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  1. #1
    Setting Up Camp
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    2800BH tires rubbing

    2016 Imagine 2800BH. So crawled under the trailer for other issues and noticed that all four of the tires had rubbed on the bottom of the body. Took it into the dealership, they said that they ordered new heavier duty springs to fix the problem. Has anyone else seen this on their 2800BH? We were not overloaded and not off-road, so I assume that maybe they rubbed on a parking lot entrance, not sure, but still not cool. Looking at the springs…they all look flat. Any other trailers, not necessarily camping trailers, all have a curve to them. Kids were following on our trip to Yellowstone and said that the trailer seems to bounce a lot compared to our previous one, so may look into installing shocks too. Hopefully they are not hitting while traveling on the highway! But if they did, then that could explain early tire failure/blowouts, meaning that the tires hitting the body at 60MPH would cause the blowout. Not defending the Chinese tires but…

  2. #2
    Setting Up Camp
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    Haven't checked the weights yet, but have the same amount of gear that we held in our previous 2006 24' TT. Not really that much...portable propane BBQ, ground mats, leveling blocks, all plastic dishes and utensils, etc. On carrying water...that's another issue/post in plumbing...the water siphons out by the time we get anywhere. Doesn't feel heavier when towing. Will have to look into the weights, though if we're at the limit already, then GD needs to build the Imagines a bit better. Our 2006 had curved springs, bigger propane tanks and smaller tires and never had a problem with tires or suspension and the same gear...sometimes more for long trips and kids. No kids now, but had to have the bunkhouse to get the outside kitchen. Now, I'm curious of the weights and ratings on the old trailer, sold it to a family member so I guess I'll get him to weigh it.

  3. #3
    Setting Up Camp
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    Found the specs on our old 2006...Base weight 4633lbs, Max limit...6140lbs. So about 1500lbs cargo capacity. Never actually weighed it though. It was a 24' bunkhouse, no slide and same gear that we carry now.

  4. #4
    Manufacturer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave and Cindy View Post
    Found the specs on our old 2006...Base weight 4633lbs, Max limit...6140lbs. So about 1500lbs cargo capacity. Never actually weighed it though. It was a 24' bunkhouse, no slide and same gear that we carry now.
    Hi @Dave and Cindy,

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  5. #5
    Setting Up Camp
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    Update...Got the trailer back from the dealer today, they installed new springs. They all have an arch to them, each leaf looks thicker and now the trailer sits almost 3 inches taller. You can actually see the tops of the tires behind the flares. Still have not weighed the setup yet but according to my specs...GVWR--7700lbs, UVW--5868, and Cargo weight max---1792lbs (all numbers posted on the tire and loading information sticker). I don't think that we are anywhere near GVWR, but we'll see. I think we just got a bad set of springs...as I said earlier, the existing springs were all flat with no arch. By the way, my manufacture date is 7/31/15.

  6. #6
    New Member
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    Good to know. I have the same problem with my 2017 2800BH. I contacted customer support.

  7. #7
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Norton View Post
    Good to know. I have the same problem with my 2017 2800BH. I contacted customer support.
    This is becoming a sore subject with me since I have had tire contact on my 2600RB on the right kitchen side. The contact looks light where I've been struggling if this happened over the road or on a dry camp that we visit that is not too rough but it is uneven.
    I called Lippert who was gracious in sending me all new springs which I installed. This raised the right side by just under an inch. They would not send me a spring upgrade to a heavier weight, where they said Grand Design would need to approve this. When I asked them for an approved method of raising the rig, Lippert recommended the correct trac system but I am not comfortable in lengthening my hangers due to the potential of increased lateral motion. There is a video on youtube showing this add on in action. Lippert also mentioned Grand Design specifies what chassis they want where Lippert does not design the chassis to the RV but rather GD designs the RV and specifies the chassis. So this is either a materials issue with the springs or a poor spring choice based on the mass of the TT and the allowable travel of the suspension. When I contacted Grand Design, they informed me that the frame will not handle the additional loads of heavier springs. So I still have no solid answer as to how they would design a unit that will allow the tires to contact the wood floor before the axle stops at the frame. Since this time, I have installed Goodyear Endurance tires where I lost a half inch of fender well clearance which is now at 3 inches. To regain the 1/2 and allow for and additional 1/2 inch, I'm installing 1 inch lift blocks, a MORryde wet bolt kit, CRE3000 and bump stops. This I hope will better protect the rig and maintain the OE springs that GD and Lippert have advised me not to move away from. Now want to talk bent spring hangers that are too wide for the OE spring bolts?
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  8. #8
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    MidwestCamper - I note that you are picking up on some really old posts. The springs all have a free arch height of 3”. They reach their spec load height at about 1.5” arch height. So, changing a load range is going to lift the trailer . . . maybe 1/2” . . . at the price of a rougher ride. There is no way that changing springs increases the ride height by 3” as referenced in the first post . . . the geometry just doesn’t work that way. I think you are on the right track keeping the original rate springs and adding spacer blocks.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

  9. #9
    Big Traveler
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cate&Rob View Post
    MidwestCamper - I note that you are picking up on some really old posts. The springs all have a free arch height of 3”. They reach their spec load height at about 1.5” arch height. So, changing a load range is going to lift the trailer . . . maybe 1/2” . . . at the price of a rougher ride. There is no way that changing springs increases the ride height by 3” as referenced in the first post . . . the geometry just doesn’t work that way. I think you are on the right track keeping the original rate springs and adding spacer blocks.

    Rob
    Rob, yes I have read many posts on this issue and having gone though this myself really brings it home. I had asked Lippert and GD for approval on two possible solutions, since I do not want to void my structural warranty. One, a stronger spring to avoid the yielding of the material and to avoid bottoming out. Neither will approve this. Next I asked for an approved method do raise the coach where Lippert advised the correct trac system which will raise the coach by two inches. This would buy me more 2 more inches of fender well clearance but would not avoid yielding the material of the spring since there are no bump stops. I also do not feel comfortable with the longer hanger solution. I've installed OE springs, and will raise the TT by one inch with the addition of MORryde suspension upgrades to help reduce shock and bump stops to prevent bottoming of the springs. I agree with your analysis on a stronger spring on one side and if I lose height on the replacement springs on the kitchen side, I will be going that route and will be out of warranty by then. Not sure where the 3 inches came from.
    MidwestCamper

    Jim & Dawn
    Near Milford, Michigan
    2017 Imagine 2600RB
    2015 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab 4x4

  10. #10
    Site Sponsor Cate&Rob's Avatar
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    Hi MidwestCamper - I know your frustration with looking for guidance from LCI or GDRV on what suspension changes to make, to solve a problem. I experienced the same thing when developing my plan for stronger springs on the heavy side. They would not endorse my plan either.

    If your trailer rides level, I think spacer blocks is the way to go. If it is tilted to one side, I think stronger springs on the heavy side only is the way to go (despite no acknowledgement from the manufacturer on this solution).

    If you can measure "loaded arch height" on your old and new springs, this will really help to document what is going on. This was how I learned that my heavy side springs were deforming but the light side springs were just fine and did not need to be changed.
    https://www.mygrandrv.com/fo...ng-Arch-Height

    My comment WRT "3 inches" ties back to post #5 of this thread where the claim was made that changing springs resulted in a 3" higher ride height. I don't believe this is possible.

    Rob
    Cate & Rob
    2015 Reflection 303RLS

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