2800BH tires rubbing

[Thorvald]

Ok back from camping and did some measurements when on the road. My distance from the inside of the coupler to the ground is 21 inches when the main frame (not the drop frame) is level (equal distances at front and back).

According to my manual for my Husky Centerline TS, I would need to subtract 8 inches from this to get my lower bolt hold on my hitch (when mounted inverted), that gives 13 inches.... There is no hole that low on the hitch when mounted. So I suspect that is another clue that my trailer has settled on it’s springs (still hypothesizing here).

Could someone with a 2800BH measure their inside couple length to the ground when level? Curious to see the difference.

GD needs me to setup appointment with my dealer but they are over 100km away so that will be a chore. Long weekend coming up so I’m sure they will be closed service wise, will see what I can do next week.

Attached are pictures of my springs when frame is level in driveway:








Cheers
Tim

[Cate&Rob]

Some thoughts on springs . . . and there is no “new” information here . . . all of this is pulled from other posts on this forum.
A couple of years ago, several of us on this forum put our heads together to figure out how to get our Reflection 303RLS 5th wheels to ride level side-to-side.

The leaf springs on all our trailers have a free “arch height” of about 3”. They reach their designated load carrying ability at an arch height of about 1.5”. To know if your suspension is really overloaded, you need to measure this arch height. It is not difficult to do.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...ng-Arch-Height

The other major component of this is static clearance between the top of the tire and the body above. GDRV has stated that this should be 4” with an unloaded trailer. There have been various discussions about how much is enough, when loaded. My opinion is that less than 2 1/2” could get you into contact problems.

There are two ways to solve a clearance problem. One is a stronger spring and the other is spacer blocks between the spring and the axle. If your spring arch is in the right range but you do not have sufficient tire clearance, spacer blocks will solve this without giving the trailer a rougher ride. If your spring arch is too flat (compressed to less than 1.5” loaded arch height), you need stronger springs (and maybe spacer blocks as well).

There is much discussion on this forum about how we levelled and improved the trailer ride on our 303s by matching the springs to the load carried. This meant stronger springs on the left side with original springs on the right. LCI would not buy into this . . . but the basic engineering and the results prove that it works as intended.

More discussion about this on these threads . . . and there are others.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...ht=Spring+Arch
https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...pring+problems

Tim - In your pictures, what I think I see is sufficient spring arch (needs to be confirmed) and marginal tire clearance. Upgrading one spring size will only increase your static ride height by less than 1/2” but that will get you to at least 2 1/2” static clearance with reserve spring strength to reduce upward axle travel. I would suggest measuring spring arch on both sides to know whether you need to change all four springs or just one side.

Just my 2 cents worth . . .

Rob

[Cate&Rob]

Moving this discussion . . .

This thread was originally posted in the manufacturer's section. Since they have not responded (recently) and this discussion has drawn in many different theories and opinions, I am going to move it to "Axles, Brakes and Suspension".

If someone has a specific question for GDRV on this topic please post it in the manufacturer's section.

Rob

[MidwestCamper]

Ok back from camping and did some measurements when on the road. My distance from the inside of the coupler to the ground is 21 inches when the main frame (not the drop frame) is level (equal distances at front and back).

According to my manual for my Husky Centerline TS, I would need to subtract 8 inches from this to get my lower bolt hold on my hitch (when mounted inverted), that gives 13 inches.... There is no hole that low on the hitch when mounted. So I suspect that is another clue that my trailer has settled on it’s springs (still hypothesizing here).

Could someone with a 2800BH measure their inside couple length to the ground when level? Curious to see the difference.

GD needs me to setup appointment with my dealer but they are over 100km away so that will be a chore. Long weekend coming up so I’m sure they will be closed service wise, will see what I can do next week.

Attached are pictures of my springs when frame is level in driveway:








Cheers
Tim

Tim,
I was recently at a dealer and found three Imagine trailers there with the same tire clearance. This is a design issue where there is not enough clearance when the spring compresses in addition to articulation at the equalizer. The result is floor contact with the tire. As Rob and others have covered in detail there are fixes for these issues. In my case I replaced my springs with OEM 1750lb springs and installed 1 inch spring blocks, a MORryde CRE3000 and wet bolts.

