Back End Water Outlet Mod and Insulation Project

[chillybob]

Today I eliminated the rear water outlet by dropping the rear coroplast and cutting and plugging the blue water line. My handy Rob Plumbing kit contents were used for the very first time. (Thumbs up to Rob). I followed the line towards the front and found a tee on it going to the Island near the back of the fresh water tank. I cut and plugged the line about a foot from the tee and then insulated it and the rest of the lines the best I could. (I started insulating the lines when I changed the black tank valve recently.) The lines on my unit drop through the hole in the flooring and run down the beside the left side frame. They are right on top the aluminum sheet that sits on the coroplast at the low point drains. From there they are raised up six inches and run towards the rear. Near the rear of the fresh water tank, the hot and cold angle off to the Island and one line connects to the fresh water tank inlet. It is near the bottom of the fresh water tank. My point on spelling this out is to say they are not very hard to insulate by feel as you can’t see them well. They are not insulated at all when built. One of the 2” furnace lines terminates near the end of the fresh water tank. I tested it for flow with the furnace running and it might blow out a match and it might not. I suggest that the tee further up the line be restricted somehow to force more air downline.
The second part of the project was insulating the rear of the trailer between the frame. From the spare tire carrier back I had to use fiber glass insulation due to braces and then was able to get about 40” of 1” foam in front of the tire carrier. The aluminum reflective sheet was tight to the coroplast so I was not able to add insulation from the back wheels and forward under the island. However, i think that my unit is now better able to withstand colder temperatures, especially with the rear water line eliminated.

[440scout]

Today I eliminated the rear water outlet by dropping the rear coroplast and cutting and plugging the blue water line. My handy Rob Plumbing kit contents were used for the very first time. (Thumbs up to Rob). I followed the line towards the front and found a tee on it going to the Island near the back of the fresh water tank. I cut and plugged the line about a foot from the tee and then insulated it and the rest of the lines the best I could. (I started insulating the lines when I changed the black tank valve recently.) The lines on my unit drop through the hole in the flooring and run down the beside the left side frame. They are right on top the aluminum sheet that sits on the coroplast at the low point drains. From there they are raised up six inches and run towards the rear. Near the rear of the fresh water tank, the hot and cold angle off to the Island and one line connects to the fresh water tank inlet. It is near the bottom of the fresh water tank. My point on spelling this out is to say they are not very hard to insulate by feel as you can’t see them well. They are not insulated at all when built. One of the 2” furnace lines terminates near the end of the fresh water tank. I tested it for flow with the furnace running and it might blow out a match and it might not. I suggest that the tee further up the line be restricted somehow to force more air downline.
The second part of the project was insulating the rear of the trailer between the frame. From the spare tire carrier back I had to use fiber glass insulation due to braces and then was able to get about 40” of 1” foam in front of the tire carrier. The aluminum reflective sheet was tight to the coroplast so I was not able to add insulation from the back wheels and forward under the island. However, i think that my unit is now better able to withstand colder temperatures, especially with the rear water line eliminated.

Chillybob, I was looking for info on improving the insulation in the underbelly of my 310-gk and read your posting. I was really surprised nobody responded. So, I will. Have you been in cold temps since you made those mods and improvements and how did your camper perform?

[chillybob]

Chillybob, I was looking for info on improving the insulation in the underbelly of my 310-gk and read your posting. I was really surprised nobody responded. So, I will. Have you been in cold temps since you made those mods and improvements and how did your camper perform?

Hi
Since I insulated my unit above the back coroplast i haven’t encountered any cold weather camping. I would suggest using rock wool insulation instead of fiberglass. It will hold up better if it gets wet. Water seems to get into the belly from the road no matter how good it’s sealed. I put in a couple of duckbill drains in the coroplast to drain any standing water and also to drain if a water line breaks. Also, outside hose outlet was on the back of my unit so I cut it out to eliminate a potential freeze problem. I never used the outlet and it was bare with no insulation on it. I can’t say that I noticed any difference after adding the insulation at the back but it likely helped.

[440scout]

Ok, rock wool it is! Thanks for the advice.