DIY: Replacing Axle Seals and Brakes.

[chris]

This thread will be for the continued discussion of Axle Seal and Brake replacement. This is a technical discussion, and not to discuss the manufacturers please
Thanks
Ct..

[Val and Denis]

Hi All,
New Momentum 350 owner. I have jumped in the deep end as I am a totally new Rv'er. I have been following this thread after I noticed that my trailer brakes were not working that well. I had them up to 9 with little braking results. I will go and remove a trailer wheel to either adjust the brakes and hopefully not find any grease. If I find grease, Chris you cautioned not to remove the drum? I do have my unit heading to the shop on Saturday so my dealer should be able to guide me I hope. I feel this thread has been great for a newby like me, getting all these years of experience guiding me down this exciting road! I would not of known to get the brakes adjusted after 3000 miles, if it were not for this thread. I may change to forward adjusting brakes as a 3000 mile interval seems a little silly.
Thanks again all!
Denis

2014 Ram 3500 Crewcab DRW 4x4
6.7 L Cummings 4.10 Aisin
2015 Grand Design Momentum 350

[smkunder]

Great idea, so is there a posting somewhere that tells how to do the brake adjustment, I too am new to this concept of having to adjust the brakes. In my past three trailers I have not had to do this. Is there something different here?

[notnsuv]

Correct National/ Federal Mogul P/N for seals is 442109. Car Quest manager glanced at the Lippert sheet Chuck sent out (while the counter guy had already spent 15min on the computer with the Lippert number trying to cross reference) and rattled off the number from memory. We confirmed ID & OD with a micrometer. The previously posted P/N 412920 mic'd a bit tight ID & OD. Might work but tight just the same. I have 4 in hand at $10 per whereas the 412920 are $27 per and an "oil seal" more than grease seal.

18 years experience is how the manager explained. There's no substitute.

Hope this helps the cause.

[AlanEdie]

Correct National/ Federal Mogul P/N for seals is 442109. Car Quest manager glanced at the Lippert sheet Chuck sent out (while the counter guy had already spent 15min on the computer with the Lippert number trying to cross reference) and rattled off the number from memory. We confirmed ID & OD with a micrometer. The previously posted P/N 412920 mic'd a bit tight ID & OD. Might work but tight just the same. I have 4 in hand at $10 per whereas the 412920 are $27 per and an "oil seal" more than grease seal.

18 years experience is how the manager explained. There's no substitute.

Hope this helps the cause.

I need a little clarification: The National 442109 looks like it is a single lip Nitrile seal. National's seal and bearing xref chart lists 412920 as an alternate seal for 442109. 412920 is a nitrile seal (maybe double lip) with a spring..

I am thinking I should still use 442109 single lip nitrile sealfor my LCI 5200 lb axle grease seal, but I'm not 100% sure.

[AlanEdie]

I need a little clarification: The National 442109 looks like it is a single lip Nitrile seal. National's seal and bearing xref chart lists 412920 as an alternate seal for 442109. 412920 is a nitrile seal (maybe double lip) with a spring..

I am thinking I should still use 442109 single lip nitrile sealfor my LCI 5200 lb axle grease seal, but I'm not 100% sure.

OK....I think I found the answer..........The correct seal to use is the National/Timken?car Quest # 412920 Double Lip Nitrile seal with the spring built in...... More expensive, but it is the needed double lip....

OR go back and use the OEM Lippert cheap Chinese seal #122088 and take you chances on it leaking grease...

[Broda2675]

Ok folks, Been doing a lot of reading, maybe i just missed it. I have a 2016 Reflection 303RLS. Just got back from a 450 mile trip; now have about 700 miles total on the unit. Notice grease on the rims, same as some of the pics i have seen for leaking seals, on three of my wheels. Dealer is a long trip so i think i will do the work myself. Does anyone know the part numbers for the seals for the 303RLS? Can i buy a substitute from Advanced Auto or should i use eTrailer. Grease is simple enough as long as it is a high temp axle grease - i think.

[TucsonJim]

Ok folks, Been doing a lot of reading, maybe i just missed it. I have a 2016 Reflection 303RLS. Just got back from a 450 mile trip; now have about 700 miles total on the unit. Notice grease on the rims, same as some of the pics i have seen for leaking seals, on three of my wheels. Dealer is a long trip so i think i will do the work myself. Does anyone know the part numbers for the seals for the 303RLS? Can i buy a substitute from Advanced Auto or should i use eTrailer. Grease is simple enough as long as it is a high temp axle grease - i think.

