Hub play?

[steve gravelle]

Great LCI video! Text tells you to jack the frame, not the axle. Jack in video is in the center of the axle. The procedure to tight adjust the spindle nut I agree with, also loosen nut to locate cotter pin, I think Rick would also. But now I have finally found the key to all our seal leakage issues! The tech states that the bearing rollers need oil on them. Silly us- we were told that GREASE is needed. Trying to be sarcastically humorous here.

[JCR GD]

Steve, good find! Stupid oil

[steve gravelle]

Maybe for those of us who drive fast, racing oil! Royal Purple?

[RickTulsa]

The torque is related to the size of the spindle and the thread count. (The correct answer). My rule of thumb is for most 120-140 ft lbs.

The only time I use a light machine oil is I clean the bearings with warm soapy water after using a grease cutting liquid. Once air dried (never spinning the bearing), I then apply a light coat of oil. Then I hand pack the bearing with a long fiber wheel bearing grease. A light swipe of the bearing race with grease, not heavy. Then assemble the hub, seal and slip the hub on the spindle. Push the outer bearing on the spindle into the hub, install the washer, then the nut.

I have to add this little bit of opinion, I never pack the inside of the hub with grease, even boat trailers. Doing so in my opinion doesn't due anything but waste grease and make it a mess for the next guy. As I have said I have read had an issue with bearings doing it this way.

PS: I'm not too sure but I would think Lippert would publish the torque spec in the manual.

[steve gravelle]

Rick, do you think the Lippert tech is approaching that range with the slip joint pliers? We are not torquing wheel nuts on a one ton truck. I respect you a lot because of your great knowledge and very articulate language, but I question this number, sir. I will do some research and retract my statement if I am wrong!

[Cate&Rob]

120 - 140 ft lbs does sound high . . . but remember that the intent of this step is to make sure that all races are fully seated. This is not the "running" adjustment.

WRT grease . . . I firmly believe that the grease seal failures are because the seal runs dry against the spindle when new. I supplied my research on this to Lippert (and posted it on this forum). Never heard back from LCI. They assemble dry and inject the grease after. The grease won't make it past the first lip of the double lip seal to lubricate the seal/spindle interface. In the first few miles, the seal is burned and won't retain the lightweight injected grease that LCI uses.

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

What I posted quite a while ago on my theory about the grease seal failures . . .

Rob

[JCR GD]

I found a lippert PDF states 50 ft lbs torque on castle nut to seat.




Page 8

[zac808]

120 - 140 ft lbs does sound high . . . but remember that the intent of this step is to make sure that all races are fully seated. This is not the "running" adjustment.

WRT grease . . . I firmly believe that the grease seal failures are because the seal runs dry against the spindle when new. I supplied my research on this to Lippert (and posted it on this forum). Never heard back from LCI. They assemble dry and inject the grease after. The grease won't make it past the first lip of the double lip seal to lubricate the seal/spindle interface. In the first few miles, the seal is burned and won't retain the lightweight injected grease that LCI uses.

Rob

Makes sense. I lightly greased the seal before installing it.

Cent frum my sell phone so pleeze excuse my spelling and grahmar.

[Cate&Rob]

Makes sense. I lightly greased the seal before installing it.

I do a lot of marine engine and outdrive rebuilding. Standard practice is to liberally coat the oil seals (crank shaft/prop shaft/etc) and fill the space between the two lip seals with grease . . . to make sure these seals are well lubricated at start-up. Makes sense that this would also apply to spindle seals.

Rob