]

Jim, click on the link in my post and it will take you to photos, documents, pdf's and more for a "behind the scenes look".

And, if you want to have a conversation about the Roadmaster Comfort Ride slipper springs with shock absorbers (was known as Joyrider), I would be happy to do so.

[Jims94vmx]

Jim, click on the link in my post and it will take you to photos, documents, pdf's and more for a "behind the scenes look".

And, if you want to have a conversation about the Roadmaster Comfort Ride slipper springs with shock absorbers (was known as Joyrider), I would be happy to do so.

Sounds great. Will take a look. Appreciate the feedback.

[TucsonJim]

Jamey - Thanks again for posting that link. It's on my list to accomplish some day.

Jim