Kan_Leak Access

[TucsonJim]

Rob,
I can't seem to be able to open up your pics to view your mods. I'm getting a pop up that says...
sluggo68, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.

Sluggo - In order to open and post pics, you have to be a site sponsor. It's pretty inexpensive, and helps Chris defray the costs of running the site. This site is not hosted by Grand Design, but by a private party.

Jim

[sluggo68]

Jim,
thank you for your reply. how do I become a site sponsor?

Tony

[TucsonJim]

Jim,
thank you for your reply. how do I become a site sponsor?

Tony

I'm sorry, I should have given you the link with my post. Here you go.

http://www.mygrandrv.com/forum/payments.php

Jim

[minnow101]

I just finished up installing a plexiglass slider window in my basement 27RL. Thanks Rob for the inspiration. I also installed a water leak detection alarm. And since I had to replace the KantLeak panel as mine developed a leak in the plastic tee fitting that connects the two valves. Emailed GD and and new panel was sent(thanks GD!!). I think the dripping leak was due to a lack of sealant on the threads as I took it apart after installing the new panel. It was apparent that there was just a touch of thread sealant and was not sufficient. I also took the time to replumb the valves using Shark Bite fittings so I can have a quick disconnect in case the issue arises again. Anyone doing this really needs to diagram and take pictures of where these hoses go. You'll never remember if you just take everything apart. I'm no plumber by any means so I'm at a loss why pipe comes out of a bottom fixture and immediately plumbs back into a three way connector up above it. Don't know why these need to be as complicated as they are.

[Dentil]

My version of the Kan_Leak access panel . . .

I went with a plexiglas side slider window mounted inside the wall so it can be opened without disturbing much else in the storage area. Also, a finger hole rather than a knob that would catch on stuff. I also wired in a light.


Rob

I was inspired by your photo and post and now I also have a Plexiglas sliding panel to keep an eye on the Kan=leak. I removed all my camping gear and took off the panel to inspect and found the dreaded drip. This will make inspections much easier from now on. Thanks for all your knowledge and practical posts on this forum.
Dennis

[Cate&Rob]

@ Dentil,
Thanks for the kind comments. Helping each other like this is what this forum is all about . . . different than most forums.

@minnow101
Shark bite connectors are GREAT ! Not cheap, but way better than Pex clamps or hose clamps. I have used these for difficult connections on my boat and they always work. I have an assortment on hand for when I have to replace my Kan_leak valves.

Rob

[gestern1]

During our Alaska break-in trip I was having issues with the Kantleak valve, kind of like a lot of other folks. I told my dealer and he said he replaced it under warranty. When I picked up my 27RL from the dealer it had the same valve as when I took it in. (For some reason my dealer seems to stretch the truth when it comes to things like this.
So, using 2825Matheny's idea I completely took out the Kantleak, made a manifold, installed a pressure tank and relocated the 'fish cleaning station' (outside shower). In all of the RV's I have ever had I could never figure out why the outside shower is on the left side of the unit. If we are at the beach or in an area where we need to rinse off before entering the "home", it makes more since to have the shower on the right side next to the door.
In the first thumbnail is the manifold, all parts from the local hardware store. Second one is the valve and shower removed. Third is the finished, installed valve assembly. Fourth thumbnail is the back side with new valve and pressure tank. I reduced the pressure in the tank to 20psi and it works real good by not allowing the water pump to short cycle when flushing the toilet or such. The last thumbnail is the new location of the "fish cleaning station". All of the photos were while 'work-in-progress' so things aren't cleaned up. I had to do all of this in 20 to 35 degree weather so some of the photos were "hurry-up-and-snap-the-dang-thing"
I am not as computer literate as some folks (special thanks to Jamey Matheny for his input and diagrams) so there is a lot of steps not shown..
Anyway, I had fun doing this project and I don't have to worry about the OEM valve anymore.

[dirtclod]

Rob, great idea! Our access panel is made out of plexiglass also that is held in place with window screen snaps for a quick removal of the plexiglass, we also put 8-2in holes in our panel to allow more airflow from heated basement into kant leak valve and hot water tank area, this has really increased the amount of cold weather we can induce without freeze ups.

[Jannnan]

Very nice workmanship!

[campinfool]

Your fix is very impressive, nice job.

I think the showers are all on the opposite side of the entry door to keep from making a soupy area where you would enter the camper.

Jim