You can check the part number in your owner's documentation. Look for the book called "Towable RV Master Manual" by Lippert Components. It will give you a part number break down based on your axle weight. I believe your 303 has a 6,000 pound axle, and the Lippert part number is 122088. The direct replacement e-trailer seal is part number 10-36. This is the same seal I've been using in my 7,000 pound axle on my 337. I recently pulled the hubs and the e-trailer seal was in great shape after about 8,000 miles. It is a double lipped seal and has good reviews. Here is a link to the 10-36 seal from e-trailer.

https://www.etrailer.com/Seals-for-T.../RG06-070.html

You can't beat the price at $3.90 a pair.

Jim

[AlanEdie]

Ok folks, Been doing a lot of reading, maybe i just missed it. I have a 2016 Reflection 303RLS. Just got back from a 450 mile trip; now have about 700 miles total on the unit. Notice grease on the rims, same as some of the pics i have seen for leaking seals, on three of my wheels. Dealer is a long trip so i think i will do the work myself. Does anyone know the part numbers for the seals for the 303RLS? Can i buy a substitute from Advanced Auto or should i use eTrailer. Grease is simple enough as long as it is a high temp axle grease - i think.

Phone and/or email George J at etrailer ......he can get you the right seal for your GD RV..
I ordered seals 10-36 and cotter pins and a spare set of bearings for my 2015 GD Reflection 313 TT
phone and/or emal George J at (800) 298-8924 or by email at [email protected]
Thanks,
George J
cs@etrailer.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Just replaced all all the backing plates/Seals on all 4 wheels, 3 of them because the brakes were saturated with grease on my 2015 Reflection 303RLS. Two of the seals were ripped and could have only happened at initial assembly. There was no wear in the drums at all by the brake shoes or the magnet so these brakes were never working except for 1. New drum/bearing/seal will be in today for the one that was working because it is out of round probably due to being over heated $60. New to 5th wheels and I thought the braking felt weak but I was thinking is just may have been because of all the weight... Now I know! Towed this back from Florida to California, I guess I'm lucky I am still in one piece. I worked as a shop foreman and Engineer for a trailer manufacture for a few years and never saw a warranty issue on the 100's of axles we used (Dexter axles and not EZ-Lube style) so I never imagined this seal leaking issue until reading on this forum. I was going to only check the bearings and adjust the brakes, no such luck!

* Replaced the backing plates with auto forward adjusting style, only $38 each . Lifting one one side of trailer by frame to adjust a brake cost me more than that in time.
* Initially cleaned done with 325 thinner (cleaning solvent) rinse with water blow dry. Cleaned with Denatured alcohol in brake drums until no residue or color on paper towels, then Berryman Brake Cleaner as final cleaning step to make sure no residue is left over.
* Hand packed all the bearings with Lippert spec. recommended grease. Will never use EZ-Lube would be just asking for trouble.
* Replaced seals Lippert 122088. Wiped a little grease on seal contact points before reassembly. Will see if these hold up.

My Opinions: (probably most people know this stuff but this is for the people who may not, or provide food for thought)

EZ-Lube: Using the EZ-Lube fills the entire hub cavity with grease except the area where the hub cap is and this is air. As the unit rolls down the road heat is created causing expansion of the air and grease. The hub is sealed and builds up internal pressure. As the wheel rotates the pressure can slowly push grease past the seal. See next comment....

Hub Cap Rubber Insert (for access to EZ-Lube Zerk Fitting): When reinstalling the hub cap I noticed the rubber insert push outward from the internal air pressure of the hub. Push on it and it pushes outward again from the pressure. Left it overnight and the pressure was still there, this verified that the hub was airtight. These rubber caps typically are flush and not pushed out. My solution to this was to use an awl or needle to poke a SMALL hole in the center of the rubber inserted from the inside out. The small hole will close up keeping contaminates out but if pressure builds up the hole will allow it to escape. If any grease comes out I would rather have it come out here than out the seal. The only potential negative I see to this small hole is potential moisture getting in, but the rubber self closes. The other reason I feel OK with this solution is that if you ever looked at your truck axle it has a breather and engines are not air tight etc. Use at your own educated risk.