Re-pack bearings necessary?

**Conner58** · 03-21-2024, 10:12 AM

Dexter E-Z Lube System - YouTube https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nzKZ7hjExtk

**Nuffsaid** · 03-21-2024, 10:38 AM

Here is my take, back in the day when 4x4 trucks had servicable front wheel bearings, the time length was about 50k miles. What makes trailers so special? I removed all of my brake drums the week I bought my Solitude back in 2017, why, because the brakes didn't work from the minute I picked it up at the dealership and I found out real quick trying to get out of Denver! At the time there were all kinds of people having problems with grease on there brakes from the factory. When I got home I contacted Grand Design Customer service and told them of my concern. I told them that I own my a tire shop repair facility and asked if I could bill them for the work. They gave me the green light to pull all 4 hubs. I scratched my head after I pulled the first two and found that they were dry, but then I was rewarded when I pulled the other two and the brakes were covered with grease. Grand design only authorized two hours of labor to R&R the brakes for all 4. That was a joke! It took at least 30 minutes each to get all of the grease out of the drubs let alone changing the backing plates and connecting wires. I replaced all of the seals, but to be perfectly honest the seals were fine. My guess is whoever assembled the axles just filled up the grease fitting with grease without spinning the hub and pushed grease past the seal.
My process for greasing my axles is as follows. Get the tires off the ground and spin them, make sure there is no roughness. Check for play and adjust the bearing nut if needed. I upgraded to disc brakes, so there should be zero play in a disc brake hub. Then I add grease to the hub through the zerk fitting while continually turning the hub until I get grease coming out the outer bearing. Now the hub is totally full of grease and should be good to go for a long time and next time a few pumps of grease will be adequate. This works great for boat trailers that get submerged in water and I haven't lost a bearing in a long time. I use red extreme pressure grease with a high drop point and high water resistance. Right now I am using Lucas Red and Tacky. If I feel play in a wheel bearing that was set up properly, I will probably pull it and examine the bearings and check for bearing wear. When traveling I usually check the temp of my tires and hubs with my hands to make sure nothing is running HOT. I used to not fill the grease cavity on hubs, but since I work on lots of 4x4's that usually end up in deep water during water crossings it has bit me before. The more grease in the cavity, the better in my opinion because then water can't get in. On a trailer axle the grease cap is empty, so there is room for expansion if needed.

**txarsoncop** · 03-21-2024, 01:30 PM

Originally Posted by Nuffsaid

Then I add grease to the hub through the zerk fitting while continually turning the hub until I get grease coming out the outer bearing. Now the hub is totally full of grease and should be good to go for a long time and next time a few pumps of grease will be adequate. This works great for boat trailers that get submerged in water and I haven't lost a bearing in a long time. If I feel play in a wheel bearing that was set up properly, I will probably pull it and examine the bearings and check for bearing wear. I used to not fill the grease cavity on hubs, but since I work on lots of 4x4's that usually end up in deep water during water crossings it has bit me before. The more grease in the cavity, the better in my opinion because then water can't get in. On a trailer axle the grease cap is empty, so there is room for expansion if needed.

Last year I had to change several leaking axle seals on our M35A2 deuce-and-a-half that we use for wildland firefighting and to complete that requires removing the hub & wheel. I referenced the TM for the truck to make sure I serviced it properly and the military specifies filling the hub space between the bearings with grease. I have been doing my own vehicle maintenance for 40 years and have cleaned and re-packed many a bearing but had never been taught to fill the hub, but as @Nuffsaid pointed out, packing the hub better protects the bearings from water, something the military is concerned about.

Did I pack my 261BH's hubs full when I? No. I don't expect to be trailering and fording streams. Obviously, the military has a different use case and specifies appropriately.

Dexter agrees with the military, their service manual states "The EZ-lube feature is designed to allow immersion in water. Axles not equipped with EZ-lube are not designed for immersion and should be repacked after each immersion."

It also directs you to pack the bearings in axles not designed for immersion the traditional 'palm of the hand technique' and to apply a light coat of grease to the bearing race and reinstall, that's it, every year or 12,000 miles.

**Scott'n'Wendy** · 03-21-2024, 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood

While I agree that using the external grease zerk is not a good idea, but I've never read anything about the space being "designed" to stay empty, or is that your own interpretation? Dead air makes a pretty good insulator, so I'm not too sure about that.

You will find in any service manual from when they had these kind of bearing setups in cars, that the void between the bearings was meant to be mostly air with a coating of grease on the surface. About 1/8" thick. If you fill it with grease and heat it up..it will ooze out somewhere.

**Hoopy Frood** · 03-21-2024, 03:15 PM

Originally Posted by Scott'n'Wendy

You will find in any service manual from when they had these kind of bearing setups in cars, that the void between the bearings was meant to be mostly air with a coating of grease on the surface. About 1/8" thick. If you fill it with grease and heat it up..it will ooze out somewhere.

I agree with that, but the brake setup that you're talking about have no external vent like the EZ-Lube does. And I've only had a couple apart, and I honestly don't remember any connection of the bearing area that would allow you to pump in grease like the EZ-Lube system. But, like I said, I've only done a couple. But we all agree that the EZ-Lube is an unnecessary addition to the wheel bearings.

**Scott'n'Wendy** · 03-21-2024, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood

I agree with that, but the brake setup that you're talking about have no external vent like the EZ-Lube does.

The only 'vent' I'm aware of is through the bearings...like cars of old. Care to elaborate for me? Not saying you are wrong, just not sure what you mean.

**Hoopy Frood** · 03-21-2024, 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by Scott'n'Wendy

The only 'vent' I'm aware of is through the bearings...like cars of old. Care to elaborate for me? Not saying you are wrong, just not sure what you mean.

The extra grease is free to exit the wheel bearing area, and has the rubber/plastic cover to allow for expansion on the EZ-Lube system. I'm not aware of any normal wheel bearings with this type of setup. They usually have a stout cap that prevents dirt getting to the grease, and preventing grease from escaping. But like I said, I've worked on very, very few car/truck wheel bearings that needed repacking.

**Nuffsaid** · 03-21-2024, 04:55 PM

My favorite type of bearing lubrication is oil bath. I have had rear axle bearings on my H.D. pickups last well past 300k, just keep the oil level up! Now on the down side, when a seal decides to leak and if you have drum brakes, major pain in the rear. With late model disc brakes the only thing that will get soaked is the E brake.

**Hoopy Frood** · 03-21-2024, 05:35 PM

I think oil bath bearings are excellent for bearings that rotate regularly. Considering how long trailers can sit between travels, I'd be concerned with corrosion possibly developing on the exposed bearings not immersed in oil. No data to back it up, but it would be something I'd consider.

**Nuffsaid** · 03-21-2024, 07:16 PM

Originally Posted by Hoopy Frood

I think oil bath bearings are excellent for bearings that rotate regularly. Considering how long trailers can sit between travels, I'd be concerned with corrosion possibly developing on the exposed bearings not immersed in oil. No data to back it up, but it would be something I'd consider.

Good point! I have seen ring gears in differentials that had rust on half of the gear from just what you are refering to. It would have a lot to do with the humidity in the area you live in, I am in the desert and it is very dry typically.