Reflection 295RL suspension modification suggestions?

[Banshee94]

GWK - When I purchased my Reflection travel trailer, it has plastic bushings, a straight metal equalizer and straight bolts. I purchased the MORryde CRE3000 equalizers, Wet bolt and bronze bushing kit and thicker shackles. It took me about six hours to do the complete install. Here's a photo:

so what are your thoughts on the upgrade? worth it?

[TucsonJim]

so what are your thoughts on the upgrade? worth it?

Very much worth it. I put on a lot of miles and know the suspension will last much longer before needing replacement. In addition, my original suspension was very squeaky. This one is quiet which means there are no metal on metal contacts.

Jim

[2825Matheny]

As mentioned in other posts, there are many options available to you to improve the ride of your RV. There are generally two criteria that drive which option an owner chooses, cost and technology. A good value-added option is some combination of both cost and technology. Also, a contributor is upgrading to a suspension that is as close to maintenance free as you can get.
I started out with the OEM Lippert equalizers with the standard dry bolt and light-duty shackles. Knowing that the system was not durable or effective, I looked for options. I went the route of upgrading to MORryde SRE 4000 equalizers and at the same time, I upgraded to the MORryde heavy duty shackle kit with bronze bushing and wet bolts. It seemed that I went a long way to set myself up for success with a "top of the line" suspension system. But, in spite of the fact that I was very good about greasing the wet bolts and regularly inspecting the system, 11,865 miles later both of the equalizers failed. MORryde was good enough to supply me with warranty replacements, but I just did not have warm and fuzzy feelings that more of the same was going to give me the degree of comfort and reliability that I was looking for.
Several years prior, I was introduced to the Roadmaster Comfort Ride Slipper Springs with shock absorber system at a Grand Design rally. I heard them out with their sales pitch. But, at the time I was not full-time and so I did not put as high of a value on what they were telling me. But, once I became full-time and after I had gone through two "decent" systems, it was time to go back and revisit the Roadmaster option.
I did and I pulled the trigger and that is what I now have. I have 3,742 miles on the Roadmaster system and every time I pull I am more convinced that it is one of the best mods I have done to my ST369RL.
The underlying principle of using equalizers on an RV is flawed. Forgive me if I sound like a salesman from Roadmaster, but this system is truly all that they advertise it to be. It is affordable, $1,370 for the kit. 80% of all kits sold are owner installed. With some mechanical skills, just about anyone can do it.

You can choose another independent suspension system offered by MORryde. I did not choose that one because it is twice the cost and installation is not something for the average guy. Almost all, if not all, of those systems, are installed by MORryde or a shop that has welding capabilities.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp5iRVPwYZg

Note: Watch at 2:28 and 4:15.
This is a good visual as to what happens during braking on all suspension systems using equalizers. Weight is transferred from the front axle to the rear. When the weight is transferred off of the front axle there is not enough weight on the front tires for them to maintain contact with the pavement and the front tires lock up.
This is called “axle roll-up”. During axle roll-up, the rear axle is carrying more weight than what it is rated for. All the weight that is lifted off of the front axle is put on the rear axle which overloads the rear axle. This is a contributor to broken leaf springs.
Even if drum brakes are replaced with disc brakes, axle roll-up will still occur if an equalizer is in use. The front tires will still have problems contributing to stopping the trailer because there is not enough weight on the front tires to keep them engaged with the pavement.
The solution is to replace the suspension with a type that does NOT use an equalizer.

Suspension systems using equalizers are cheap, unreliable, and not suited for the duty that they are asked to perform. Someone might say that because there are so many in use they all can't be bad. I say that just because everyone (all OEM's) are doing it, does not mean it is right. There is a better way that is tried and true because slipper springs have been in use on heavy-duty commercial trucks long before the modern 5th wheel RV trailer and they are durable, dependable, and they work.

