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03-23-2019, 03:10 PM #1
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Any tips on replacing screws that hold coroplast to frame?
I spent last few days dropping the coroplast and dealing with and repainting surface rust that had developed between the coroplast and bottom part of the frame. That all went well, but two of the self tapping /drilling screws sheared off in removing them. I need to replace them into new holes but have no clue what drill bit to create the pilot hole. Initially tried just screwing them with a impact driver- no go lol. I have some titanium coated dewalt bits but doubt that will be strong enough without breaking going through the frame. Any recommendations?
I am using the same size and type of screws as OEMLast edited by Hwktlg8; 03-23-2019 at 03:14 PM.
Ryan and Alison
2017 Solitude 377MBS-R
Titan electric/hydraulic disc brakes
Morryde CRE 3000, xmembers x3, WBs,4k springs
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03-23-2019, 03:26 PM #2
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I believe a drill bit will work fine. I drilled into the frame to secure a wire, the metal wasn't that hard.
2019 Reflection 312BHTS TT Sold
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03-23-2019, 03:34 PM #3
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- Jul 2018
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- Salem, Virginia
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I use a drill bit a little smaller than the bit end of the screw. The screw will finish the hole. I also use a fender washer on the screw.
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03-23-2019, 03:47 PM #4
x2 on the advice from Hokensalem . . . that is what I do. The factory drives these drill/screws without a pilot hole . . . but, I have never had much luck with doing that. Having these screws break when you try to remove them, is not uncommon. If you have time to plan the coroplast removal, spraying the OE screws with penetrating oil a day or so before, seems to help.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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03-23-2019, 03:51 PM #5
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- Mar 2017
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I've gotten some broken ones out by putting vise grips on the drill point end of the screw and loosening it, then a small crescent wrench to unscrew, a pain, but works sometimes.
- Gene
Kim & Gene
2015 Reflection 317RST
2017 Ram 3500 CC LB 4x2 6.7 CTD AISIN 3.73 DRW Auto Level Rear Air, BD3, Prodigy P3, Aux Tank
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03-23-2019, 03:55 PM #6
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- Mar 2017
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Thanks everyone..it doesnt sound like it should be hard at all. Like the idea of trying to get broken ones out first. Less holes in the frame=less rust= longer before I have to repaint again!
Ryan and Alison
2017 Solitude 377MBS-R
Titan electric/hydraulic disc brakes
Morryde CRE 3000, xmembers x3, WBs,4k springs
2017 GMC 3500 Duramax Denali SRW Airlift bags with wireless control
Pullrite 2900 autoslide hitch
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03-23-2019, 03:55 PM #7
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- Mar 2015
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- Full Time - Domicile State is TN
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Be careful when drilling the frame I-beam flange.
Laying on top of the inside flange of the frame I-beam are hydraulic hoses and all kinds of wires.
When drilling up through that flange, if your drill bit hits a hydraulic hose it will take you about 2 hours to remove the old hose, take it to a hydraulic shop to have a new hose assembly made, install the new hose, refill the hydraulic reservoir, and clean up the mess....just say'n.Peggy and Jamey Matheny
2016 Grand Design Solitude 5th Wheel 369RL Serial #G1104808
As of 19 April 2019, 792 nights and 23,887 trailer miles.
2015 Ford F-250 4X4 Super Cab SRW 148" WB 6.7L Powerstroke Diesel
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03-23-2019, 04:15 PM #8
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- Mar 2017
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Good Reminder Jamey..i noticed this as well. Thankfully there was enough slack to “lasso” that bundle of fun with some gorilla tape and I suspended it up higher a bit just sticking the tape to the inside of the frame in a few spots. Im sure it will eventually fall down again when the tape loosens but shouldnt take that long to put up the coroplast again.
Ryan and Alison
2017 Solitude 377MBS-R
Titan electric/hydraulic disc brakes
Morryde CRE 3000, xmembers x3, WBs,4k springs
2017 GMC 3500 Duramax Denali SRW Airlift bags with wireless control
Pullrite 2900 autoslide hitch
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03-24-2019, 03:19 PM #9
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- Walthourville, GA which is just outside of Hinesville, GA home of the 3rd Infantry Division
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I bought a bag of 50 of these (3/8") in SSTL and the appropriate SSTL fender washers from Fastenal: https://www.fastenal.com/product/fas...ation=Material
The first couple I drilled pilot holes and my shoulders were wearing out from laying on my back and having to drill upwards. On the 3rd one, I said screw it (no pun intended) and just put it in the bit driver that was chucked into my Dewalt 1/4" impact driver ( This thing is a beast https://www.dewalt.com/products/powe...r-bare/dcf887b ) and in no time, that fastener had no issue in drilling its own hole and just zipped on in. From then on I did the same and didn't have one fastener that didn't drill its own hole. Put in probably 15 new and used the new SSTL screws in place of the original ones.
TomTom & Donna
Our RV: 2016 Reflection 337RLS 5th wheel
Our Tow Beast: 2017 Ram 3500 Limited Dually
Our Dogs: Sadie & Bugsey
Favorite Drink: Moonshine
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My Motto: May the bridges we burn light the way
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03-24-2019, 03:30 PM #10
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- Mar 2017
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- Des Moines, Iowa
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Thanks Tom- I will keep those fasteners in mind. I have the equivalent fastener but purchased at Menards. Probably cheaper weaker chinese quality. I too use the exact same 20v max dewalt impact driver (great tool) and the fastener drilling end just rounded off and didnt bite.
Ryan and Alison
2017 Solitude 377MBS-R
Titan electric/hydraulic disc brakes
Morryde CRE 3000, xmembers x3, WBs,4k springs
2017 GMC 3500 Duramax Denali SRW Airlift bags with wireless control
Pullrite 2900 autoslide hitch
Re-pack bearings necessary?
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