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  1. #21
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncitro View Post
    I have rewired a few trailers (snowmobile trailers and salt make for a wiring mess) and have found this to make it a ton easier:

    Attachment 11115
    https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Hea...ler+wiring+box
    At that price, I am going to add one of these to my "spare parts bin". Thanks ncitro!

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
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  2. #22
    Seasoned Camper ncitro's Avatar
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    No problem. I've used them twice and found it way easier than cramming a bunch of wire nuts into an electrical box.
    2018 Reflection 28BH
    2019 F350 Platinum 6.7L LB 4x4

  3. #23
    Seasoned Camper Airrace's Avatar
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    And the price is right. Checked on a new pigtail and the store wanted $75!! I had the disconnect light come on at 60 mph and almost drove off the road. Happened twice, no longer have that trailer. On thing to watch for in the 2015-16 super duty is the wire connector above the parking brake. The pedal slamming when released seems to jar a connection there and you have a "black cockpit" happen. No speedo, no tach, no turn signals and if to turn the truck off it will not start. The dealers know about it and the fix is a zip tie. Not sure if there is any connection between the two.
    Lyle & Judy and Annie the Westie
    Retired (Government employee/USMC/USAFR, Ret) & Retired (insurance industry)
    2018 F-350 CC LB DRW 4X4 6.7 (3.55)(Reese 18k "puck system")
    2018 Solitude 310GK (5500 Onan Genset)
    2020 F-150 SCSB XLT 2.7L 10 speed

  4. #24
    Rolling Along jim1521's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TucsonJim View Post
    Sorry...


    Or this beauty going to chassis ground:


    Jim
    Well, I looked briefly underneath and saw wire nuts so I went ahead and ordered the MICTUNING junction box referred to above. Will probably install it this weekend. Thanks all for the tip.
    2016 Grand Design Reflection 313RLTS
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  5. #25
    Rolling Along jim1521's Avatar
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    I got the new wiring harness, and am going to replace the old with the new.

    I was reading one of the reviews on Amazon about a guy whose trailer (not GDRV) apparently didn't follow the color codes. He wired RED-RED, BLUE-BLUE, BROWN-BROWN, GREEN-GREEN, etc. but kept blowing fuses. It turns out whoever did the original wiring didn't bother to do that, so he had to trace each wire one at a time to make sure the got them all to the proper pins on the plug. For those of you who have already done this on your GDRV: Did you run across this problem (wiring colors not being correct)? Or were they all properly color-coded?

    I'm going to take photos of the current wiring so that I have something to reference to as I'm doing it.
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  6. #26
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Jim - when you cut away the old harness, cut a little bit on the trailer side. Then, when you remove the old umbilical cable you will have a little bit of what each wire was connected to as a reference. Pictures are always good too . Wire colors from the old to the new umbilical cables should be identical . . . but worth double checking with an ohm meter.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
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  7. #27
    Rolling Along jim1521's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    Jim - when you cut away the old harness, cut a little bit on the trailer side. Then, when you remove the old umbilical cable you will have a little bit of what each wire was connected to as a reference. Pictures are always good too . Wire colors from the old to the new umbilical cables should be identical . . . but worth double checking with an ohm meter.

    Rob
    Great idea Rob. Thanks. is there much slack on the trailer side of the cabling interface, or is it pretty tight?

    I already tested the pins-to-posts (inside the junction box) with my ohm meter, so I know I've got a good pinout from the plug to the junction box.
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  8. #28
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim1521 View Post
    Is there much slack on the trailer side of the cabling interface, or is it pretty tight?
    Every GDRV build is different. Most have lots of slack in the wiring because this makes it easy for them to build . . . but some end up built with very tight connections. Best to check before you cut, but cutting close to a crimp connector will still leave enough wire to identify the color.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
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  9. #29
    King Pin
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    Okay, the saga continues. Last week, I was returning from a short outing and got the trailer disconnect error again. I have noticed that it seems to occur when I apply the brakes on the TV. So I ordered the Mictuning connector reference above and finished installing it today. It took a couple of hours to clean up the wiring and get it installed. And for those who asked earlier. The wiring on the GD unit matches the color code that Mictuning uses. Here's a picture of the finished product:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Once I had it installed, I connected the tow vehicle and ran a test to make sure all connections were good. Everything worked perfectly. Then, I stepped on the brake and got the damn "trailer disconnected" warning again. Arghhhh! It only happened once and I couldn't get it to repeat. Well, at least I've eliminated one source of the error with the new umbilical. Tomorrow, I'm going to clean up the chassis ground that I pointed out in an earlier response to this thread. Then, I suppose it's time to remove the tires and drums and do a thorough inspection of the brakes and wiring.

    Unless any of you have any additional ideas, I'll keep poking away at it until I get it resolved.

    Jim
    Last edited by TucsonJim; 04-17-2018 at 05:05 PM.

  10. #30
    Long Hauler offtohavasu's Avatar
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    Do you have any good friends who'd let you borrow their truck for a few runs to see if it does it on their vehicle too?
    Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado Duramax LBZ, CCLB
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