Hub play?

[RickTulsa]

I found a lippert PDF states 50 ft lbs torque on castle nut to seat.


Attachment 4359

Page 8

There is the spec. 50 ft lbs. I would go with that. My only push back I have is that they state packing the bearings with a machine, but that by hand is a viable option. I guess I'm old school and I was taught to pack bearings by hand. When I used to run a shop and help out my techs used to make fun of me as most of them had bought bearing packers. Yes they were faster, but I was more comfortable watching the grease flow into the cage and rollers.

Not sure if the school I went to is as well known as it used to be (60's) but it was Dunwoody in Mpls. We had students from all over the US and overseas attend due to their reputation. Not sure how I got in there but passed the admission test. (funny what a $20 bill and a 6 pack used to buy you . . . KIDDING)

[zac808]

Thanks for all the info folks.

Anyone know what size the spindle nut is?

Cent frum my sell phone so pleeze excuse my spelling and grahmar.

[zac808]

@RickTulsa I have been packing aircraft bearings by hand for 16 years. I recently picked up a bearing packer for personal use. You can still watch the grease flow through the cage but faster and cleaner.
Lisle 34550 Handy Packer Bearing Packer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYDYO..._AgzjxbQ1BDX2D


Cent frum my sell phone so pleeze excuse my spelling and grahmar.

[AlanEdie]

120 - 140 ft lbs does sound high . . . but remember that the intent of this step is to make sure that all races are fully seated. This is not the "running" adjustment.

WRT grease . . . I firmly believe that the grease seal failures are because the seal runs dry against the spindle when new. I supplied my research on this to Lippert (and posted it on this forum). Never heard back from LCI. They assemble dry and inject the grease after. The grease won't make it past the first lip of the double lip seal to lubricate the seal/spindle interface. In the first few miles, the seal is burned and won't retain the lightweight injected grease that LCI uses.

Rob

Rob, I read somewhere about repacking bearings with the double lip seals. In regard to the double lip seals, it said to put a lite layer of grease between the 2 lips of the double lip seal and a lite coating of grease on the seal riding metal surface before placing the hub on the spindle. This is what I did when I repacked my bearing last week (1800 miles on my 2015 GD Reflection 313). note: I found one hub that the seal was leaking badly, one seal that was leaking a little, and two seals that were not leaking.......glad I pulled the hubs and took a look as I think I dodged a bullet!!

[Webmeister]

I just discovered at least one wheel with quite a bit of play in it. Should have doen maintenance before I left (my bad) - We have had rig for 2 years - any idea how soon the bearings should have been tightened/packed ? I have not kept track of mileage as I should have...
Now we are at Grand Canyon Trailer park and have to drive back o Williams, AZ to get repacked...any suggestions here would be helpful also (TJ's or Sandoval's) ???

[JCR GD]

I just discovered at least one wheel with quite a bit of play in it. Should have doen maintenance before I left (my bad) - We have had rig for 2 years - any idea how soon the bearings should have been tightened/packed ? I have not kept track of mileage as I should have...
Now we are at Grand Canyon Trailer park and have to drive back o Williams, AZ to get repacked...any suggestions here would be helpful also (TJ's or Sandoval's) ???

It should not loosen unless there is damage occurring. So either it has always been loose or something is falling apart. Check castle nut for cotter pin and look for any damage. If things look good, snug castle nut, replace cotter pin and take to repack. (or do it yourself)

[Cate&Rob]

I just discovered at least one wheel with quite a bit of play in it. Should have doen maintenance before I left (my bad) - We have had rig for 2 years - any idea how soon the bearings should have been tightened/packed ? I have not kept track of mileage as I should have...
Now we are at Grand Canyon Trailer park and have to drive back o Williams, AZ to get repacked...any suggestions here would be helpful also (TJ's or Sandoval's) ???

The LCI (I don't know about Dexter) service manual recommendation is to have the hubs pulled, the brakes inspected, the wheel bearings cleaned, inspected and re-greased (repacked) and the rear seal replaced, every year. To be honest, I doubt that many do this . . . but that is the manufacturer's spec.

There is nothing that would wear normally in a bearing system enough to require that the castle nut be tightened to eliminate play. If the bearings had recently been replaced, it is possible that this could occur because the bearing race was not seated properly when it was replaced. Otherwise, I would think that having this hub removed and the bearings inspected for the cause of the increased play . . . should be done soon.

Rob

[carnolddsm]

I just discovered at least one wheel with quite a bit of play in it. Should have doen maintenance before I left (my bad) - We have had rig for 2 years - any idea how soon the bearings should have been tightened/packed ? I have not kept track of mileage as I should have...
Now we are at Grand Canyon Trailer park and have to drive back o Williams, AZ to get repacked...any suggestions here would be helpful also (TJ's or Sandoval's) ???

Was the extra play discovered while repacking? How do the bearings look? My concern would be having a bearing fail while towing down to Williams.

If you need anything let me know, we are in Tusayan until Saturday. I’ve got seals and everything to repack. Don’t have any bearings though.

[Webmeister]

Was the extra play discovered while repacking? How do the bearings look? My concern would be having a bearing fail while towing down to Williams.

If you need anything let me know, we are in Tusayan until Saturday. I’ve got seals and everything to repack. Don’t have any bearings though.

Oh thank you very much Rob & Colan! While leveling at GC one tire came off the ground and when I touched it I felt the wobble (very noticeable). At the Grand Canyon Auto Service they don't do any work like that...just minor. However, there was a road service person there...Gary...that was able to lend me a 6 point 3/4 inch socket to get the lug nuts off...all I had was a 12 point. I was able to remove the brake hub, kind of repack the inner bearing by reaching in with a finger and repack the front by hand. I did not take the seal out.

What I discovered is that from the factory that the 2 rear wheels were at least one castle nut notch away from tight. The others not sure about. Anyway I ended up with a very small amount of noticeable play.
I did find a 3/4 inch 6 point spark plug socket at Walmart and will try to make sure the wheel lugs have not loosened since their removal...bummer I do not have a torque wrench so it is a guess ( just real tight).

[Webmeister]

It should not loosen unless there is damage occurring. So either it has always been loose or something is falling apart. Check castle nut for cotter pin and look for any damage. If things look good, snug castle nut, replace cotter pin and take to repack. (or do it yourself)

Thanks Jim, I did discover that mostly from the factory the Castle was not tight...see my other posts...
Here in Alamosa now so think we will make it now...just got to recheck wheel lugs now after first removal.