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  1. #11
    Commercial Member huntr70's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barney065 View Post
    No the 6.0 has not been bullet proofed. I had replaced the EGR cooler a couple years ago but the EGR valve needs replacing now. I thought about doing the EGR delete but decided against it and now kicking myself in the rear-end. Mine has never been chipped.

    Stopped at the CAT scale on the way home with the truck only and found out the front end weights - 2220kgs, rear weights - 1590kgs = 3810Kgs.... If the GVWR is 5170Kgs than would that leave me with 1360Kgs or 3046Lbs for cargo carrying capacity or hitch weight. Correct?
    Yes, that gives you a good idea of what you can put in the truck, which has to include people, hitch, firewood, etc.
    Steve- Inventory Manager at Tom Schaeffer's RV, Shoemakersville, PA www.tomschaeffers.com
    [email protected]
    2011 RAM 3500 SRW Outdoorsman Edition 4X4, 6.7 Cummins--TWEAKED!
    2021 Reflection 310RLS

  2. #12
    Site Sponsor
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntr70 View Post
    Yes, that gives you a good idea of what you can put in the truck, which has to include people, hitch, firewood, etc.
    Don't forget to add the pin weight.

    From these numbers you may need more truck. The newer trucks have higher capacity. Get the trailer hooked up and re-check. Some folks run a little over on the GVWR but do not exceed the axle weight ratings. Also be careful on the combined weight rating. If it is over 26K your state may have special licensing requirements

    Now as to the the 6.0 Mine blew but I never really worked it hard. Mostly daily driving. Its only got about 150K on it. If your going for long trips you may wish to get an engine monitor (not a tuner). You will be working that 6.0 to the max with that trailer. Your Ford service manager should be able to help and advise you on this.

    Hope this helps
    2018 Reflection 150 Series 220RK 5th wheel with 6K axle upgrade. B&W 25K OEM Companion, Steadyfast system, 2022 F350 SRW 6.7 King Ranch 8' bed, Trailer reverse lights, rear spare tire holder, storage tube, sumo springs, Victron MultiPlus 12/120/3000, and Solar

  3. #13
    Fireside Member moenoodle's Avatar
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    We tried to pull our 2019 310GK with a 2016 F350 6.7L SRW truck but after loading the trailer we exceeded the cargo weight of the truck. The sticker on the truck door shows 3580lbs, after adding a 390lb B&W hitch, people, fuel, tools and trailer we were right at 3580lbs. The rear axial was at 6750lbs, (7000lb rating) so it was just too close for comfort. We upgraded to a DRW, the piece of mind is priceless!!
    Brian and Susan
    2019 F-350 Dually
    2019 GD 310GK

  4. #14
    Left The Driveway
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    I was thinking about installing the Edge Insight CTS2 which will allow me to monitor all of the parameters of the truck. Anyone else use this type?

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/EDGE-CTS-2-I...lVewgz&vxp=mtr

  5. #15
    Rolling Along JColeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barney065 View Post
    I was thinking about installing the Edge Insight CTS2 which will allow me to monitor all of the parameters of the truck. Anyone else use this type?

    https://www.ebay.ca/itm/EDGE-CTS-2-I...lVewgz&vxp=mtr
    That's a lot of money for info that is available to systems that cost waaaaaay less.

    A decent OBDII diagnostic plug ($15-$79)and Torque Pro ($5) will give you everything that this device does and display it on your phone or tablet. You could buy a cheap dedicated tablet for ~$80 and still be hundreds better off.

    Torque Pro info: https://scanneranswers.com/torque-pro-obd2-app-review/

    This adapter will work: https://www.amazon.com/Kitbest-Bluet...%2C196&sr=8-15

    This one is better: https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluet...%2C196&sr=8-16
    Last edited by JColeman; 05-22-2019 at 11:54 AM.
    Jeff and Jen
    2016 F250 CC Lariat 4x4 6.7L, Firestone Airbags, Pullrite Superglide
    2017 Solitude 310GK, a little solar, a little lithium, disc brakes and a few suspension mods

    Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety. - Ben Franklin

  6. #16
    Seasoned Camper
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    As far as the 6.0 the most important number to watch is the delta between oil temp and coolant temp. It should be less than 15 degrees. A long grade can cause it to go to more than 15 degrees but it should recover quickly after reaching the summit. A delta that stays close to or over 15 degrees is a telltale that the oil cooler is clogging which is the beginning of the end for the 6.0.

    1. Oil cooler coolant passages become clogged (many believe it is from the SCAs dropping out of the Ford Gold coolant when it is worked hard, Ford originally set the coolant change interval at 100K but soon after engines began to fail they issued a service bulletin to change it at 50K with no explanation as to why)
    2. Once the oil cooler coolant passages are clogged the coolant does not flow to the EGR cooler effectively causing the EGR cooler to overheat and rupture allowing coolant to enter the cylinders.
    3. When enough coolant enters the cylinders, since a liquid does not compress, the pressure forces the heads to lift, stretching the head bolts and blowing out the head gaskets.

    The best thing you can do, IMHO, is GET RID OF THE FORD GOLD COOLANT. Ford only used it because this way they would have one line of coolant across all their engines. International (Navistar), who built the 6.0, did not use Ford Gold in it, they used extended life coolant (ELC) with no SCA'a to drop out and clog things up. It takes a full day and many gallons of distilled water along with a special detergent to thoroughly flush out all the Ford Gold and change to a good ELC like Rotella, or Fleetrite (which is from International). If you cannot do this soon at least keep swapping out the Ford Gold as often as you can, do not let it get old. If you switch to ELC you absolutely must remove every trace of the Ford Gold, the two do not play well together.

  7. #17
    Seasoned Camper
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    This is good info posted above. I've owned many 6.0s over the last 11 years. I love them, I daily drive one. Powerstroke.org is a great source to learn from, guys are great over there. Tell them j.mo sent you, you'll get a warm welcome.

    You have lots of learning ahead to have a reliable tow rig, so I'll leave some long winded information out. But another quick and easy upgrade that will benefit you hauling is the 7.3 mechanical fan clutch, and adapter from bulletproof diesel. It engages more actively to keep things cool, and loses the possibility of you losing the electronic fan clutch wires to the fan in the middle of no where.
    Or you can also modify your electronic fan to work on one of your upfitter switches so you can flick it on when you decide to pull a grade or sit in traffic vs it coming on at 215* by the computer.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper
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    Quote Originally Posted by the.jmo View Post
    I've owned many 6.0s over the last 11 years. I love them, I daily drive one.



    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    A bulletproofed 6.0 is one of the best engines on the road, and the 6.0 trucks are way more refined than the earlier "legendary" 7.3 trucks. I love the way they sound, the way they pull, and best of all no DEF and no regens!

  9. #19
    Long Hauler
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    Before we get to far please.

    Brian

  10. #20
    Site Sponsor
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    I have the same truck which was manufactured 2 months earlier. My yellow tire stickers says the weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 3,743. Actual pin weight for the 310gk (we are also looking at this combo) that I’ve seen from this forum go from 2,700 - 3,100. We aren’t going with a generator this time so estimate 2,900 which leaves 843 for hitch and people weight. Close but probably ok. The towing max GVWR is 15,400.

    I’ve been pulling a lighter 32’ 5th wheel and it’s been great. I haven’t bulletproof yet but I’ve only got 29,000 miles on our 350.

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