Electrical Mod -- Feedback Requested

**howson** · 02-24-2019, 05:19 PM

As expected, the batteries will fit just right in the area just behind the original battery tray. This first picture is stitched together so it looks funny, but it gives you an idea. If you can't tell, the batteries will sit on their side with the terminals facing the front (towards the camera).

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What I'm planning is using the same "L" steel used to make the original battery tray. I'll use two of them so the batteries have a rock-solid platform. The rear bar will be far enough away from the back vertical frame member so I can sneak a strap around the back to secure each battery in place.

To the left of the first battery on the curb end of the trailer there is a plug in the frame. That could be where the AC wire gets routed to the hutch. I am going to pull down the coroplast tomorrow and take a look. (The plug on the street side is already being used for OEM wires.) If you look closely at the picture you'll see the plug.

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The Victron Multiplus 12/3000/80 inverter is larger than envisioned. It will fit, but glad it's not any bigger. I *think* I'll put it on the curb side, near the front. The side facing the camera is the "bottom" of the inverter and where I'll run the wires. The Lynx Distributor, fuse, and shunt will be placed in some order (still need to work on that) working towards the street side. The good thing about this config is the heavy gauge DC wires are going to be very short since everything will be in this relatively small space.

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If you have any thoughts or suggestions I'd appreciate the inputs...

-Howard

**Cate&Rob** · 02-24-2019, 05:30 PM

Hi Howard,

I am just catching up to this thread. This looks like a great use of otherwise empty space. With all the things potentially going on in this compartment, I would think that you would want a hinged door to check on things.

Rob

**howson** · 02-24-2019, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by Cate&Rob

Hi Howard,

I am just catching up to this thread. This looks like a great use of otherwise empty space. With all the things potentially going on in this compartment, I would think that you would want a hinged door to check on things.

Rob

I'm going to try and duplicate your "bomber door" (or something to that effect) so I can access the area when necessary. I need to talk with AMSolar about ventilation and moisture control, too. I'm concerned that once I seal up this area there may be unanticipated issues--I want to address them during the construction phase if there's a chance I'll run into a problem.

**Country Campers** · 02-24-2019, 06:46 PM

Howard
If you are going to span from one frame rail to the other I would use at least 1/4" steel. I know these batteries are light weight but they mat want to sag in the middle.

Brian

**Nomado** · 02-25-2019, 06:01 AM

Originally Posted by howson

I'm not sure. Initially the plan is to have all the cables the same length. Haven't quite gotten to that level of detail with Garret (yet).

Attached is an article on cell balancing for multiple batteries. Keep in mind this applies more so to flooded batteries and not as much of an issue with Lithium but I was concerned when deciding on how to hook up my batteries. I reached out to Battleborn and they said the way I configured (Method 2 shown in link) would not be an issue with the BMS. I would just ask Garrett if it is an issue to have different size battery cables since that might happen with using the Lynx.

Also, great planning and making the boxes is a great idea to make sure it all fits!

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con...2b80LK-aokHDKk

**howson** · 02-25-2019, 08:13 AM

Originally Posted by Nomado

Attached is an article on cell balancing for multiple batteries. Keep in mind this applies more so to flooded batteries and not as much of an issue with Lithium but I was concerned when deciding on how to hook up my batteries. I reached out to Battleborn and they said the way I configured (Method 2 shown in link) would not be an issue with the BMS. I would just ask Garrett if it is an issue to have different size battery cables since that might happen with using the Lynx.

Also, great planning and making the boxes is a great idea to make sure it all fits!

http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con...2b80LK-aokHDKk

That is a fascinating article--thank you! Everyone on this forum with expensive batteries should read it.

Do you agree that the Lynx Distributor is "Method 3"? It will balance the batteries AND give me a way to disconnect just one should I want (or need) to do so.

I'm going to ask Garret about the length of the cables--I'm starting with the assumption the cables from the batteries to the Distributor should be the same length.

**Nomado** · 02-25-2019, 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by howson

Do you agree that the Lynx Distributor is "Method 3"? It will balance the batteries AND give me a way to disconnect just one should I want (or need) to do so.

I do believe it would be "Method 3" for the Lynx Distributor. It is just a good article and something to be aware of when hooking up multiple batteries.

**howson** · 02-25-2019, 02:15 PM

Here's what I hope is the last planning document for my system. I've sent off the attached PDF to Garret Towne at AMSolar so we'll see what he has to say about my questions. (They are in red.)

As I told him in the email I sent to him, the third page in the PDF (and the first picture below) is a little overwhelming because it shows everything at once. Subsequent pages break it down by system. Not a professional schematic by any means, but I think it conveys what I intend to do and where.

The install diagram is based on v12 of the system diagram. (There's a copy of the diagram in the PDF.)

For anyone who may read this now or in the future--this is an unverified and untested system.

As always, I covet your feedback on any area of this project. I am still learning as I go!

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**SouthTX** · 02-25-2019, 02:44 PM

Originally Posted by howson

Here's what I hope is the last planning document for my system. I've sent off the attached PDF to Garret Towne at AMSolar so we'll see what he has to say about my questions. (They are in red.)

As I told him in the email I sent to him, the third page in the PDF (and the first picture below) is a little overwhelming because it shows everything at once. Subsequent pages break it down by system. Not a professional schematic by any means, but I think it conveys what I intend to do and where.

The install diagram is based on v12 of the system diagram. (There's a copy of the diagram in the PDF.)

For anyone who may read this now or in the future--this is an unverified and untested system.

As always, I covet your feedback on any area of this project. I am still learning as I go!

Howard, I think you and I had different goals in our respective systems so there are substantial differences, but a couple of little things I noticed were the batteries might take up less space if mounted on end. Might even be easier to handle that way. Just depends on how much height you have to play with. Also, I used 6/3 S00W wire for my AC distribution. I wasn't aware of some of the NEC requirements when I installed it, but it is entirely visiable so that shouldn't be a problem and all the components are bonded so I didn't need a fourth conductor.

I still haven't gotten my system out on the road so I'm reserving judgment, but my driveway testing makes me think that 100 amps (actually 80) will do me as I've never not been able to run my generator the next morning. The quick (and complete) recharging is the principal advantage I see to lithium and I plan to take advantage of it. I can run lights and TV overnight with 100 and while I may add another 100 to allow some MW use or something, where does it stop?

I realize that it is against forum rules to suggest someone NOT spend money, but it is something to think about as it is easy enough to just make provisions for additional batteries.

Overall, you're going to have a nice system and happy wife.

**howson** · 02-25-2019, 02:45 PM

So I overlooked an important (and in hindsight obvious) part of the circuit. I am not certain how/where the existing DC circuits tie in to the new circuit. The existing wiring runs from the battery to underneath the trailer, just behind the front frame. (Same area I'll use for the new system.)

I also don't know what it will take to remove the existing WFCO charger. (No, I am not going to leave it as a "backup". Everything not needed must go due to weight considerations.)