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04-24-2019, 06:24 PM #191
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It Really Is Done!
I know it is obsessive and unnecessary--but I had to replace the AC wires. Now the inverter looks like it is supposed to and the SmartATS' wiring matches the schematic on the back cover. Much easier to get those 6/2 wires through the inverter's strain relief, too! I don't claim that everything I do makes sense.
So here's the setup. The first picture is how the console looks from inside the bedroom. Note credit goes to the DW for all the covering and finish work!
Here's the underside. Note I rotated the batteries and installed the busbars @TucsonJim pointed out. I really like how it turned out. So much cleaner than the first layout. Thanks again to Gene @(gbkims) for confirming they'd work with the amperage rating of my inverter.
Edit: A careful observer will note the RJ-12 cable connected to the BMV-712 is not the stock cable. See TucsonJim's thread for more info.
Here's looking in from the pass-thru door. Note I still need to make a cover (tomorrow) and a new panel for the Nautilus (also tomorrow).
Again, many thanks to everyone that contributed knowledge or encouragement. What a project! As promised I'll have a summary done within a week.Last edited by howson; 04-26-2019 at 05:40 AM. Reason: Updated picture.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-26-2019, 05:48 AM #192
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Weight from Project
200 lbs. That's how much was added to my trailer due to this project as measured on a CAT scale. Note I used the 10 link numbers for comparison to the 9 Apr numbers as there are minor inconsistencies in GCWR.
On 9 Apr I emptied the camper of everything and anything that wasn't nailed, screwed, or too cumbersome to remove. I then towed the camper to the CAT scale.
Yesterday, 25 Apr, I towed it back to the same scale. Nothing was added or removed outside of items associated with the electrical project documented in this thread. I also ensured the fuel level in the truck was the same (topped off both times just prior to weighing).
While I was at the CAT scale I decided to see what effect changing the number of links on my Blue Ox setup had on tongue weight. Quite interesting to see how the weight shifts around when the links are changed.
Any questions...fire back.
-Howard2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-26-2019, 06:48 PM #193
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Last Pics!
2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-30-2019, 08:24 AM #194
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04-30-2019, 01:40 PM #195
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Summary!
Edit: V2 uploaded 1 May. Added commentary about wiring in the SmartATS and added a few more resources & references from this thread that were overlooked.
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As promised, here's the summary. It is not exhaustive by any definition. Any questions, fire away.
-Howard
P.S. If you spot technical omissions or errors *please* let me know and I will get them corrected ASAP.
Last edited by howson; 05-01-2019 at 08:14 PM.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-30-2019, 04:47 PM #196
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FWIW cables are called out and identified by the number of insulated conductors, so a #6 romex with 3 insulated conductors and a bare grounding conductor is call a 6/3. A cord like 6 gauge SO cord with an insulated black, white and green is called a 6/3 because you have 3 insulated conductors.
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04-30-2019, 05:45 PM #197
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Then I think(?) the wires are identified correctly?
The AC wires running from the SmartATS to the Inverter (two separate wires) have one insulated black, one insulated white, and a bare copper wire. This is identified as "6/2" in the drawing. The wire going from the shore power connection (OEM) to the EMS, then to the SmartATS, and then to the circuit breaker panel have one red insulated wire, one black insulated wire, one white insulated wire, and a bare copper wire. These are identified as "6/3".
In hindsight I should have used 6/3 with a black, white, and green wire between the inverter and SmartATS. What I did instead was cover the long strands of bare copper that cross the solenoids inside the SmartATS with heat shrink and made sure the ground wires were tucked far away from the metal contact points where the hot red and black wires mount to the contactor. (I didn't like the look of those long runs of bare wire inside the SmartATS.)
I never considered their might be another wire bundle called "6/3" that consisted of an insulated white, black and green. Thanks for clearing up that mystery.Last edited by howson; 04-30-2019 at 07:00 PM.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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04-30-2019, 06:47 PM #198
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Just to be clear it is not a cable intended for house wiring, it is a cord with stranded conductors, not solid. The other difference is that in the cord all conductors will be the same gauge (except mobile home feeder) and in the Romex cable the grounding wire will be smaller than the insulated conductors starting with #8 conductors as they follow table 250-122 for sizing. At one time Romex was manufactured with a green insulated solid grounding conductor but I have not seen any of that in years.
If you look closely at the black cords on your power tools you will see they are stamped 16/3, 14/3 etc because all 3 conductors are insulated and permitted to carry current.
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05-02-2019, 11:46 AM #199
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How Long Do the Batteries Last?
As I re-read this thread while assembling the summary I noted the expectations in post #1 . The first expectation was:
a) It will power the RV refrigerator using electricity while towing.
So how long will it last without shore or a trickle charge from the truck?
Below are the results after 4 hours of testing. These are the pre-conditions:
1) Refrigerator was ran for >24 hours to ensure it was cooled down to normal operating temperature.
Edit: As I found out later I should have fully stocked the refrigerator. I didn't, so the results are probably skewed (negatively).
2) The kitchen and dinette slides are in, mimicking the conditions during towing.
3) Nothing is running in the trailer outside of the normal parasitic loads, including the microwave's clock (since it is power by 120vAC). All vents and windows are closed.
4) No additional charge is provided from any source. (Not typical, since the truck will provide a trickle during towing. That test is next!)
I'll update this later today after a minimum of 8 hours of testing.
-Howard
START
+4 Hour Mark
Last edited by howson; 05-06-2019 at 08:48 AM.
2017 Ford F-350 DRW 6.7L Platinum
2019 315RLTS (purchased 16 Jul 18 from Campers Inn RV in Byron, GA)
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05-02-2019, 01:23 PM #200
Howard,
Do you have any idea about how much charge to expect from the tow vehicle in terms of alternator output to the trailer and charge duration based on that output/input?
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkHolger & Corinne
Granite Bay, CA
2019 Solitude 310gk w/goosebox conversion
towed by 2012 Ford F450 Lariat crew cab 4x4
Bilstein shocks, Air-ride air bags
2 independent on-board Viair compressors w/2.5 gal. air tank
Boston Whaler 21' Outrage when not towing 5'er
310GK Bounce When Towing
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