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  1. #11
    Long Hauler offtohavasu's Avatar
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    teeofliberty, you may want to reconsidering running the full 50 AMPS through the inverter. The inverter is only rated at 30 amps pass through voltage, so if you're at full load drawing through the inverter, you may damage the inverter.
    Curtis, Christine, Cole, and Charlotte

    2007 Chevrolet Silverado Duramax LBZ, CCLB
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  2. #12
    Seasoned Camper treeofliberty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by offtohavasu View Post
    teeofliberty, you may want to reconsidering running the full 50 AMPS through the inverter. The inverter is only rated at 30 amps pass through voltage, so if you're at full load drawing through the inverter, you may damage the inverter.
    The wiring diagram shows connections for dual hot in and dual hot out. I also double checked my wiring intentions with Magnum Energy tech support before doing it, and they OK'ed it.

    While this is not a solid backup reason, I will say that we only have one air conditioner, so I really don't have a means to draw 50 amps anyway.

    Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
    2017 Reflection 29RS, towed by 2013 F-350 Diesel King Ranch, Crew Cab, short Bed, with Andersen Ultimate 2 Hitch
    540w Solar, 4x6 Trojan T105's, MS2812 Magnum Energy inverter, Bogart Engineering TM-2030-RV and SC-2030
    WeBoost 4G-M cell booster, DirecTV portable

  3. #13
    Seasoned Camper treeofliberty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Namlehse View Post
    You did exactly what I'm wanting to. My plan is to start out with a generator for bringing the batteries back to charge, then going to solar when I feel brave enough to start putting holes into the roof.

    The hardest price to swallow is the inverter, I've been trying to find an electric supply that wouldn't be as costly.

    Did you just split the 50 amp in place and splice into that? I think that would have been the way I would have went for simplicity.
    The 50 amp plug for shore power turned into a single 6/3 wiring run to the two fuses in the fuse box. I pulled that out of the fuse box, spliced (in a junction box) and continued that run into the battery compartment and into the input ports in the inverter (which had taps for ground, hot 1, hot 2, and neutral. I then ran a 6/3 line from the output side of the inverter, back into the fuse box, connecting it the same way the stock wiring from the 50 amp shore power cable.

    Much to my joy and surprise, it all worked as planned. The hardest part was working with that 6/3 wiring, which was as stiff as copper pipe.

    Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
    2017 Reflection 29RS, towed by 2013 F-350 Diesel King Ranch, Crew Cab, short Bed, with Andersen Ultimate 2 Hitch
    540w Solar, 4x6 Trojan T105's, MS2812 Magnum Energy inverter, Bogart Engineering TM-2030-RV and SC-2030
    WeBoost 4G-M cell booster, DirecTV portable

  4. #14
    Seasoned Camper Dave27's Avatar
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    I plan to do the same thing on our 27RL. How did you decide where to drill the hole in the bulkhead? Did you drill through both walls into the battery compartment? Did you attached the inverter directly to the battery compartment wall? I assume you need to be careful not to drive screws all the way through the wall.

    thank you for sharing your experience.

    Dave
    2016 Reflection 27RL
    2015 Silverado 2500HD 6L
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  5. #15
    Seasoned Camper treeofliberty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave27 View Post
    I plan to do the same thing on our 27RL. How did you decide where to drill the hole in the bulkhead? Did you drill through both walls into the battery compartment? Did you attached the inverter directly to the battery compartment wall? I assume you need to be careful not to drive screws all the way through the wall.

    thank you for sharing your experience.

    Dave
    Dave, I drilled through the bulkhead wall between the storage compartment ("basement") and the battery compartment. The holes are 1 1/4 inch, which is what I needed for the flexible conduit. I ran the conduit along the aluminum beam and through a gap in the flexible wall on the other side of the storage compartment, avoiding the need to drill holes on that side. I picked that location to minimize the amount of "invasion" by the conduit into the storage space.

    I did mount the inverter directly to the bulkhead wall, which is particle board underneath the covering. The stock screws that came with the inverter didn't penetrate through to the other side, and the inverter seems rock solid. I was actually planning to mount the inverter a few inches closer to the batteries, but decided on a placement that maximized air space around the unit, to keep it cool. So far, I've not seen any heating issues, even though it hit 90 on our first outing (at 3800 feet). We won't usually be camping in that heat, and will be going much higher now that things are warming up in Arizona.

    You won't need to worry about screws going through the walls, but do be careful about wires and cables. I came real close to a wire with the hole-cutting bit.

    Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
    2017 Reflection 29RS, towed by 2013 F-350 Diesel King Ranch, Crew Cab, short Bed, with Andersen Ultimate 2 Hitch
    540w Solar, 4x6 Trojan T105's, MS2812 Magnum Energy inverter, Bogart Engineering TM-2030-RV and SC-2030
    WeBoost 4G-M cell booster, DirecTV portable

  6. #16
    Left The Driveway
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    I am just getting ready to make a full Solar System installation myself and one of the really Big surprises I found is the operating temperature ofg the Magnum Inverter. My system will have the 3000W pure sine wave #MSH3012M unit and the installation instruction warns you to install the unit on a non-combustible surface as it can heat up to 194 degrees Fahrenheit !! Your picture looks like it is mounted on plywood. I will be building a metal/free-standing frame for mine.

  7. #17
    ThruHauler
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    Hi all, I'm having the MSH3012M installed as well. But I'm not clear on the implications of installing a 30 amp device into a 50 amp system, especially since, if I've understood correctly, 50 amp service is 2 x 50amp/120v legs? Does the magnum sit on one leg limiting it to 30 amps?

    Thanks!

  8. #18
    Seasoned Camper treeofliberty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThruHauler View Post
    Hi all, I'm having the MSH3012M installed as well. But I'm not clear on the implications of installing a 30 amp device into a 50 amp system, especially since, if I've understood correctly, 50 amp service is 2 x 50amp/120v legs? Does the magnum sit on one leg limiting it to 30 amps?

    Thanks!
    I am no electrician, so please confirm anything I say here, but I believe the 50 amp wiring is actually 2 x 30amp. I took the 50 amp wiring into my Magnum 2800, and split the hots into the two 30 amp input circuits. I wired hot 1 into one of the 30amp circuits and hot 2 into the other one. I did the same thing for the output line between the inverter and the fuse panel. After a couple camping runs, this has worked wonderfully.

    Another thing that confirmed this for me was to learn that a 50amp to 30amp conversion cable simply feeds just one of the hots to the 30amp side.

    Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
    2017 Reflection 29RS, towed by 2013 F-350 Diesel King Ranch, Crew Cab, short Bed, with Andersen Ultimate 2 Hitch
    540w Solar, 4x6 Trojan T105's, MS2812 Magnum Energy inverter, Bogart Engineering TM-2030-RV and SC-2030
    WeBoost 4G-M cell booster, DirecTV portable

  9. #19
    ThruHauler
    Guest
    Can everything in your rig run off the Magnum? My installer is recommending a sub-panel with only the wall sockets, entertainment and microwave able to run on battery. But won't I want the power assist for air conditioner starts and such if I'm plugged into limited power?

  10. #20
    ThruHauler
    Guest
    And that said, I am getting the automatic generator start too. So say I'm parked in my friends driveway plugged into 15 amps and a limit set of 12 so I don't throw the breaker. If the air conditioners (2x15k btu) were set up to receive power assist through the inverter, would I turn off the cabin temperature driven automatic generator start? But then if the batteries were drawn down enough to trigger the AGS to start the generator, but I still have the extension cord to the porch plugged in, does it handle that or do I burn my RV down?

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