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  1. #11
    Long Hauler Canyonlight's Avatar
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    @duke13 you may want to update your signature to include the year of your 303......2016 as you have shared in other threads. Various years have different build characteristics. Thus research and answers to questions will be different.

    You could also include other things like hitch, other key modifications, etc. as a number of folks have done.

    Dan
    Dan & Carol
    2014 303RLS Reflection #185 (10/2013 build)
    2012 Silverado LTZ Crew Duramax 2500HD
    2700/16K Pullrite Superglide

  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by TucsonJim View Post
    You'll need to remove both wheels, and then the shackle bolt before removing the spring bolt. Then insert the new spring bolt followed by the shackle bolt.

    While you have these parts disassembled, check out the condition of the bushings. Don't be surprised if all of your bushings need replacing

    Jim
    I have a set of Never Fail bushings that I bought for my 2015 Reflection TT new in box, if someone can use them I will be happy to mail them to you. First one to PM me their mailing address can have them.

  3. #13
    Long Hauler D2Reid's Avatar
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    All the above is good advice. Here is something for you to ponder on. I have had some little success of getting "frozen" grease fittings to accept grease by warming them up a bit. Heat gun is my favorite because the heat doesn't get extreme, but I have used a propane torch a time or to. Problem is, you can get it too hot. But you warm things up a bit and then apply grease. Sometime the magic works, sometimes it doesn't.
    Dallas
    2017 Momentum 376TH, 2019 Ford F450, Dual Rear Wheel, 4x4, diesel.
    2015 Harley-Davidson Street, XG750

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper
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    Thanks everyone. Today I decided to try one more thing while waiting for the new wet bolt. I removed the grease fitting and used a small drill and checked the hole in the wet bolt from the grease fitting to the bottom of the hole in the wet bolt. Then I sprayed some brake cleaner in the hole hoping to help clear any old grease. Still no luck. Guess I'll wait for the new wet bolt. Again . thanks for your thoughts.
    2016 Reflection 303 rls
    Titan Disc Brakes
    Hensley hitch
    2002 GMC Duramax 3:73 rear, 2 wheel drive

  5. #15
    Big Traveler
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    I have found that if a bushing hasn't been lubed bushing material builds up inside the side hole of the wet bolt. Cleaning out the hole with a small drill bit as mentioned above will get the grease flowing again.
    Jim & Georgianne
    N. California
    2016 Reflection 29RS
    2008 Ford F-250 Super Duty PSD
    B&W Companion hitch
    Rubber turtle with no name

  6. #16
    King Pin
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by J&G garage View Post
    I have found that if a bushing hasn't been lubed bushing material builds up inside the side hole of the wet bolt. Cleaning out the hole with a small drill bit as mentioned above will get the grease flowing again.
    I've seen the same thing Jim. Here's a pic:



    Jim

  7. #17
    Seasoned Camper
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    I believe you guys have hit the nail on the head !! I could use some tips on supporting the trailer and springs the correct way to pull the pin and replace the wet bolt. My problem is on one of the leaf spring hanger brackets. Mine is the front axel and where the spring attaches to the equa flex ( front hanger. ) THANKS As you can see I have tried a lot of things short of pulling the bolt. I also used a drill to cleanout the wet bolt and I even sprayed brake cleaner in the hole thinking it might help dissolve the old grease in the hole. ??
    Thanks for your help.
    Do you think I need to jack the entire trailer up? I was thinking maybe I could back the rear tire up on blocks and support the front axle with a jack . Then remove the front tire and then remove the very front wet bolt.?? Any thoughts?
    Last edited by duke13; 04-19-2019 at 08:34 AM.
    2016 Reflection 303 rls
    Titan Disc Brakes
    Hensley hitch
    2002 GMC Duramax 3:73 rear, 2 wheel drive

  8. #18
    King Pin
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    At a minimum, you'll need to jack up that side of the trailer and remove BOTH wheels. If you leave a wheel on, the suspension will be under compression and you'll never get it apart. In fact, you could injure yourself if you try to disassemble it with the a tire still mounted and a spring under compression.

    Many of us have built cribbing out of 2x4's to assist with jacking the trailer up by the frame. Stack them high enough that your jacks and jack stands are extended a reasonable height. Here's a picture that was posted years ago by Jim (J&G Garage):



    Make certain that you examine the bushing when you remove the bolt. If it is worn, then you may as well replace all the bushings and wet bolts as long as you've gone that far.

    Jim

  9. #19
    Seasoned Camper
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    Thanks Jim, I was thinking that I might need to do that. do you jack both front and rear of trailer or can you leave it hooked to the tow vehicle? I was thinking it might be too much pressure on the hitch, Sounds like a big job getting the trailer jacked up that high..
    Last edited by duke13; 04-19-2019 at 02:49 PM.
    2016 Reflection 303 rls
    Titan Disc Brakes
    Hensley hitch
    2002 GMC Duramax 3:73 rear, 2 wheel drive

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