[Thorvald]

Tim,
I was recently at a dealer and found three Imagine trailers there with the same tire clearance. This is a design issue where there is not enough clearance when the spring compresses in addition to articulation at the equalizer. The result is floor contact with the tire. As Rob and others have covered in detail there are fixes for these issues. In my case I replaced my springs with OEM 1750lb springs and installed 1 inch spring blocks, a MORryde CRE3000 and wet bolts.

Thanks Jim, I’m actually looking at the Morryde CRE3000 now as apparently it will add approx 3/4 ride height. However by their fitment guide they need a minimum of 3 inches of tire to floor clearance (which I don’t have) hence the spacer block.

I see that Dexter makes a kit for adding spaces but it adds more than 1 inch, I think it was 2 and change added lift.

Question though:

How come you replaced the springs? Were the originals not rated at 1750? Or was it just easier to get new springs with the 1 inch spacer block?

Cheers
Tim

[Thorvald]

The leaf springs on all our trailers have a free “arch height” of about 3”. They reach their designated load carrying ability at an arch height of about 1.5”. To know if your suspension is really overloaded, you need to measure this arch height. It is not difficult to do.
https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...ng-Arch-Height
Rob

Thanks Rob, just did a quick measurement and with the trailer not level in the drive way (sloping driveway but trailer level) I was very close to 1.5 inches on the passengers side (the one with the most contact). I’ll make the trailer parallel to the ground later and take proper measurements with photos. So I might be right on the edge.

I took a new photo of my wheel well and it looks like the damage has gotten worse:



Going to email Dexter today with my axle info and see about the spacer blocks. Funny I had to do the same thing on my last Jayco 17z, trailer was too damn low and the WDH bars hit on everything.

Then I’ll add the Morryde CR3000 and wet bolt kit just for piece of mind.

Cheers
Tim

[Thorvald]

Ok strike one... Dexter’s lift kits are for Torsion axle only, not for spring kits. So now I’d need to find a spring shop that would install blocks and warranty them... doubt I’ll have much luck on that but will see what I can do.

If the CR3000 adds 3/4 than that would at least get me closer to 3 inches of clearance.

Cheers
Tim

[Cate&Rob]

Tim - One of the best suppliers of quality spacer block kits is just down the road from us. Even our American friends buy from these guys .https://www.trailerblocks.com/collec...ing-tie-plates Installing these is not a difficult job. There are details in posts by TucsonJim, Poppys5thwheel and others on this forum.

Rob

[Thorvald]

Thanks Rob, depending on what the dealer says etc, I'll likely go that route. Didn't realize they were in Ontario lol!

Cheers
Tim


EDIT: Gotta admit, those are very expensive "aluminum blocks"... However I assume some serious work has been put into them and the kits.

[Thorvald]

Well Rob, it took trailerblocks a week to answer my email, then they indicated they don't allow local pickup and they only ship from a warehouse. Then I checked the price with expedited shipping and they want $84 extra for express post with Canada post... Who are famous for taking over a week no matter how much you pay. I can't believe they don't offer next day/same day UPS/FedEx/Purolator (In Canada at least).

This ends up being basically $600 for a tandem set of 1" aluminum blocks with U bolts. Something smells fishy here, that is a pretty expensive set of blocks and U bolts but until I do more research I can't be sure. I know the kit to raise from Jayco with Dexter Axles using the Dexter factory kit was only $100 CDN and was able to pick it up. It was actually some pretty impressive powdercoated C channel steel with all hardware to mount and instructions... as well as warrantied by Dexter.

Same kit on eTrailer is $64 USD: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...71-707-01.html

What is the deal with these blocks that they want do much money for them? I don't mind paying for quality but it if takes them a week to answer if I have any issues, I'm not impressed. I tried calling their phone number but it gives a voicemail stating you have to use the website or email. I suspect this is a "side business" for a retired couple or something.

Oh well, they seem to be the "only" option available.

Thanks
Tim

EDIT: Yes I must be missing something there, Stengel blocks are $15.20 USD each for 1 inch blocks... Trailerblocks are $152 for a set so $76 per block?

https://www.stengelbros.net/SPA-1-Sp...-_p_17599.html