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Thread: Underbelly Insulation
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12-02-2016, 10:23 AM #11
Hi John,
This idea was that a one-way "duckbill" valve could be put on the underside of the low spots in the coroplast to automatically let out any water that got in there, without being an entry point for underbody spray. See attached picture . . . these are common on above-the-waterline drains on boats. (I don't know if anyone actually tried this on a trailer)
This actually ties to another current discussion on what happens when the under floor insulation gets wet for any reason. If the insulation were waterproof and valves like these let out any accumulated water, the whole design would be more durable.
http://www.mygrandrv.com/for...-line-freezing
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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12-03-2016, 11:24 AM #12
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Thanks Rob, I'm going to try it, seen too many YouTube water dumping videos to not try something ahead of a mess.
John, Susan & Luke
2015 Reflection 303 RLS #867
Bakersfield, CA
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12-03-2016, 02:32 PM #13
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I too am going to try the duckbill scuppers.
One of the things I wondered about while having the belly off was this partially a condensation issue? Front half of the rig was wet under the foil/bubble insulation.
As to replacing the insulation if the local Home Depot had had rock wool that would have been my choice. Rock wool is supposed to shed water and not become a soggy mess like fiberglass.Colan and Marilyn Arnold
Des Moines, IA - kind of, on the road full time.
Currently in Durango, Colorado
Momentum 350M originally, now a 397TH
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12-03-2016, 03:16 PM #14
Colan,
I think that rock wool insulation tip is a really good idea !
I have never used this material before, so did a little research http://nationalstonewool.com/products/mw-vs-fiberglass/
Exactly as you say . . . this would be a far better insulation material for the underbelly.
RobCate & Rob
2015 Reflection 303RLS
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12-03-2016, 09:42 PM #15
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With the insulation held up to the floor any leaks with an insulation that would not soak up the water would be a very good thing.
Backpacker and tent camper all my life, including BSA as a kid and adult.
Motorcycle trips across the USA with a tent - 1978 to Present.
02-10-2005 - 2002 F350 SWD PSD and 2003 Citation 10'8S mostly for Crater Lake Ski Patrol.
10-29-2015 - 2016 Grand Design 380TH. It's HUGE compared to a camper.
10-19-2018 - traded truck for a 2016 Ram 3500 DRW Laramie CC 4 X 4 Long Box.
03-16-2019 - Traded Momentum for a New 2018 374TH-R Solitude
FULL TIME RV'er Nov 2021
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02-21-2018, 09:57 AM #16
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like others, I had a lot of water in my underbelly and need to replace the fiberglass insulation. Can anyone tell me what R value is used by Grand Design? It appears they state the entire floor system is R-45 but that includes the foil and the floor itself.
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02-21-2018, 11:17 AM #17
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I think Grand Design uses 2 inch thick insulation. I used 2, 4, or 6 depending upon the location. Under the tanks I used 2 inch. Any thicker makes the coroplast bulge. I used the 6 inch in wide open areas.
Colan and Marilyn Arnold
Des Moines, IA - kind of, on the road full time.
Currently in Durango, Colorado
Momentum 350M originally, now a 397TH
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02-21-2018, 01:07 PM #18
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Great. Thank you.
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02-21-2018, 10:02 PM #19
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I purchased an Imagine (first RV purchase) and when I went to pick it up it had water dripping out of a hole in the underbelly plastic in the front that covered the OSB (not the coloplast). I was upset and blew a mental fuse but the dealer taped some places and said it probably happened during delivery on wet highways and said that this typical with all manufacturers and good luck to find anything better. Then I saw all of the gaps between coloplast and the frame in some places and figured that not only water but also mice could get in there. There were places where they shot some expanding foam between frame and coloplast but those places seemed like it only made the gaps worse. Dealer said good luck finding anything better. So I plan on taping the gaps where stuff can get in and maybe drilling some small holes to let coloplast drain so I'll know if there is water problem in there for whatever reason. In the end, after looking at other manufactures, I came to the same conclusion, good luck on finding anything better. It seems that no one has figured out how to seal enclosed underbelly RVs very well, at least on the ones I have looked at. I have seen on some forums where people said they preferred non-enclosed underbellies so you can easily see what is going on, but obviously that wouldn't work very well for cold weather camping.
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