Roadmaster Comfort Ride Slipper Springs System Features:
Axles are independent of each other.
No axle “roll-up” which will reduce braking distance.
Since the leaf springs are not tied together and the fact that only one end of each spring is fixed, they will be more independent to do their work to flex and absorb any energy being transmitted from the pavement to the trailer frame. Tests on the Navistar test track have proven that the amount of energy transferred from the pavement to the trailer frame is reduced by 70% when using slipper springs.
Since the axles will no longer be "working" on each other the life expectancy of the system is way more than a system with equalizers that hammers itself back and forth every time it hits a bump or pothole.
There are significantly fewer moving parts. An equalizer system has 14 moving parts and shackles. The Roadmaster system only has 4 leaf springs eyelets and they have lifetime no-grease Never-Fail bushings and there are no shackles.
The only maintenance that will be needed is periodic visual inspections. No greasing is required.
The system has shock absorbers. No more suspension rebound after a pothole or bump is encountered. Since the shocks are at a 15-degree angle, side to side, there will be less sway and rocking of the trailer.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Leaf-Spring-Suspension/Roadmaster/RM-2460-2570.html

Now, this is what I have on my RV, which has 7,000 lb 3" OD axles spaced 35" apart. You should talk to the guys at eTrailer or Roadmaster to ensure you get the correct kit for your setup. They are going to want to know axle nameplate data, the diameter of the axle tube, and the centerline spacing of the two axles.
Here is the contact info for the guys at Roadmaster. These are a couple of really smart guys that know RV suspension systems very well:
Sonny Dismuke 574-370-4515 [email protected]
Bob Mater 574-849-0533 [email protected]

[Banshee94]

So if you only got around 12,000 miles on aftermarket ones, what should we expect out of the stock setup. I have just over 3000 miles so far. Just greased them up for the season. Everything looked good.
I'd like to think we would get more then 12,000 miles out of them, after all the suspension is a major part of the camper and the mileage adds up faster for others going cross county etc.
Just trying to get a better understanding of the stock setup life span.

Thanks

[J&G garage]

I'll let you do the math but we've gone through 2 sets of axles, 3 sets of springs, 3 sets of brakes, two sets of bronze bushings, three spring hangers, 2 equalizers, on second set of tires and the shackles have been replaced with wider units and seem to be doing ok. I'm pretty sure the springs hangers that have not been replaced due to breakage are worn and that needs to be addressed at some point. All this in 30,000 miles. YMMV.

[reeldirtydawg]

Did replace my stock suspension with MoRryde SRE 4000. Have not gotten many miles on it but I will say it pulls better than the stock and makes a lot less noise.

[duke13]

Hello! I have just found my first problem with my equa flex system. I can not lub one of my wet bolts on my equa flex syatem. Actually it is the wet bolt that holds the end of the spring. I have parts ordered, new wet bolt but am now thinking I might also need a bushing. Also for you guys that have changed your systems. How did you manage jacking your trailer? I can't find any information as how to support the trailer to get it ready to change one wet bolt. I would appreciate any information. Thanks Duke

[reeldirtydawg]

I watched the YouTube video that Keep Your Day Dream posted and a couple of other videos. I used jack stands to support the frame.

[J&G garage]

Hello! I have just found my first problem with my equa flex system. I can not lub one of my wet bolts on my equa flex syatem. Actually it is the wet bolt that holds the end of the spring. I have parts ordered, new wet bolt but am now thinking I might also need a bushing. Also for you guys that have changed your systems. How did you manage jacking your trailer? I can't find any information as how to support the trailer to get it ready to change one wet bolt. I would appreciate any information. Thanks Duke

The hole in the wet bolt should be positioned at the 3:00 or 9:00 position. If this is not the case then the weight of the trailer can prevent the grease from flowing through the bolt. Sometimes simply jacking the trailer up by the frame will allow the bolt to take grease. These bolts can be installed out of position creating the issue you have. The small hole in the side of the bolt can become clogged with debris from the bushing and will have to be cleaned out. I use a small drill bit spun between my fingers for this. Keep in mind that the wet bolt will have serrations near the head that requires that the bolts are pressed into place and will not rotate without removing the bolt first. I use a 20 ton bottle jack on top of cribbing made from 2x4s to jack up our trailer.

[sanick]

Hi,

I have a 2019 Reflection 297RSTS like yours and looking to see what HD shackle kit you put on with the CRE3000

Thanks in advance